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Beauty industry veteran Melanie Dir is behind some of the coolest creative you've seen at Sephora (Isamaya Beauty, Pat McGrath Labs, Simi Haze...), but grew up steeped in Perfume as the daughter of master perfumer at Mane, Claude Dir. This past year, she launched her own brand GAMINE, championing a global, gritty, and very tactile side of fine fragrance — the brand's three initial fragrances launched in brutalist-looking rubber-sheathed rectagular bottles called "bricks," rubber and rope hiking-inspired keychain solids, and most recently, in concentrated perfume oils dubbed "microdoses." The scents themselves are bold, modern takes on French perfumery with gasoline, rubber, concrete, metal, and latex notes blended with chypres, florals, and earthy woods. Melanie talks to us about what it's like being trained in perfumery as a kid, growing up in the lab, and her roundabout career in the beauty industry that brought her right back to perfume.
[What we smell like today: Maison D'etto Pinehurst, Outside In Earth After Rain]
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We have a post-spooky episide this week, in which we are smelling a whole bunch of new smells this week — some new to the world, some newly unembargoed, and some new to us (including but not limited to Dedcool Mocha Magic, Merit New Wave, Jil Sander Sesame, and Commodity's Spice trio).
Also, Tynan is speaking on a panel at ScentXplore next week. If you're in NYC and headed to the trade show, put it on your calendar. And Sable is going to Japan and Shanghai later this month, so if you have any recommendations for places to stay and things to smell, hit us up in the DMs.
[What we smell like today: Dedcool Mocha Magic, Jil Sander Sesame]
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Delina is a monoymous name that anyone across PerfumeTok can clock as THE GIRL. As one of the inaugural frgrances that's helped create the moniker PerfumeTok, she's introduced a new generation of fragheads to Parfums de Marly, a fragrance brand that's around since 2009, inspired by the Château de Marly, a private 18th-century retreat built by King Louis XV. We have Yvan Jacqueline, president of the Americas for Parfums de Marly, to catch up with a brand that continues releasing exquisite fragrances, knockout after knockout, beyond but not in spite of the digital sphere that's brought it into a new light.
[What we smell like today: Haeze Petal Pusher, Parfums de Marly Dorval]
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We welcome Dana Steinfeld, chief innovation officer, blue sky & founder of Anecdotes By Artists, to chat about how beauty incubators bring fragrance brands to life on a mass scale — from Being Frenshe and Fine'ry at Target and Ulta — to now the debut of Anecdotes By Artists launching in Sephora.
The new fragrance line champions the ambition of the perfumer (Patricia Choux for the inital three launches) to create their own dream fragrances based on their own experiences and imagination.
We also discuss fragrance duping at its Fine'st, DSM-Firmenich's Open Air Artist In Residence event we attended recently, and the otherwise small personal tragedies of our immune systems.
[What we smell like today: Tate 01 by Tae McRae, The Nue Co Moon Rice]
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Yet another episode about everything we don't know and refuse to learn about what's going on in the Internet's fragrance community. Also, a recap of the Laundry Sauce x Arquiste Misfit launch event, a brief construction and deconstruction of what makes a fig scent, a Die Hot re-do, a few new scents we've smelled this week, and a visit to one of those venture-capital-funded bougie wellness contrast therapy sauna/ice plunge places and its scent options.
[What we smell like today: Gucci Flora Gorgeous Orchid Intense, Annick Goutal Voile De Santal]
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We've said over and over that we do not seasonalize scent (and we don't!). But in a world where fragrance is divvied up by what season it's appropriate for, are we just beating the same tired drum? Or are we correct? (We are correct.) Anyway. Here's an episode in which we're fighting for our lives against these allegations as we discuss some upcoming holiday scents from Athena Club, a laundry scent collab with friend of the pod Arquiste, a number of girl smells from the Big Beauty Brands, and Tynan's favorite drugstore lotion.
[What we smell like today: Aerin Amber Musk Pistache, D'Orsay Vanilla Affair]
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Can skin scents be gourmand? Can gourmand be a skin scent? With all these lactonic, milky, musky, mochi, scents now on the market, the answer is becoming, resoundingly: "Sure!" Why not! I don't know! What we do know is the scents that we like of the lot and why. Here are the lot of them (that we could think of when recording) in this episode.
[What we smell like today: Violet Grey Mme. Grey, Nette Mr. Cloud]
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It's the our favorite season: awards. And this marks the 6th annual Smell ya Later awards, brought to you by none other than your hosts and their impeccable taste and expertise to bestow our beloved scents with their flowers in such esteemed categories as:
[What we smell like today: Serviette Immacula, Essential Parfums Ambre Latte]
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PSL season is upon us, which means... so is cuffing season. We're catching up after a late-summer break with a smelling spree on Fall's new fragrance drops, fragrances that were embargoed for weeks and that we're circling back to, and ones we wanted to talk about but, for no discernible reason, haven't yet. The lot includes some confusing irises, sexy cake scents, slutty going-out party girl scents, and cozy gourmands.
[What we smell like today: Nonfiction Santal Cream, D.S. & Durga Ain't That Sweet]
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Nick Axelrod-Welk can be credited with a lot of beauty culture's millennial-charged evolution in the 2010s, having co-founded Into The Gloss, Necessaire, and Homecourt. For his next act, he's launching a beauty house: Contrapposto, beginning with fine fragrance — 3 of them, in fact.
We welcome Nick on this week's episode to talk us through the three scents created with master perfumers Frank Voelkl and Shyamala Maisondieu, the early days from editorial beauty to brand building, and how true luxury involves collaborating with artisans and masters of their own craft, the privilege to create without bounds, and such joyfully detailed nuances that further one's point of view in beauty.
[What we smell like today: Contrapposto Musc Petille, and Melting Flowers]
🌐 Find more info, episodes, and merch at Smellyalater.live
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