On The Scent

We couldn’t do better than quote our brilliant guest Dr Kate Lister’s own bulging

bio: ‘a history sleuth with a passion for uncovering the wild tales of the past. You

might know me from my bestselling books, “A Curious History of Sex” and

“Harlots, Whores, and Hackabouts: A History of Sex for Sale,” where I spill the

tea on our ancestors’ sex lives.’ When she’s not ‘deep-diving into historical

hanky-panky’, Kate hosts the award-winning History Hit podcast, Betwixt the

Sheets, where she and her guests (including an episode with Suzy on historical

fragrances) ‘time-travel through the sauciest and most scandalous stories in

history.’

But there’s something else that Kate’s become passionate about – other than her

eternal quest for the best red lipstick in the world – which makes us love her

even more... In this episode we delve deeper into Kate’s burgeoning olfactory

obsession, which she fully admits was Suzy’s fault, as Kate purchased the

perfumes Suzy spoke about when she was a Betwixt guest – and as we all know,

it’s a slippery scented slope from there.

You can listen to that episode here: https://shows.acast.com/betwixt-the-

sheets/episodes/cleopatra-to-jane-austen-perfumes-of-powerful-women

From Kate’s early experiments with perfumes she and her peers dabbed and

dabbled with in their youth, through to expressing her personality, and finding

fragrances she’s now fallen madly in love with; of course, our conversations took

an historical turn. Among our discussions: what people in the past actually

smelled like (did they stink, as many people assume?), the cultural controls over

what women were supposed to smell of, why we have a deep longing to smell

like forest witches, and a disturbing revelation of how and why Lysol was first

marketed to women.

We think you’ll agree that Kate was an utterly fascinating guest, and we’re

determined to get her back for a Part Two! (Once she’s tried even more of the

fragrance recommendations Suzy is going to send her. Sorry in advance, Kate...

Dr Kate Lister’s Fragrance List:

Body shop Dewberry

Calvin Klein CK Be

Gap Grass (the original)

Gap Heaven (the original)

Rook Forest

Histoire de parfum Encens Roi

Histoire de Parfum 1968

Wales Perfumery Celtic Perfume Discovery Set

Le Labo Santal 33

Stora Skuggan Sylphium

Suzy suggested: Andrea Maack Coven (and has a whole list of other suggestions

to send Kate)

Kate’s favourite novel: Perfume: Story of a Murderer by Patrick Süskind

Suzy also suggested Kate read Smells: A Culturial History of Odours in Early

Modern Times by Robert Muchembled

And Suzy also insisted that Kate (and anyone equally fascinated by the science

and history of our sense of smell) attend next year’s IFRA Fragrance Forum,

which you can find out more about in a forthcoming blog feature at

https://www.onthescentmedia.com/

You can watch videos of previous IFRA lectures on their website:

https://www.ifrauk.org/fragrance-forum-2025

Can you imagine a whole day dedicated to wandering the streets of Paris and smelling their scented wares? Utter olfactory heaven, right?! Well, recently Suzy had a morning and afternoon to do just this, and in this week’s episode, she and Nicola retrace her steps and recall the gorgeous and inspiring Parisian boutiques she managed to visit, reviewing each of the fragrances sniffed and recounting the memories they evoke.

Nicola also adds some personal recommendations of places to stop and watch the world go by and have a spot of lunch - should you be so inclined to follow the perfumed path Suzy took, and which Nicola so fondly remembers during her time of living in Paris.

From exclusive Parisian perfumes not sold anywhere else, to newly launched scents, and the unique architecture and aesthetics that make these houses so worth your time - why not settle down with a (good) coffee and fresh croissant, and indulge in this Parisian fragrant fantasy of an afternoon with On The Scent podcast…

Boutiques Suzy visited during a morning and afternoon in Paris…

Maison Crivelli

314 Rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, France

Designed by founder Thibaud Crivelli alongside Myriam Akl, the space functions as an "agora of perfume" combining personal objects collected ted from his travels, a stunning woven ceiling in the consultation room upstairs, signature terracotta tones, burnt wood curved benches, sculptural totems, and a series of interactive exploration boxes for visitors.

Ex Nihilo

326 Rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris

Designed like a contemporary art gallery combining architecture, lighting, and modern design. The Osmologue is an exclusive in-store technology system that lets visitors personalise and tailor signature fragrances to their individual preferences.

Paris exclusives:

Timeless Lovers

‘An exclusive fragrance created for the Galeries Lafayette, as an ode to Paris, it embodies the city's universal elegance and its romantic spirit.

Paris, the cradle of passion, proudly displays a flaming red color, reminding the typical red lipstick Parisian women wear. The fragrance opens with a spicy Pink Pepper top, then in the heart Cedarwood gently compliments a sensual yet sophisticated floral heart of Rose.

Eventually, Leather & Amber notes with Agarwood bring depth and power to this Parisian love story.’

Paname Palace by Ex Nihilo is a fresh, fruity unisex fragrance released in 2022. The composition opens with a bright and slightly spicy accord of bergamot, cinnamon, and pink pepper, leading into a heart where creamy fig is paired with rose and ylang-ylang. The base blends cedarwood, tonka bean, and vetiver, giving the scent a woody, softly sweet, and earthy drydown. This fragrance is available exclusively in the brand's Paris store.

BDK

Velvet Tonka Extrait

‘Almondy and vanilla-infused, Velvet Tonka is an oriental gourmand creation dusted with icing sugar, built around tonka bean, almond and orange blossom.

Velvet Tonka celebrates the tonka bean, between powdery softness and woody facets, like an oriental indulgence dusted with powdered sugar. Paired with almond and orange blossom, which lend it a luminous facet, it unfolds in a vanilla and honeyed accord, wrapped in amyris wood and tobacco. An addictive, velvety and translucent trail.’

"The scent of tonka bean has always been reminiscent of Proust's madeleines for me. Brazilian tonka bean enriches the perfumer's palette and creations with its warm and sensual almond notes. I am particularly fond of its balmy character and its milky hay aspect, which makes it incredibly addictive." Perfumer Alexandra Carlin

Solferino

310 Rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris

Lumiére d’Automne

‘Inspired by autumn in Paris, where golden light dances across Haussmann façades and trees are dressed in amber hues. This gourmand fragrance unfolds around a roasted chestnut accord,creamy and addictive, blending into a comforting trail of vanilla and sandalwood.’

‘The fragrance opens with notes of angelica, carrot seeds and ambrette, bringing a musky, aromatic breath. At its heart, roasted chestnut reveals a creamy, delicately smoky sweetness, evoking the melting flesh of a chestnut still warm from the fire. In the base, vanilla, benzoin and sandalwood come together to create a warm, enveloping atmosphere. An authentic olfactory stroll, celebrating the understated elegance and beauty of Parisian light in autumn.’

"I wanted to capture the golden light of autumn in Paris and the comforting gourmand emotion of roasted chestnuts, memories that are inseparable from this season."

Yann Vasnier – Givaudan

Acqua di Parma

205 Rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris

Created in collaboration with French designer Dorothée Meilichzon, blending Italian craftsmanship with a Parisian aesthetic. It features signature architectural arches, high-gloss yellow lacquer accents, marmorino walls, and wooden totems shaped like the iconic Colonia perfume bottle. Features an intimate consultation space at the back of the boutique highlighting the Maison's history and iconic collections.

Matiére Premiére

306 Rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris

‘The new 46-square-meter space reflects the brand’s philosophy. Designed by Swedish architects Halleroed, the boutique features limestone, wood, bronze, and handblown blue glass. Therefore, the space feels both refined and rooted in craftsmanship.Inside, visitors find two distinct areas. One displays the full fragrance collection. The other offers a sensory journey through raw ingredients. Because these materials change with the seasons, each visit feels new.’

Fragonard

207 Rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris

‘Founded in 1926 in Grasse, France, Fragonard is a family-run perfumery known for classic floral compositions and distinctive golden aluminum estagnon bottles. A stone's throw from the Jardin des Tuileries and the Place Vendôme, the Saint-Honoré boutique offers in a magnificent setting all the Fragonard ranges: perfumery, cosmetics, fashion, accessories and decorative objects.’

L'Oranger

This is a special anniversary fragrance centered around its signature orange blossom heritage. Created by perfumer Daniela Andrier, it features a bright bouquet of bergamot, Italian green mandarin, and lemon petitgrain at the top, a heart of orange blossom absolute blended with lavender and French cypress, and a soft base of white musks and blond woods.

Orange blossom has been Fragonard's signature scent since 2004, and the brand also celebrated the 2026 centenary with a special heart-shaped, orange-blossom-scented stamp issued by La Poste

Guerlain

356 Rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris

‘Scent creations are stored in a temperature-controlled, UV-protected cellar designed similarly to a fine wine cellar (grand crus) to preserve the integrity of the perfumes. • Visitors can customize iconic bee bottles and flacons by selecting bottle colors, custom text engraving, neck threads, ribbons, and packaging. These custom designs are recorded in a serial-numbered logbook, and the bee bottles can be permanently refilled.’

Maison Diptyque

7 Rue Duphot, 75001 Paris

‘Located in one of the French capital's most prestigious areas, halfway between a boutique and a cultural centre, you'll find iconic Diptyque creations and a range of artistic and cultural experiences, all in an architectural setting reminiscent of a Parisian aesthete's apartment. Designed like a 400m² Parisian aesthete's apartment featuring rooms such as a library, garden, home fragrance salon, bathing salon, and museum/exhibition spaces. Iconic and exclusive Diptyque creations, perfume refills, personalised engraving, gift boxes, recycling services, and rotating artistic or cultural events. Enjoy an exclusive personalised service in Le Salon Privé, where you can turn your inspiration into reality and create an extraordinary made-to-measure extra-large candle. 200 possible combinations of scents and finishes for a singular and precious creation.’

Officine Universelle Buly

45 Rue de Saintonge, 75003 Paris, France (in the Le Marais district)

A 19th-century-style apothecary counter paired with a revival of the historic Grand Café Tortoni, blending fine fragrances with a classic Parisian café experience.

Menu Highlights: Artisanal espresso, homemade hot chocolate, tea, flavored sodas, and French pastries like Tonka bean madeleines and double-raspberry tartlets.

Service Options: Features an indoor marble counter and a traditional street-side service window (à la fenêtre)

Nicola’s recommendations of places for a lunch break during a ‘sniffari’ in Paris:

“It’s Rue st Dominique for the cafes and where I used to live…

Le Jardin de Mademoiselle 69 rue st Dominique is very quirky and cute.

And the market is on Rue Cler

Both in the 7th arr!”

Which of these would you like to visit, we wonder? Are you curious to try any of the exclusives? And where else would you visit…?

Also; Don’t forget to look at Nicola & Alice du Parcq’s Parisian pharmacy must-haves saved on their Instagram highlights - @outspokenbeautynicola & @aliceduparcq respectively.

And finally: the quirky little independent parfumerie Suzy was trying to remember the name of (and didn’t have time to visit on the one day she had in Paris this time) is called Marie Antoinette (how could she forget?!) It’s a delightful bunch perfumery with many differing brands to explore. Located in Le Marais at 5 Rue d'Ormesson, 75004 Paris.

And you can explore online, here: https://www.marieantoinetteparis.fr

5 Rue d'Ormesson, 75004 Paris, France

Fancy a scented tour through unexpected florals (via toasted seeds and cool green leaves), autumnal sunsets in California, walled gardens where a warrior goddess might stroll, impeccably tailored heritage, and a gloriously gilded pop fantasy? Step right this way, because this week Suzy & Nicola are discussing perfumes for taking a calm breath, for making an entrance, for leaning into your own glow, and the pleasure of simply choosing the perfect scent to suit the moment.

They’re also asking whether fragrance can influence mood, considering solid perfume in a new jelly-like form, and finding plenty to discuss in a line-up that moves from poised and polished to maximalist, sensual and gloriously escapist…

Let’s dive in!

Dries Van Noten Velvet Violet

Violet is so often treated as a sugary, powdery floral that it is genuinely refreshing to find it approached from a greener, more fashion-conscious angle. Here, the leaf is the real focus, giving a cool, woody freshness that feels crisp and modern rather than cosmetic. Pink pepper adds a fizzy brightness, then the texture shifts. Toasted sesame is nutty and savoury, barley brings a softly cereal-like warmth, and vetiver with tonka bean leaves a smooth, earthy-gourmand glow on skin.

The effect is tactile and surprisingly chic, with a lovely tension between freshly crushed green leaves and the almost skin-like warmth of toasted seeds. This is violet for those who usually avoid violet, and a quietly unusual choice for anyone who likes their florals with a little friction.

Notes: Violet leaf, pink pepper, sesame, barley, vetiver, tonka bean.

L’Objet Alento

Named for a word that can mean breath, spirit, encouragement and vital energy, this is a perfume conceived as an olfactory pause. The opening is bright with juicy orange, though aldehydes give it a sparkling, airy lift that stops it from becoming too obviously fruity. Orange blossom flows through the heart with a fresh, creamy radiance, before lactones, vanilla, ambergris and white musks soften into a cocooning, close-to-skin finish.

It feels less like a perfume that announces itself and more like a gentle return to oneself. There is a luminous cleanliness to it, but enough milkiness, warmth and musk to make it feel sensual rather than merely fresh. A lovely choice for anyone craving comfort that still has a little glow about it.

Notes: Top: Orange, aldehydes Heart: Orange blossom, fresh floral notes, lactones Base: Vanilla, ambergris, white musks

L’Objet Ojai

This begins with the imagined warmth of a California afternoon, when the air is bright with citrus and green things, and the earth has started to hold onto the day’s heat. Bergamot, a green note and cardamom have a breezy, aromatic freshness, before the mango comes through with a rich, softly tropical glow. Bulgarian rose and saffron lend colour and texture, making the fruit feel more nuanced than merely juicy.

As it settles, patchouli, frankincense and vanilla bring a dusky, ambery depth that is far more soulful than a straightforward fruity floral. It smells like sun on skin, fruit warmed on the branch, and a trace of incense carried through an open window. This is for days when a perfume needs to offer an instant sense of escape, while still feeling grounded and wearable.

Notes: Top: Bergamot, green note, cardamom Heart: Mango, Bulgarian rose, saffron Base: Patchouli, frankincense, vanilla

Boadicea the Victorious Andraste

This is a full, dramatic walled garden scent, where hot brick, flowering vines, crushed greenery and aromatic herbs all seem to release their perfume at once. It has the kind of lavish, maximalist construction that Boadicea the Victorious does so well, combining cool eucalyptus and smoky Lapsang Souchong tea with saffron, thyme and a cascade of flowers. Honeysuckle, wisteria, jasmine and rose create an all-consuming floral richness, while powdered orris, ambrette, leather, fumed woods and vetiver darken the edges.

There is a sense of strength to it, but it does not feel remotely austere. This is floral drama with a leather-lined, resinous, slightly feral undercurrent. It has the atmosphere of a garden after a storm, when everything smells wetter, greener, hotter and more alive. Wear it when you want perfume to feel like a form of armour, a flourish of theatricality, and a reminder to take up rather more space.

Notes: Eucalyptus, Lapsang Souchong tea, saffron, thyme, honeysuckle, wisteria, jasmine, Lady Emma Hamilton rose, citrus notes, orris, ambrette, leather, fumed woods, vetiver.

Huntsman x Truefitt & Hill Cologne

The idea here is understated luxury, and it does that most convincingly by avoiding the kind of brash, traditional barbershop clichés one might expect. The opening has a bright, aromatic polish from bergamot, lemon, cardamom, pink pepper, saffron and elemi, feeling brisk but never sharp. Then the rose and violet arrive, adding soft floral refinement, while tobacco absolute gives the heart a gentle smokiness and richness.

Vanilla pod, guaiac wood, tonka bean and cedarwood create a warm, smooth finish that gives this more depth than a conventional cologne. It is elegant without being fussy, and classic without smelling as though it has been preserved behind glass. The overall impression is of someone beautifully dressed, completely at ease and not remotely interested in making a fuss about it.

Notes:

Top: Bergamot, cardamom, pink pepper, saffron, lemon, elemi

Heart: Damask rose, tobacco absolute, violet, petitgrain

Base: Vanilla pod, guaiac wood, tonka bean, cedarwood

Britney Spears Goddess Fantasy

If fragrance is sometimes about serious artistry, it can also be about joy, memory, confidence and indulging the part of oneself that would like to feel a little more fabulous. This goes wholeheartedly into that mood. Golden mango, mandarin and bergamot bring juicy, sunlit sweetness, while jasmine absolute, Turkish rose and orange blossom give the heart a lush, glamorous floral bloom.

The dry-down is where the Fantasy family resemblance really comes through. Benzoin, vanilla buttercream and gilded musk create a warm, creamy sweetness that feels designed for unapologetic pleasure. It is bright, pretty and noticeably gourmand, but the citrus opening stops it becoming too dense. Think glossy lips, warm skin, golden light and the sheer morale boost of deciding that one is, in fact, the main character.

Notes:

Top: Golden mango, mandarin, bergamot

Heart: Jasmine absolute, Turkish rose, orange blossom

Base: Warm benzoin, vanilla buttercream, gilded musk

Joonbyrd Mood Jellies

These portable water-based solid fragrances are intended as little mood rituals, with each jelly pairing a different scent profile with Bacillus ferment and neuroscience-led wellbeing claims. It is always worth holding such claims lightly, because scent is personal and context-dependent. Yet there is something rather charming about matching fragrance to a desired state of mind, particularly when the format is so playful and easy to carry around.

Bliss

Apple gives this a crisp, cheerful lift, jasmine brings a soft floral bloom, and woods with labdanum provide a mellow, gently resinous warmth. It sounds like the most easy-going of the trio, designed for a comforting, sunny sort of uplift.

Notes: Apple, jasmine, woods, labdanum.

Confidence

Peach and saffron make for a warm, radiant opening, while oak moss and ambroxan lend dry, musky structure. This has the most polished, skin-scent-like profile of the three, with enough fruitiness to feel friendly but enough moss and woody amber character to provide presence.

Notes: Peach, saffron, oak moss, ambroxan.

Peace

Violet and orris create a soft, powdery hush, while vetiver and cedarwood add rooty calm. Cacao brings a subtle darkness and comfort, making this the most introspective choice. It feels made for the end of a busy day, when one wants a small personal pause rather than a big perfume performance.

Notes: Violet, vetiver, cacao, cedarwood, orris.

Also mentioned: Buy the just-published third print issue of On The Scent magazine here!

https://www.onthescentmedia.com/shop

And read the news and blog here:

https://www.onthescentmedia.com/news

What does a fragrance feel like? This week, Suzy Nightingale and Nicola Bonn are

following their noses into the wonderfully tactile world of perfumery, where a scent

can suggest velvet brushing the skin, the smooth swish of nylon, or the crumbly

warmth of freshly sliced cake. There’s oudh as soft as autumnal sun-warmed suede,

a mineral hush reminiscent of earth after rain, and an aromatic breeze that arrives

wind-whipped and bracing before settling into comfort.

These perfumes invite you to think beyond notes alone. Some wrap around you;

others seem to lift you into cool, open air or draw you into the glow of a city after

dark. Join Suzy and Nicola for an episode devoted to sumptuous scents you can

almost reach out and touch...

The fragrances discussed in this episode are:

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Velvet Mood Extrait

Velvet warmed by desert sun is the irresistible idea here. Peach skin, delicate suede

and deep oud wood unfold in a slow, enveloping caress – soft, sensuous and richly

textured, with a sillage that seems to ripple across dunes beneath a starry sky.

D.S. & Durga Ain’t That Sweet?

The blissful comfort of a freshly sliced cake, with no apology for its sweetness.

Cinnamon lends a spicy dusting, fresh floral lily keeps things lifted, and creamy

vanilla melts into the skin, leaving a decadent trail that lingers like the last delicious

crumb.

Pigmentarium Aereo

Airy yet grounding, Aereo feels like finding a quiet moment after rain. Soft, mineral

cashmeran suggests warm soil, pink pepper brings a flicker of clarity, and soothing

myrrh anchors it all in a clean, contemplative stillness.

Aesop Unforeseen Aer

Wind-whipped and refreshing at first, this aromatic fougère brings rugged, mineral

heights to mind. Geranium, lavandin and rosemary create its cool rush of air, while

nutmeg lends a textured warmth as the scent settles into comfort.

Prada Olfactories Nylon Noir

Prada’s iconic nylon becomes something you can almost feel against your skin.

Luminous jasmine gives way to a clean, enveloping nylon accord, before musk

emerges in the dry-down, leaving a sleek, softly polished trail.

Prada Olfactories Troubled Midnight

A city after dark, where hot pavement meets cold air and light flares against

shadow. Smoky incense and patchouli bring depth to this warm amber-musk, while

a date accord adds a softly fruity glow – satin darkness in perfume form.

Suzy & Nicola are back for part two of their Pitti Fragranze roundup, continuing their deep-dive into the perfume launches, houses and ideas that made this year’s Florence fair feel so full of possibility.

Having attended Pitti Fragranze for thirteen years, Suzy felt this was one of the most exciting editions yet. Alongside the return of classical perfume structures reinterpreted for contemporary tastes, she noticed a growing confidence in brands drawing upon personal heritage, local materials, food culture, landscape, ritual and memory. In this episode, the pair explore some of the fragrances that most vividly expressed those stories.

From a Chinese-French house capturing the transient scent of sun-dried osmanthus, to Korean brands evoking fire-charred ingredients, graceful calligraphy and fine-dining balances of flavour, this episode travels widely through fragrance’s newest creative terrain. There is also a decadent, night-time gourmand journey through Bandra in Mumbai; a woody incense scent from Reserve en Afrique; and two beautifully emotional creations from Italian poet-perfumer Meo Fusciuni.

Listen for a perfume that smells of roasted chestnuts, fermented tea and Korean seaweed crisp; a vivid, herbal peach; a “new century” Parma violet growing in a cold spring garden; and a cocoa-rich love story that charts the bitterness and sweetness of heartbreak…

https://fragranze.pittimmagine.com/en/events-calendar

Reserve en Afrique’s Woodoo is a woody, resinous composition built around the warm, meditative pull of incense, balsams and dry woods.

It opens with ginger and olibanum, giving the fragrance both brightness and a slightly peppery, ceremonial character. Labdanum, iris and white flowers arrive at the heart, adding a soft, ambery texture: floral, but shadowed by resin and a certain velvety darkness. The base of musk, benzoin, cedar, tonka bean and cypriol brings a long-lasting warmth, with dry woods, sweet balsams and a gently smoky earthiness.

The name suggests ritual, mystery and a connection to wood, smoke and spirituality, and the composition seems to play with all those ideas. This is not necessarily a loud fragrance, but one that gradually develops its presence on skin: incense-lit, softly floral, smooth with tonka, and grounded by a woody, mineral base.

Reserve en Afrique draws inspiration from African landscapes, stories and olfactory traditions, translating them into contemporary fine fragrance. Woodoo feels like a particularly atmospheric example of that approach: a scent that uses familiar perfume materials, but lets them tell a more transportive story.

Eau de pensée, the debut fragrance from Chinese-French house Cent.PM, begins with an intensely personal memory: founder Haoyuan recalling the childhood ritual of sun-drying osmanthus blossoms in a field.

Rather than trying to make a literal flower portrait, Cent.PM treats the memory as something unstable and shifting. The perfume is intended to capture that instant when an old recollection suddenly brightens into focus, only to blur again as past and present overlap. The opening is vibrant and light-filled, with notes including neroli, pink pepper and mandarin lending a sparkling, green-citrus lift. From there, the fragrance becomes more veiled and contemplative, eventually settling into a warm, close-to-the-skin afterglow.

Osmanthus can be a fascinating material in perfume: floral, but also capable of suggesting apricot, tea, suede and a certain honeyed, almost leathery softness. Here, its role appears to be as much emotional as olfactory, carrying the atmosphere of childhood, sunshine, landscape and passing time.

Cent.PM approaches fragrance as a meeting point between cultures, materials and memory. Its name and first release suggest an interest in the fleeting, in-between time of late afternoon: a moment for reflection, imagination and sensory recollection.

Korean house Sisology’s Être toi is a tender, uplifting fragrance built around the idea that being fully oneself is its own kind of beauty.

The scent opens with freesia and peach, combining clean floral freshness with soft, gently juicy fruit. Rose sits at the heart, bringing a familiar, romantic bloom, but the fragrance’s real appeal lies in the ease of its overall structure. Patchouli, woods and amber provide a warm, lightly earthy base that gives the composition depth without overwhelming its airiness.

Sisology describes Être toi as a perfume for the easy laugh, the hopeful heart and the comfort of sincerity. It is imagined as sunlight through lace curtains: bright but soft, clean but intimate. That makes it sound less like a dramatic statement fragrance and more like a gentle confidence-builder, the kind of scent that feels naturally part of the wearer rather than something imposed upon them.

The brand is based in Seoul and works across fragrance and sensorial beauty. Its style is rooted in the expressive, emotional side of scent, but presented in a modern, approachable way. Être toi is a quietly optimistic introduction to that world.

Founded in Seoul in 2025, Insenf is a niche perfume house that combines traditional Korean craftsmanship with modern scent science. Its work takes everyday cultural references such as fashion, food and lifestyle, then interprets them through fragrance in unusual and highly textural ways.

Charred Wood is part of the Table Collection, inspired by ingredients transformed through fire, smoke and time. In perfume terms, that means the scent has the drama of a meal cooked over open heat: black pepper freshly crushed on the table; chestnuts slowly roasting; smoke rising from salted seaweed; the mineral warmth of charcoal lingering after the flames are gone.

The opening combines black pepper, roasted chestnut and smoked sea salt. It is dry, spicy and savoury, with the chestnut adding a nutty, almost comforting contrast to the salt and smoke. The heart moves in an even more unexpected direction: fermented tea, Korean seaweed crisp, incense resin, myrrh and clove leaf. These notes suggest a rich umami character, but the resins and clove also ensure it remains recognisably perfumery rather than becoming simply gastronomic.

Charcoal, hinoki, amberwood, patchouli and vetiver provide the base. Hinoki is especially evocative here, its dry, aromatic woodiness echoing Japanese and Korean bathing and temple woods, while vetiver and patchouli add rootiness and shadow. Charred Wood sounds like a fragrance for anyone who enjoys scent at its most savoury, smoky and unconventional.

Kuoca approaches fragrance through the lens of fine dining, treating its compositions as carefully balanced experiences in which freshness, sweetness, texture and contrast all matter. The Korean beauty brand is best known for making sensorial products that feel deliciously tactile, and Wild Peach takes that same appetite for pleasure into fragrance.

Wild Peach centres on the sunny, juicy character of ripe fruit, but it is not designed as a dense peach syrup. Verbena and mint bring a sparkling, aromatic greenness that makes the peach feel freshly picked and still cool from the morning air. Peach blossom adds a lighter floral aspect, while ho wood lends a smooth, softly woody finish.

The brand describes Wild Peach through the image of freshly squeezed peaches from Provence, with aromatic herbs giving a more sophisticated edge to the fruit. This sounds like a peach scent for those who usually find fruit fragrances too candied or obvious: bright, translucent and almost thirst-quenching rather than sticky.

It is also a useful example of one of the wider trends Suzy noticed at Pitti: perfume houses taking familiar notes and shifting expectations around them. Peach here becomes less about confectionery and more about the contrast between ripe flesh, green leaves, fresh herbs and pale wood.

Korean house Salon de Nevaeh was impossible to overlook at Pitti, not least because of its exquisite bottle design. The flacons are ceramic and inset with mother-of-pearl, giving them the presence of miniature objects of craft rather than simply containers for perfume.

Inside, the fragrances draw upon Korean aesthetic and cultural references. Choseo is inspired by “Grass Script”, a flowing form of cursive calligraphy in which brushstrokes can appear dynamic, spontaneous and unruly, while still carrying great poise and control.

That movement is reflected in the perfume’s green composition. Dried herbs, green leaves, lime and mandarin give the opening an angular, bright and almost brush-like energy. Spearmint, geranium and muguet create a cooler, softer heart, while pine needle, galbanum, rosewood and musk provide a base that is leafy, resinous and quietly woody.

The brand describes the fragrance as sharp and unruly green up close, but gentler and pale green from a distance. That is a beautiful way of describing the evolution of a green scent: the vivid snap of crushed stems and herbs gradually becoming more hazy, calm and atmospheric on skin. Salon de Nevaeh is described as Korea’s first niche perfume house and translates traditional Korean culture into contemporary fragrance.

Sasva is a contemporary Indian perfume house that refuses easy ideas of heritage or nostalgia. Rooted in India but created for a global, modern audience, the brand looks to poetry, ritual, cinema, craftsmanship, street life and contemporary culture to form what it calls a new olfactory language.

Forbidden Words Bombay Gourmand takes the original Forbidden Words fragrance into the pulsating night-time atmosphere of Bandra, Mumbai. It imagines the warm, smoky air of bars and late-night streets, where desire, ambition, indulgence and possibility mingle with the scents of cocktails and boozy desserts.

The fragrance is by Luca Maffei, and its core is the contrast between oud, salted caramel and vanilla. Sweet orange and rose introduce a nod to Indian sweets, while patchouli, davana and labdanum help give the composition its darker, more aromatic structure. The salted caramel adds a modern gourmand temptation, but the oud and resins are there to ensure depth, shadow and texture.

It sounds like a perfume of excess, but not necessarily heaviness. The use of orange, rose and davana can bring luminosity and lift, while patchouli and labdanum make the fragrance feel woody and smoky rather than merely sugary. It is an especially enticing choice for anyone who likes their gourmands with a little danger and a lot of atmosphere.

Meo Fusciuni is the Italian independent house created by perfumer Giuseppe Imprezzabile. The brand is known for its deeply personal approach to scent, using fragrance as a poetic medium for memory, landscape, love, loss and the sensations that remain after an experience has passed.

Amara Mia is a cocoa-centred fragrance that explores the bitter and sweet sensations of a relationship coming to an end. Rather than simply making cocoa smell delicious, it uses it as an emotional material: comforting, sensual, nostalgic and, ultimately, a little painful.

The opening combines cocoa with raspberry and candied orange, creating a warm, fruit-bright impression that could suggest the first sweetness of love or the urge to seek comfort after heartbreak. Iris then brings a powdery, elegant softness, while sandalwood and tonka bean create creaminess and warmth. The dry-down is intended to hold both bitterness and serenity: an acknowledgement that love can end, change and still leave something precious behind.

This is an enveloping fragrance, but it has an emotional seriousness beneath the gourmand appeal. It is ideal for anyone drawn to cocoa scents that feel more intimate and melancholic than edible: less chocolate box, more a late-night memory held close to the skin. Meo Fusciuni describes its perfume-making as a language of sensing, memory and emotion.

With Viole Nere, Meo Fusciuni reinterprets the iconic Parma violet in a way that retains its powdery charm but roots it firmly in earth, weather and emotional complexity.

Violet can so easily become overly sweet, cosmetic or nostalgic in perfume. Here, it is pictured in a garden in the early days of March, when the soil is still cold and damp from winter, but the first signs of spring are beginning to appear. Cassis provides an opening sparkle that feels both fruity and green. Violet, iris and floral accords offer their tender, powdery and elegant facets, while vetiver, patchouli and incense pull the scent downward towards soil, roots, resin and shadow.

The result is not a naïve floral, but a violet with history and gravity. It has the soft focus and familiar charm of an old-fashioned Parma violet, while feeling more textural, darker and more contemporary. The brand describes it as “a Violetta from the 1920s but of the new century”, which perfectly captures that meeting of vintage romance and modern perfumery.

Viole Nere won the 2024 Accademia del Profumo Award for Best Artistic Perfume by an Independent Brand. It is a fitting accolade for a fragrance that takes a beloved, often underestimated note and gives it complexity, atmosphere and an unforgettable sense of place.

Taken together, these two Pitti Fragranze episodes reveal a perfume world that feels newly confident in the quieter powers of beauty. There were, of course, striking ideas and vividly imaginative stories at every turn – shipwrecked tobacco, the rare botanicals of Mount Olympus, sun-dried osmanthus, fire-charred Korean ingredients and Mumbai after dark – but what stayed with Suzy most was the sense of refinement running through so many of the fragrances.

These scents weren’t about loudness and longevity for their own sake. Instead, perfumers seemed increasingly interested in classical forms, traditional materials and recognisable olfactory families, then finding new ways to make them feel alive on skin. Iris appeared again and again, in textures ranging from buttery and cosmetic to rooty, cool and leathery. Rose felt more nuanced than merely romantic, paired with tea, pepper, tobacco, dark woods or amber. Leather returned in supple, smoky and suede-like forms, while tobacco was made strange and compelling through salt, sunlight, water, fruit, smoke and resin.

Amber and fougère also felt ripe for rediscovery. Rather than simply recreating the past, these fragrances used familiar structures as a starting point, playing with aldehydes, shaving soap, lavender, oakmoss, balsams and musks to create perfumes that nodded to vintage elegance while still feeling utterly wearable now. They were beautifully rounded compositions – full of character, but balanced; rich in material, but never overworked.

Food remained an important source of inspiration, too, but often with greater complexity than straightforward sweetness. There were Nordic buns, salted caramel, smoked sea salt, roasted chestnut, fermented tea, seaweed crisp, cocoa, peach and boozy desserts. The most compelling examples did not smell like novelties. They used flavour, texture, heat, smoke and memory as tools of perfumery, bringing savoury, bitter, mineral, herbal or resinous facets into the picture. A fragrance might begin with a food reference, but develop into something much more layered and emotionally resonant.

The emotive rendering of scent memories was perhaps the common thread connecting everything. Whether recalling a childhood field of osmanthus drying in the sun, the first violets in damp March earth, a beloved cabin bag, a mythological passage through darkness, a late night in Bandra, or the scent of warm peach and fresh herbs, these perfumes made distant places and private experiences feel immediately attainable. One spray, and a landscape, meal, garden, journey or moment of intimacy could be summoned again.

Even the bottles reflected this renewed appreciation for craft and beauty. Ceramic flacons with mother-of-pearl inlay, considered glasswork and objects designed to be treasured suggested that perfume is increasingly being presented not simply as a product, but as a complete artistic experience.

Ultimately, the most exciting message from Pitti Fragranze was that a perfume does not need to shout in order to make an impression. It can be poetic, nuanced and exquisitely composed. It can be softly spoken but emotionally enormous. And when traditional materials are handled with imagination, sensitivity and a real sense of story, they can still surprise us completely… And hurrah for that!

If you’ve ever wondered what goes on in a fragrance trade fair, get ready for all the news as Suzy reviews this year’s Pitti Fragranze in Florence. There are some some thrilling new launches and brands to get excited by, and she reveals some of the trends we can expect to see filtering their way through to the wider fragrance world over the coming months.

In fact, firstly a storm stopped play as we arrived in Florence, with Suzy’s plane stranded on the runway for three hours as lightning struck. Luckily the rest of the trip was exciting for all the right reasons!

Suzy has been attending the Pitti Fragranze trade fair for thirteen years, and genuinely felt this was one of the best ever years. The overall vibe seemed to be a return to beauty - classical perfumery elements woven in new and intriguing ways, and with greater cultural diversity from brands showcasing their heritage and aromas they grew up with. We’ll be focussing more in this aspect - as well as talking about the trends Suzy saw emerging this year - in next week’s episode. But until then, enjoy this whistle-stop rundown of some of Suzy’s highlights of the show this year…

Suzy’s top picks of the show (well SOME of them - there were a lot! We’ll have to cover some more in future episodes and on our Patreon page).

Beaufort London Sunken Tobacco

Imagine an ancient, lead-lined wooden box of tobacco—lost in a shipwreck and submerged beneath the sea. Centuries later, the wreck re-emerges and its precious cargo is rediscovered. Barnacled and salt-encrusted, the lid is levered off - within, tobacco lies preserved in shadow and silt.

Exposed at last to the sun, the furled leaves begin to bloom: warm, dark, faintly honeyed. Salt crystals glitter on wave-lapped rocks as the tobacco is laid out upon sun-bleached driftwood, its leathery richness threaded with mineral air, smoke, tar and sea-spray.

A buried treasure, reclaimed from the deep - not pristine, but made stranger and more compelling by its long immersion. Sunken Tobacco is the scent of faded maps and flooded holds - of a sailor’s hoard brought blinking into daylight, still carrying the ocean in its grain.

Four new Olfiction Lab Editions (coming soon! Expected launch on their website by end of November)

BALSAM

Neo-vintage amber

Aldehydes, Apple, Bergamot

Jasmine, Ylang Ylang, Muguet

Peru Balsam, Labdanum, Vanilla absolute, Fir Balsam, Benzoin, White Musks, Oakmoss

SUAVE

Neo-vintage fougere

Nutmeg, Shaving soap, Cedar Leaf, Coffee CO2

Lavender absolute, Lavender oil, Coffee absolute,

Geranium, Sage

Musk Accord, Suede, Animal notes, Incense resin, Rectified Cedarwood, Oakmoss

CASSISSIMO

Fruity floral

Blackcurrant Bud CO2, Blackcurrant Bud absolute, Blackberry, Red Mandarin

Champagne accord, Tuberose absolute, Rose absolute Bulgaria, Geranium Rosat

Musk, Cognac oil, Vanilla syrup, Benzoin, Patchouli, Sandalwood Australia

LASKIAISPULLA

Gourmand

Nordic Shrove Buns

Whipped Cream, Marzipan, Raspberry Jam, Raspberry

Leaf, Orris

Vanilla sugar, Vanilla absolute, Tonka absolute, Tonka infusion, Benzoin, Opoponax

OLYMRA

Founder: Born and raised in Greece, Dr. Frida Michailidou is an award-winning scientist whose work is deeply rooted in Greek botanical heritage, nature, and innovation. Previously a Lecturer and Collegium Fellow at ETH Zurich, she led the first scientific expedition to decode the rare scents of Mount Olympus using pioneering non-destructive technology. Recognised as an MIT Innovator Under 35 Europe and TEDx speaker, she is redefining perfumery through the convergence of science, sustainability, and the timeless spirit of Greece.

‘Born from the rare botanicals of Mount Olympus, OLYMRA transforms myth, memory, and wild nature into modern extrait de parfum.

Grounded in earth, inspired by the divine.’

Persephone

‘Deep. Intimate. Transformative.

OLYMRA PERSEPHONE is a fragrance of dual worlds: one of light, one of shadow. Inspired by the mythic queen who walks between both, it captures a moment of transformation: the instant spring yields to desire, and dusk begins to bloom.

The fragrance opens with bergamot, pink pepper, and cardamom; bright, spiced notes that shimmer like sunlight across stone. At its heart, a lush pairing of Damask rose, Centifolia rose, and the OLYMRA plant accord, a precise reconstruction of rare mountain flora, unfurls with velvet intensity. Beneath, a deep base of cacao, tonka bean, beeswax, grey amber, and hyrax evokes warmth, earth, and skin; the lingering traces of a myth reborn.

OLYMRA PERSEPHONE is not a fragrance of opposition, but of passage and evolution; from innocence to knowing, from surface to depth, from petal to flame. Crafted for those who carry both sunlight and shadow.

She walks between worlds. Will you follow her into the dusk?’

Kharon

‘Dark. Sensual. Elemental.

OLYMRA KHARON is a fragrance shaped by myth and memory. Inspired by Kharon, the ferryman of Hades, silent, unwavering, eternal, it is an olfactory passage through the darker recesses of the soul.

The scent opens with sharp lemon, luminous neroli, and the spark of black pepper, evoking the moment just before surrender. At its heart, the complexity deepens: Damask rose and tobacco entwine with the OLYMRA Accord, a precise reconstruction of wild flora from Mount Olympus. In the base, smoked wood, beeswax, vetiver, sandalwood, and a bold note of hyrax create a dry, tactile finish; intimate yet vast, like breath inside stone.

OLYMRA KHARON is not designed to please. It is designed to confront. To carry. To remain. A fragrance for those drawn not to light, but to truth; wherever it may lead.

The river lays ahead... Are you ready to cross?’

Laboratorio Olfattivo Bagage à main

(translates as hand luggage in British English)

‘Leather and Nutmeg; middle notes are Vetiver and Peru Balsam; base notes are Patchouli, Amber, Tonka Bean and Ambronova ™’

Laboratorio Olfattivo Rose Me Twice

(By Jean-Claude Ellena)

‘With over 40,000 varieties, the rose is the flower whose fragrance has been most extensively explored by perfumers — an entire universe in which one can easily lose oneself among its infinite nuances. This exploration took a decisive turn in 1867, when the breeder Jean-Baptiste Guillot created ‘La France’, the first hybrid tea rose.

With this innovation, Guillot introduced not merely a new flower, but an olfactory signature that would shape perfumery forever. Today, whenever I perceive a tea note within a rose, I immediately recognize its lineage from that historic hybridization. The secret of this aroma lies in a specific molecule: ionone — used to recreate the scent of violet, but also a key component in the olfactory impression of tea.’

Heeley Chiris

Historic French house revered and revived by James Heeley in this INCREDIBLE leather / iris / Chypre fragrance.

‘The fragrance house of Antoine Chiris dates back to 1768 and is considered to be the first and perhaps the greatest of the enterprises that made a business of harvesting natural materials and turning them into the raw materials of perfumery and, at times, creating the perfumes themselves.

Antoine de Chiris was born into a wealthy family of Italian origin. In Grasse he began buying up fields which produced flowers which were converted into perfumery materials. Chiris held early patents on a steam distillation process capable of producing significant amounts of high quality oil at an economic cost. This technology helped made Grasse the international focus of perfumery for over a century and a half.’

History from https://www.perfumeprojects.com/museum/marketers/Chiris.shtml

The fragrance: ‘Chiris by James Heeley is an iris and leather fragrance created by James Heeley and launched in 2026. It pays tribute to Chiris, the historic perfume-materials producer founded in Grasse in 1768, and to the Iris Pallida it cultivated in Tuscany. Osmanthus, citrus and peach open the composition, followed by Iris Pallida and olibanum over a base of leather, cedar, sandalwood and amber.’

Lorenzo Villoresi Vol D’Abaris

The nose behind this fragrance is Alessandro Villoresi. The fragrance features Tobacco, Amber, Vanilla, Musk and Woody Notes.

Are you feeling the need for snuggly scents yet? Suzy and Nicola are leaning into the cosiness in this week’s episode and have been gathering together some of new launches and favourite fragrances they’ve been wearing as autumn approaches. The discussion ranges from ultra-sophisticated gourmands encompassing chocolate and lattes, to a bohemian rose, a truly fantastic new woody scent, and an American niche tobacco fragrance Suzy fell for years ago and a listener kindly sourced a sample of for her. Plus, the #listenerprescription this week is for a ‘friendship fragrance’ to link and be shared by a listener and her best friend who is moving far away...

Tom Ford Tobacco Chocolat

By Daniela Andrier

‘TOM FORD has long been drawn to the sensual, masculine heat of tobacco – and now, the perfumer adds another iteration to its repertoire. Tobacco Chocolat is an eau de parfum founded upon the brand’s exclusive cocoa smoke accord, a note that fuses the rich, intoxicating quality of cocoa with the grounding earthiness of tobacco. Alongside this powerful core are a host of complimentary notes, from bright orange essence to balsam and patchouli, coming together to make a fragrance set to capture attention.

Top Notes: cocoa smoke co-distillation, Orange Essence

Middle Notes: peru balsam, chocolat noir grand cru delight

Base Notes: patchouli cœur Indonesia, Ambrofix.’

NEST New York Cardamom Latte

‘Like cashmere on bare skin, this spicy gourmand eau de parfum is endlessly wearable. The gentle heat of cardamom drifts through jasmine-laced air steeped in the creamy comfort of coconut milk.

Cardamom Latte unfolds like the perfect pour—layered and immersive. Heat blooms into softness. Spice melts into cream. Steam diffuses into air. Transforming your atmosphere with warmth you can feel. An enveloping fragrance that surrounds before it settles. Because comfort isn’t static. It’s fluid.’

Acqua di Parma Signatures of the Sun Cedar Virtuoso (& body cream)

‘Cedro Virtuoso celebrates the sensorial warmth of creation—the moment when an idea begins to take shape and inner confidence turns sensibility into emotion. Like the different stages of a creative process, the fragrance unfolds like a warm embrace, encouraging creativity to rise from within. Between vivid, vibrant notes and deeper, cocooning tones that accompany the journey from intuition to realization is the fragrance’s distinctive singularity: a co-infusion of Virginia cedarwood and hazelnut, whose encounter shapes a creamy woody signature.’

Miller Harris Scherzo Extrait

‘Developed at 30% concentration, Scherzo Extrait captures the vibrant spirit of the original Eau de Parfum while unveiling a deeper, more intoxicating signature. Bright, luminous sweetness meets newfound richness and warmth, allowing the fragrance to bloom with a more immersive intensity for lasting presence.

The fragrance opens with the familiar rush of tangerine and davana, radiating vibrant fruity luminosity. At its heart, delicate peony blooms abundantly alongside crisp pittosporum, while a new dimension begins to emerge: a more sumptuous and velvety rose, enrobed in golden honey and entwined with creamy vanilla for a richer sensuality, its floral radiance enhanced by threads of incense to bring light and vibration. Together, they introduce a magnetic tension, guiding the fragrance towards more mysterious territory.

At the base, shimmering oudh unfolds with greater texture, amplified by intensified patchouli and moss. The introduction of smooth amber woods brings warmth and refinement, creating a striking counterpoint to the fragrance's signature sweetness. As these richer notes emerge, they reveal new facets of its character.

The result is a fragrance which is radiant yet mysterious, vibrant yet profound, with a more enduring and enveloping trail.’

HEAD NOTES:

Tangerine*, Davana* (herb with a fruity, sweet, tea like smell, member of the Artemisia family.)

HEART NOTES:

Rose Nectar Accord, Peony, Olibanum* (Frankincense), Pittosporum.

LASTING IMPRESSIONS:

Patchouli*, Vanilla, Oudh, Moss, Amber Woods, Sweet Note.

Sonoma Scents Tabac Aurea

‘Tabac Aurea has an enticing golden amber drydown and a pipe tobacco note that is enjoyed by women as well as men. It’s smooth and softly gourmand, with notes of amber, woods, spices, tobacco, leather, tonka, labdanum, patchouli, and vanilla. The amber accord combines dry earthy notes with sweet elements and subtle fruity touches to create an addictive, beautiful, golden aura. One of our top three best-selling scents.’

Ormonde Jayne Sybarite

Nicola has been finding great comfort and energy in this, lately. It’s the only store-exclusive founder and creative director Linda Pilkington has allowed for her own Royal Arcade boutique, this was so worth the wait. A perfect melange of creamy hazelnut and orris butter, it’s the Timur pepper and the effervescently spiced sparkle it adds to the composition that ties it all together. Utterly unique, and beautifully balanced, it’s the finer things in life lovingly bottled. Those craving outside London: call or email them for information.

Perfume Prescription:

Luci Tither:

‘Hi lovely ladies, you very kindly gave me a perfume prescription for a magical trip to Porto last year (excellent recommendation of Claus Porto). And I wondered if you'd indulge a second prescription if I may. I loved the notion of a friendship fragrance mentioned in a recent episode. It really struck a chord with me as my best friend is very sadly moving to Canada from the UK early next year and although I'm very happy for her, I'm going to miss her immensely. I wondered if it would be at all possible to help us find a fragrance that we could both wear whenever we meet, and will remind us of each other when we're apart.

She loves a gourmand like Bianco Latte, Seven Virtues Vanilla Amber or skin scents like Not A Perfume and Phlur Not Your Baby. For me, I love clean, powdery skin scents (like Molecule Iris, Prada Infusion), and warm sandalwood/ambery scents (think Sana Jardin Sandalwood Temple, BDK Vanilla Leather). We also both love a rogue option like Dries Van Noten Fleur de Mal, BDK Rouge Smoking Jacket and Amouage Guidance.

Apologies for the long message - I hope you can suggest something that we'd both love and can make being thousands of miles apart that bit easier. Thank you in advance - your podcast is very much my happy place on my commute to work. Xx’

Suzy thinks it’s definitely worth trying a sample of Estée Lauder Glimmer (and the Acqua di Parma Cedro Virtuoso), and also suggests:

Molton Brown Milk Musk Eau de Toilette

Milk gently laps at luscious notes of pear, delicate florals and sheer white musk, while Ambroxan and cashmere add that skin-on-skin warmth. Scented contentment awaits, tender as a fluttery kiss, softly embracing rather than swaddling.

Fischersund Faux Flora No. 1

Encompassing the life cycles of plants and humans alike, this scent ‘springs from universal experiences.’ A sparkle of bergamot’s brightness is swathed by ‘mountain milk’, cool, pristine and porcelain-like, warming to salty iris’s mortal muskiness.

Eris Parfums Mothers Milk

Antoine Lee’s ‘primordial gourmand’ blends buttery orris and vanilla with hyper-realistic warm milk, subverting the soft-focus skin-swaddled kiss of comfort, as ‘good’ mother (rosily nurturing) becomes ‘bad’ (suede-like, sultry). Think fairytale mother turned Joan Crawford.

Maison Louis Marie Bois de Balincourt (You can get a mini travel set with the oil and EDP, so could purchase one to share, perhaps?)

‘Bois de Balincourt is inspired by our family home, nestled deep within an ancient forest. Along a trail we fondly called Lover’s Lane, generations wandered under towering trees, surrounded by stillness and memory. This signature scent layers creamy sandalwood and cedar with warming cinnamon and nutmeg, anchored by earthy vetiver — a romantic, comforting fragrance with effortless depth.’

Olfactive O Skin

Nicola had the brilliant idea of using this scent as your shared ‘base’ layer, which you can wear alone or layer with any other perfume you have. That way, she thought you’d always be grounded in the same scent. Suzy then had the idea if you both ordered bottles, you could use then personalise them – each full-size bottle of Skin extrait comes with a fingerprint ink pad and blank label for this purpose!

Olivia, the founder, describes Skin as: ‘...for everyone, universal yet deeply personal. The delicate balance of notes blends with your skin chemistry to create the absolute essence of you – unmistakable and compelling. It can be applied on its own or worn in combination with any of the other personality scents to magnify and enhance your unique scent. I am the alchemist, the musician, the storyteller. I am confident in my own skin and never need to pretend. I confound expectations and you’ll keep coming back to me, intrigued and charmed. I am sun-warmed skin on the beach, tousled hair, the cool of cotton sheets at the end of the day.’

This week Suzy & Nicola are pondering the resurgence of iris - one of the most traditional (and costly) notes in perfumery made modern by exploring it in surprising ways. From one of the all-time classic iris perfumes launching a new version after 114 years, to another historic house who’s just launched a dashingly debonair iris scent; and a brilliantly affordable iris from a high street shop that’s one of our star buys year… There’s a lot to love!

After discussing what else we’ve fallen for lately, and Suzy’s perfume picks from an Australian brand’s stunning new East End boutique; we asked Scott (@blublazer guy) to answer a listener’s question about fragrances to wear while visiting Edinburgh.

On the show:

Guerlain L’Heure Bleu (new)

Perfumer Delphine Jelk says she didn’t try ‘to modernise the original L’Heure Bleue from 1912, nor to revisit it, but to pay tribute to a masterpiece and to translate that emotion into the present through a new palette of ingredients.’ A ‘homemade iris tincture created exclusively for this perfume’ is woven into a fresher-feeling ‘ozonic blue sky accord to shiver’, together with ‘the softness of orange blossom’, on a base of vanilla, woods and musk, creating what Jelk calls ‘airy, powdery sensuality’.

Creed Iris Debonair

‘Unlock Iris Debonair, an addictive fougère floral capturing the allure of an aesthete's domain, where every room reveals an intentional art of living. Opening with a luminous stroke of bergamot co-infused with absinthe leaves, at the heart, crisp English lavender unfolds with cool, aromatic clarity. French iris pallida, suffused in pale blue, is magnetic and among perfumery's most precious materials.

Head Notes

Bergamot & Absinthe, Pink Pepper, Cardamom

Heart Notes

English Lavender, Violet Leaf, Fig Pulp Accord

Base Notes

French Iris Pallida, Ambrette, Amberwood’

Boots Last Note Echoes of You

50ml fragrance priced at £12.99 from the debut "Last Note" collection. It features a sparkling pink pepper top note, a middle core of velvety iris and cashmere musk, and a warm amber base.

Top: Pink pepper

Heart: Iris, cashmere musk

Base: Warm amber

Merchant of Venice Renaissance

‘By Calice Becker, this floral-leathery fragrance is inspired by Renaissance ideals of balance and harmony, housed in a golden-accented Murano glass bottle.

Top Notes: Galbanum, Orange Blossom Absolute, Saffron

Heart Notes: Iris, Indonesian Patchouli, Leather, Akigalawood

Base Notes: Ambrofix™, Vanilla, Frankincense (Incense), Musk.’

Jo Malone London Rose & Oud Leather Cologne Intense (Harrods)

‘The captivating fragrance is a tribute to the prevailing beauty of the flower and is brought to life by additional notes of patchouli and amber.

Top Notes: oud, leather

Middle Notes: damask rose

Base Notes: patchouli, amber.’

Thomas de Monaco Luisant Haze (Wild Iris)

‘Luisant Haze expands the Gold Collection of Thomas De Monaco Parfums with a fragrance that approaches sweetness in a different way.

At the heart of the composition is a reimagined tuberose. Not opulent or dense, but softened, diffused, and luminous. Sweetness appears here in a new form: airy rather than heavy, radiant rather than indulgent. Notes of fraise des bois, cotton candy, and tonka are lifted by white musks and amber facets, creating a transparent structure that stays close to the skin.’

Givenchy L’Interdit Elixir

‘L'Interdit Elixir evokes a precious talisman infused with power, created to unveil the magnetic strength within every woman.

The scent opens with the voluptuous intensity of Black Cherry, illuminated by the delicate bitterness of almond essence. It melts into L'Interdit's iconic bouquet of white flowers, where Orange Blossom, Tuberose, and Jasmine reveal an opulent, almost carnal femininity, enriched by the profound woody nuances of pure oakwood extract.

Faithful to Givenchy's art of contrast, L'Interdit Elixir balances shadow and light, sensuality and strength. At its most addictive, a warm, liqueur-like accord unfolds through the richness of Rum Absolute, Davana Essence, and Vanilla Extract, leaving behind a deeply enveloping trail. Fused with the skin, the fragrance becomes a captivating aura of confidence — a pure expression of empowered femininity.’

Giorgio Armani I WILL

‘A sensual strength forged through time, I WILL awakens tenacity with confidence and leaves an intense, unmistakable trail. Created by Nathalie Lorson and Alberto Morillas, it opens with bergamot and cardamom, develops through lavender and violet leaf, and settles into Madagascan vanilla with a woody leather accord.’

Flaner fragrances: new Australian niche fragrance boutique in East London. You can listen to a live recording of Suzy and Amanda Carr visiting their stunning shop and hearing all about the collection on an exclusive extra episode. Head to patreon.com here to sign up for an extra episode every week:

https://www.patreon.com/u84518038

Suzy’s favourites from Flaner were:

Sonic Silver

‘Inspiration: Tram tracks connecting city streets

The sun peaks through the clouds after rain, glistening off the sleek silver tracks. Urban landscapes echo past, providing a window into the irreverent spirit of an eclectic city with backdrop of thunderous rhythm of metal. Imbuing the artistic spirit found in the canvas of urban laneways, this fragrance captures the raw, urban edge of a city's atmosphere to create something truly unique.

Notes:

Top: Basil, Lavender, Bergamot

Middle: Metallic, Petrichor, Cardamom

Base: Asphalt & Tar, Green Patchouli, Musk & Tonka.’

Manhattan Cherry

‘Inspiration: Speakeasies of Manhattan

A laneway door opens and down a flight of stairs a small room with leather chairs, dark woods and the faint smell of tobacco signals a forbidden and mysterious world. Dimly lit and intimate, the night invites indulgence and seduction. A sensual tryst of cherry and dark bourbon, this fragrance evokes the boldness and intoxicating allure that comes from the Manhattan cocktail, in Manhattan of course.’

Enjoy responsibly.

Notes:

Top: Maraschino cherry, Red vermouth, Orange peel

Middle: Bourbon, Ginger, Cinnamon

Base: Amber wood, Tobacco, Leather, Vanilla

Listener prescription:

Ashley Burk

‘Hello! :) I have been listening to your podcast for years and years! I feel like you both have been traveling with me around the world because you have now helped me find fragrances to wear in Greece, Ireland, and Japan! This October I got myself a ticket to go to Edinburgh, Scotland and was wondering if you could recommend me some perfume to wear while I go for a week. I will be doing the Harry Potter steam train day trip one of the days! If you know of any perfume stores I should see in Edinburgh please let me know as well. I am so excited to be there during October. Thank you both! :)’

Who better to turn to than our friend Scott @blublazerguy (who happens to live in Edinburgh) and suggested:

Kingdom Scotland Portal

‘Ancient forest. Still air. The scent of Scotland before the world arrived.

A green woody chypre eau de parfum that opens on crushed heather and wild herbs, deepens into cool fern and forest moss, and settles into a long, intimate base of oakmoss, vetiver, and peat-warmed cedar.’

Jorum Studio Boswelia Scotia

‘Royal Green Hojari Frankincense, Pink Pepper, Saffron, Cistus, Sandalwood Mysore, Cypriol, Patchouli, Black Hemlock, Fir Balsam, Olibanum Absolute.

A golden veil of gossamer-light. Royal Green Hojari Frankincense soothed by fir balsam and black hemlock. Boswellia Scotia is incense reimagined; translucent, atmospheric and quietly magnetic.’

ANFORH Aire

‘Crisp citrus, cool ozonic air, and dry vetiver - Aire is clarity bottled. Fresh, textured, and quietly confident.

Fresh, zesty, and mineral. Green mandarin and Calabrian bergamot open with a burst of citrus brightness before giving way to the cool lift of ozonic air and the dry, earthy depth of vetiver. A fragrance that moves with energy and purpose, settling into a steady, confident calm.

From the Scots word "aire" (a gravel-shored coastal edge where land meets sea), Aire captures the sensation of standing on a coastal edge, breathing in invigorating, mineral air as light breaks across the water. It’s bright, citrus-driven, and full of energy - the feeling of movement and clarity. Inspired by the Scottish coastline, it balances natural vibrancy with grounded calm.’

Suzy suggests visiting Jorum Studio’s shop (incredible Scottish fragrance brand)

Jorum Edinburgh

12 St. Stephen Street, EH3 5AL

https://jorumstudio.com

& the new niche fragrance boutique Scent-ed in Glasgow:

https://www.scent-ed.com

In this episode we’re partnering with Estée Lauder for the first in a new series: Fragrant Focus. This is where we take our time exploring a single scent - smelling it together and sharing our thoughts. And we have an exciting GIVEAWAY for you to enter! Listen and read on to find out how to enter, hear our reviews of Glimmer, and the beautiful inspiration behind its launch.

We have a plethora of exciting new launches to tell you about, from niche names, designer and heritage houses alike. But we begin with an emotional journey to capture the scent of something very special to Suzy…

MANE Dad’s Rose

Suzy got very emotional about this olfactory delivery, as MANE - a fragrance creation house in the U.K. who’ve made scents for some of the biggest brands out there - managed to capture the scent of a rise her father planted for her when she was a little girl. One of MANE’s standout innovations is their ‘Jungle Essence™’ technology. In some ways similar to ‘headspace’ captures of previously unusable materials in perfumery, these essences are utterly unique and exclusive to MANE. And to see it in action is just MIND BLOWING!

Jungle Essence™ is a patented, eco-friendly scent and flavor extraction technology created by the fragrance house MANE. It uses supercritical carbon dioxide (CO₂) to capture the exact, true-to-life aroma of a raw material—whether it is a spice used in men's cologne, a flower, or wood—without using harsh chemical solvents or high heat. You can hear all about the process in a special Patron only extra episode on patreon.com (search for ‘On the Scent podcast’ to find us)

Penhaligon’s The Manoeuvres of The Baroness

Suzy and Nicola got very excited about this latest character in the Portraits collection (and it’s an orange blossom - one of the notes they regularly swoon over!) Key notes

Orange Blossom, Chantilly, Sandalwood

‘Collector of secrets and quiet conspiracies, the Baroness has always ruled from the shadows. Orange blossom sparkles with influence next to Chantilly. A whispered order of sandalwood. She doesn’t outrun danger; she outsmarts it.’

Jil Sander collection

Both Suzy & Nicola were hugely impressed by the latest Jil Sander fragrances, and these were Suzy’s two favourites:

Lily

‘Caught by surprise by an enchanting perfume on a warm Florentine night.

Lilies are white, sensual flowers that primarily release their fragrance after sunset.

In Jil Sander Lily the aldehydes bring the flower's metallic, blooming facets to life, while the floral power of the CO₂ extracted Jasmine Sambac, the warmth of Benzoin from Vietnam, and the verticality of the upcycled Cypress structure and balance this luscious, radiant fragrance.

This new majestic Floral White Flower fragrance magnifies the ephemeral into a lasting form.’

Mahogony:

‘The supreme energy of a tropical forest captured into a scent.

For the depths of its hues where red turns to black, mahogany is one of the most fascinating trees.

Jil Sander Mahogany pays homage to this exceptional expression of nature in a fragrance that fuses upcycled Cedarwood with the profound leathery facets of Cypriol from India, the fizzy, spicy notes of CO₂ extracted Ginger, and the aldehydes.

A rich and sophisticated Woody Leathery fragrance that raises mahogany to new heights.’

Nicola was so impressed by how realistic the Jil Sander Sesame was (though admits she may not be brave enough to wear it yet), while Suzy thought it was cosy and comforting.

French Cowboy Mezcal Chocolate (available at Wild Iris)

Suzy continues to be wowed by this exciting new niche house, and cannot wait for cooler weather in which to indulge in this one.

‘Mezcal Chocolat is fueled by extraordinary raw materials. It hits like a shot of mezcal: it opens with a sparkling Lime Oil, sharpened by Olibanum from Somalia for smoky depth. To push it further, our perfumer added an ultra-rare Rhum extract (as costly as some of perfumery’s finest Iris!).

Instead of just a synthetic cacao accord, Mezcal Chocolat goes all in on Cacao Absolute: the most precious form of cocoa, used here in unprecedented amounts. Its creaminess melts into a bed of woods: Virginia Cedarwood, prized for its soft smoky creaminess, and Cypriol Oil from India, adding shadow, depth, and a dark, earthy glow.’

Byredo Future Memories

Another fascinating take on vanilla, and our hosts both adored the juicy blackcurrant note balance g the sweetness here. ‘Byredo captures the tension between now and next: an invitation to live fully, to choose deliberately, to imprint the present with intention. Held like a quiet mantra at the back of the mind, one question remains: What do you choose today, to remember tomorrow?

A scent crafted like a memory in motion.

The fragrance opens with the vivid green freshness of galbanum, illuminated by the juicy brightness of blackcurrant and a veil of aldehydes that diffuse light through the composition. At its heart, powdery iris unfolds alongside warm, resinous labdanum, creating a textured impression that settles gently onto the skin. In the base, vanilla emerges in full, enriched by Ambrofix and an intimate veil of musks lingering on the skin as a subtle trace of what remains.

Top Notes: Galbanum essence, blackcurrant accord, and fresh aldehydes for a bright, sparkling, and green start.

Heart Notes: Iris butter, labdanum resinoid, orange blossom, and white vanilla accord providing powdery floral warmth.

Base Notes: Madagascar vanilla CO2, vanilla liqueur accord, Ambrofix, and sensual musks.’

Nishane Thorns Become Roses

When a rose is velvety and gorgeous but still displays its sharpness… This is by Julien Rasquinet, and inspired by the Rumi quote "With love, thorns become roses"

‘Thorns Become Roses is a contemporary, contrast-driven rose that embodies transformation, evolving from a vivid, luminous opening into an intense floral heart, and settling into a deep, enveloping woody amber trail. Crafted as an extrait de parfum, it redefines the rose through a balance of tension and softness, offering a structured yet sensual and evolving olfactive experience.

Lychee and raspberry, luminous and vibrant, meet the metallic sharpness of saffron and cardamom, evoking the harsh brilliance of noon light on Petra’s cliffs.

At its heart, Turkish rose unfolds with dense, velvety depth, held in contrast by the green-leathery facets of violet leaf and the powdery softness of mimosa. A rose both thorned and tender, asserting its beauty through contrast.

The base settles into a mineral, enduring trail of amberwood and patchouli, softened by creamy sandalwood. Here, tension gives way to a quiet radiance, neither sweet nor austere, but balanced, tactile, and lasting.

Top Notes: lychee, raspberry, saffron

Heart Notes: rose, mimosa, blackcurrant

Base Notes: patchouli, amberwood, aetoxylon’

FRAGRANT FOCUS:

AD: Estée Lauder Glimmer

Extraordinarily, this is the first new main line fragrance for 12 years, and the first ever gourmand style fragrance for the house! But Suzy and Nicola think that unmistakable Lauder DNA shines through. Indeed, this a scent that celebrates shining - finding your own light and the things that lift you every single day.

Dominique Ropion, Anne Flipo and Jean-Marc Chaillan are the incredible perfumers.

Top Notes: raspberry, orange blossom, milk mousse and mandarin

Heart Notes: Cashmeran, macarons, vanilla and rose

Base Notes: amber, tonka bean, sandalwood, patchouli and cedarwood.

Bright, sparkling and mouthwatering. Fruity-rosy raspberry, a fresh lift of mandarin, and a soft orange flower glow.

Warmer and more enveloping. Macaron Rose Accord comes forward with its gourmand impression, wrapped in the radiant depth of Amber Embrace Accord and Shimmering Patchouli, with a smooth, skin-warmed softness.

The fragrance settles into a lingering, addictive trail, a glowing blend of Amber, Patchouli, Woods and Tonka Bean notes. Still warmed by a whisper of sweetness that stays close and feels unforgettable.

Estée Lauder says:

This is the fragrance for life’s most extraordinary moments. It’s a scent not just to be worn, but to be felt, remembered, and shared. Because when you find what makes you glimmer, it lights up everyone around you.

For the full sizes, a beautiful rectangular bottle embodies femininity and strength. Sculpted semi-circles catch and reflect each ray of light. A circular gold-tone cap adds a luminous finish.

Travel Size:

The Travel Size is a deluxe mini fragrance spray. Perfect for on the go, to gift to a friend, or to try for the first time. 10ml travel size £25

Also comes in 30ml, 50ml & 100ml

GIVEAWAY:

We have a full size bottle of Glimmer to giveaway - see the post on our Instagram to enter!

How to enter: Follow both @onthescentpodcast and @esteelauderuk on Instagram, then like and comment on the giveaway post on our Instagram account. That’s it!

Entries must be made before 8.00 pm BST on Thursday, 3 September 2026. Because of delivery restrictions we can only accept entries from U.K. residents.

Terms & Conditions: One winner will receive one full-size bottle of Estée Lauder Glimmer Eau de Parfum. The prize is non-transferable, non-refundable, and cannot be exchanged for cash or an alternative product.

Winner selection: The winner will be selected at random using a random number generator from all eligible entries received by the closing date.

Notification: The winner will be contacted by direct message via Instagram within 7 days of the closing date. If they do not respond within 48 hours, the Promoter may select another winner at random.

Delivery: The prize will be posted to a U.K. address provided by the winner. The Promoter is not responsible for prizes lost or damaged in transit.

Good luck!

We’re hanging on to summer with the fragrance launches discussed, and in what we’re wearing this week, but there is a noticeable change in the weather here in the U.K. There have even been sightings of socks, jackets, cardigans and knee-high boots on the streets! A week ago, such items were unthinkable, but now we’re almost looking forward to the seasons changing again.

ALMOST, but not quite yet. Not when there’s a plethora of new perfume discoveries to delve in to (many of which will prove incredibly versatile in cooler weather anyway, we feel). Quite apart from some exquisite new fragrant finds to welcome Nicola back from holiday with, we’ve two more of your utterly brilliant Listener Prescriptions to answer, and an exciting update from Madeline – the musician / vineyard worker / medal-winning fighter we helped find new fragrances for last week!

In this week’s episode we discuss:

Jo Malone London Sea Salt & Bergamot

‘Plunge into the exhilarating surf of the Celtic Sea. Immersed in the wild waters, every wave carries a fresh minerality. Joining a burst of bergamot, driftwood anchors this sea-salt fresh scent. Experience the untamed beauty of the British coast.

Top Note: bergamot

(Brightens with its sparkling, citrus freshness)

Heart Note: sea salt

(The crunchy nature of sea salt accord brings both texture and a sense of freshness and purity to the heart of the fragrance)

Base Note: driftwood

(Suffused with the saltiness of the sea, this accord brings a light woodiness to the fragrance)’

Jo Malone London Iris & White Musk Cologne Intense (recommend to listener in last week’s episode seeking clean / soapy iris fragrances!) Harrods

‘The Iris and White Musk Cologne Intense from Jo Malone London is a light and airy scent that’s perfect for everyday use. It marries powdery iris with creamy white musk, resulting in a distinctive aroma that’s ideal for layering with other fragrances but can also be worn alone.’

Ex Nihilo Demon Dancer (Harrods)

‘Ex Nihilo recreates the defiant freedom of dance in motion.

Inviting you to move to your own rhythm, Ex Nihilo’s Demon Dancer is a call for ‘unapologetic self-expression’. Inspired by contemporary dance performance, the fragrance ignites an inner fire through energetic fruity notes that flow with freeing freshness and grounded intensity.

Top Notes: rhubarb, bergamot, peppermint, blood orange

Heart Notes: orange blossom, blackcurrant

Base Notes: georgywood, akigalawood, ambrofix, musks, tonka bean.’

Une Nuit Nomade Sun Bleached

‘Clean Linen Accord • White Flowers • Bergamot •Ambrette Absolute

Muscat, the capital of the Sultanate of Oman, also known as the White City.

The sun drowns the immaculate walls with its rays. It is a bright light that makes eyes squint. Omanis wander the streets, elegantly wearing their dishdashas, a long white tunic decorated with a pom-pom that is delicately dipped in perfume.

'Sun Bleached' is adorned with freshness, in an accord of clean linen, white flowers and a zesty flight of citrus fruits as if biting into a piece of orange, with white musks and sandalwood rounding off its explosiveness.’

Connock London Pelago

‘A sun-drenched Mediterranean fragrance with bright citrus and aromatic herbs, evoking the warmth of golden afternoons along sunlit shores.

Top Notes: orange, bergamot, lemon, mandarin, grapefruit.

Heart Notes: rosemary, neroli, petitgrain.

Base Notes: amber, vetiver.’

Roger & Gallet Neroli Solid Perfume

‘Discover your Néroli Wellbeing Fragrant Water in a new solid format to put on the neck, the neckline and the wrists. An alcohol-free perfume merging soflty with the skin. A new way to boost and facet your trail all day long. Enriched with rose essential oil, known for its relaxing benefits, the solid fragrance is a real caress onto the skin. Its rich and unctuous texture with vegetal waxes encapsulates the olfactive notes and keep the trail longer. A small and nomad format with an addictive gesture, to bring everywhere, wherever you are.’

French Cowboy Pear Pavlova

‘Almond, Ambrette Seeds, Jasmine, Meringue, Pear, Pink Pepper, Powdery Musk, Vanilla.

Ashley Santiago is the youngest perfumer at Givaudan and the co-founder of French Cowboy. California-born with Mexican-Caribbean roots, she honed her craft in Paris, New York & Singapore: blending global flavour with French savoir-faire.’

PERFUME PRESCRIPTIONS:

Update from Madeline (the musician / vineyard worker / medal-winning fighter from last week’s Correspondence Special episode):

‘OH MY GOODNESS GRACIOUS!!

Suzy and Nicola thankyou so so sooooo much for my prescription!!

When I saw that you had dropped a new episode WITH MY NAME IN THE NOTES I screamed!!!! It's perfect perfect PERFECT beyond words.

I have already ordered a bottle of the Map Of Hearts Valour and I am currently hunting for samples of the others you both suggested!!

I CANNOT wait to let you know how I go, l am so so sooooo excited to try them all!!’

(If we don’t have time this week: NEXT WEEK’S EPISODE, another Perfume Prescription special?)

Jessi - aka @grotesquex_o

‘hi suzy and nicola,

the day that you answered my cave perfume prescription was one of the best days of my life. i was hiking around the forest on a break at the museum in san francisco where i work, squealing and reveling in our shared zeal! ill remember the feeling forever. although i havent gotten my nose on that perfect perfume you found just yet, my sister and boyfriend know exactly what to get me for Christmas…

I’m writing to you humbly with the hope of another perfume prescription. i love cold incense perfumes, and found that my favorites (andrea maack craft and CDG avignon) have a chlorine note (to my nose at least, tho unlisted) that i crave. like the way your skin and hair smell after a swim in the pool, not the smell of sunscreen or tropical fruits that so often characterizes pool culture-inspired perfumes. are there any other cold, chlorinated, incense perfumes you love?’

Suzy’s Answer:

Serge Lutens L’Eau Froide

‘By Christopher Sheldrake. The fragrance features Sea water, Pepper, Mint, Musk, Incense, Olibanum, Ginger and Vetiver.’

‘"The situation was too hot for me to handle.” or “A chill ran down my spine.” I simply applied a similar concept to an Eau. The hero of this story is a tree during the dog days of summer. If an incision is made in its trunk, "tears of glass" come out. Without air conditioning, the heat would kill it. Frankincense helps this scent preserve an icy cool." - a note from the brand.’

Bibbi Swimming Pool

‘By Jérôme Epinette. Top notes are mint, basil and Ginger; middle notes are Eucalyptus and Geranium; base notes are Blonde Woods, Grass, White Wood, Ambroxan and Light Amber.

You completely forget about time and space when you swim in the pool. The water forces you to go through all the darkest hours and brightest moments of your life. After swimming in the pool, you will be forever changed and have an intense basil-like scent stuck to your skin forever.’

Heretic Nosferatu

‘SMELLS LIKE: An encounter with an apparition in the cold, damp caves of Count Orlok's castle.’

‘In partnership with Nosferatu and Focus Features, Heretic is proud to present Nosferatu Eau de Macabre, a fragrance inspired by the iconic vampire. A chilling scent of wilting lilacs, velvety vegan ambergris and strikes of lightning that fill the air with petrichor and electricity—It's both delicate and hedonistic. Samples available.

Top Notes: lilac, ambrette

Heart Notes: petrichor, violet absolute, orris concrete, cypriol

BASE: vegan ambergris, oudh, labdanum.’

Pip:

‘Hi Suzie and Nicola. I’m looking for a perfume prescription. I’ve had a bit of a rollercoaster year, my partner and I were lucky enough to have a little boy together after IVF and it’s been a really incredible (though exhausting!) time. One of my oldest and dearest friends died a month before we had him and there’s not a day that goes by where I don’t think about her. I’m incredibly sad that we never got to share any of our boy mum moments together. She was always so positive though and down to earth, and I want to remember her with happiness, as well as have a comforting fragrance that will make me think of my little boy when he’s older and him of me. My memories of my friend when we were growing up together are scented with incense, books and the sticky floors of rock bars! I like vanilla, sandalwood and scents that have a bit of smoke. Thanks so much and thank you for keeping me company on my particularly sleep deprived days, I love listening to you both! Pip x’

Suzy’s answer:

The Perfumer’s Story Old Books by Azzi

‘Character: intelligent, eccentric, rock & roll.’

‘incense, books and the sticky floors of rock bars! I like vanilla, sandalwood and scents that have a bit of smoke.

This character is intelligent, warm – something quite turn of the century about it, a Dickensian style with a twist of rock and roll.

It whispers to you when you wear it and also to those around you by the incredible ingredients of Frankincense, Olibanum, Myrrh, and Elemi with a loyal accord of Patchouli, Amber, Vetivert and Cedar.

With an air of tenancity, this perfume is like a good book you just can’t put down.

Packaged in its own special scent storybook with bookmark.’

(Mini spray from £23)

Olfiction Lab Editions Librido

‘A torrid affair with the printed word. Evoking the glue of book bindings, fresh ink from glossy magazines, new and worn paperbacks and aged leather-bound tomes. A romanticised moment – catching eyes with an impossibly handsome librarian or bookseller.

If perfume be the food of love, spray on.

The formula explores the perfumer’s obsession with books and libraries, a result of hundreds of trials to capture the impression of paper, evolving into a well-stocked library as the ultimate book lovers’ scent.

NOTES / SCENT IMPRESSIONS

Fresh ink, new magazines, spicy accord, lemon

paper, papyrus, new books, rectified cedarwood, iris

Old paperbacks, leatherbound books, sandalwood Australia, ambergris infusion, orris, musk.’

£50 for 15ml

Byredo Bibliothèque

‘

Norfolk Natural Living Annotations Parfum

‘Time stretches in that particular way it does when you’re absorbed. The warmth builds gently. Your skin warms under the glass. The scent of books deepens: paper, leather, that faint resinous sweetness that only appears when things have been left alone long enough. Balsams and benzoin gather quietly in the background, smoothing everything out, and then oud arrives, unshowy, steady. It doesn’t darken the room. It holds it. It smells like confidence built slowly, thought layered upon thought.

By the time you look up, you feel held inside a quietly luminous world. Full of asides. Full of small, private understandings. The sort of place where nothing has to prove itself, and everything feels, somehow, meant just for you.’

Top Notes: cedarwood, bergamot, lemon essential oil,

Heart Notes: rose absolute, coriander seed,

Base Notes: oudh, balsam of Peru, benzoin resin, patchouli