On The Scent

We cannot tell you how much we LOVE receiving your questions and requests for

‘perfume prescriptions’ (something we’ve always specialised in at On the Scent

Podcast – it brings us such joy being able to match people to perfumes they’d

perhaps never tried or even heard of). And we get a LOT of DMs

@onthescentpodcast on Instagram, and messages on our On the Scent private

Facebook group, so here we are dedicating an episode to do a deep dive on two

fascinating fragrant conundrums...

Sometimes the prescription requests we get are to help find a ‘replacement’ for a

beloved signature scent that’s since been discontinued – to which we say, there’s

probably never going to be an exact match, but we can definitely guide you toward

trying some scents that match the vibe, the feeling that fragrance gave you when

you wore it, and the way it slotted into your life like a puzzle piece. We also get a

lot of requests for very specific scenarios, sometimes quite abstract themes or

intimate moments our listeners are seeking to scent! But when we think about

them more broadly, there’s ways of applying these scenarios (and the things the

listener needs to take from them: strength, motivation, comfort, energy...) to

aspects of our own lives.

In this correspondence special, we begin with some lovely feedback from a listener

who made a new discovery via a previous prescription suggestion, then we dive into

the two new requests, which are equally intriguing, and really showcase the kinds

of questions we get so many of and adore researching (often for hours!) to find the

perfect perfumes for.

Let’s begin!

Joanna said:

‘Dear Suzy and Nicola,

I can’t thank you enough for your amazing affordable iris prescriptions! Both sound

incredible and I will be definitely be hunting them down, especially Fragonard Belle

de Paris!

I especially want to thank you for your reviews of the new M&S perfumes. That

episode came out shortly before my trip to England from the States, and I

immediately added M&S to the itinerary! And WOW…Sheer Musk and Darkest

Vanilla are incredible! M&S perfumes are unavailable in America, so had my trip

been just a couple of weeks earlier I would have been completely out of luck, as I

would never have considered exploring M&S as a perfume haven without your

expert recommendation. I humbly beg you to do full reviews of the rest of the

Studio lineup! I feel that the interests of promoting truly exquisite super-affordable,

unique fragrances warrant such a podcast focus. Thank you for all you do for the

fragrance community!!’

Listener prescriptions:

Netta asks:

‘Hi! I recently discovered your podcast and I’m absolutely loving it. I’ve been binge

listening and enjoying every episode!!

I’ve always been obsessed with fragrance and smelling good, so it feels like I’ve

finally found my people.

I was wondering if you could recommend a perfume that’s similar to the

discontinued Armani Privé Pierre de Lune. I absolutely loved it and have never

managed to find anything that captures the same feeling. It had such a clean, soft,

almost soapy quality while still feeling fresh and elegant. I’d be so grateful for any

recommendations! Many thanks in advance, Netta.’

Daniela Andrier (well known for her love of iris) created Pierre de Lune, featuring

violet, iris, cassia & woody notes.

Suzy suggests:

Prada Infusion d’Iris

‘This modern and elegant fragrance opens with notes of mandarin, galbanum,

orange and orange blossom which lead to the heart composed of iris, cedar and

vetiver. The base is composed of incense and benzoin.’

Fragonard Belle de Paris

Another stunning iris scent by Daniela Andrier. And only £42 for 100ml eau de

toilette! ‘Belle de paris is elegantly cloaked in iris, a symbol of chic, and wears its

incomparable scent. Its fruity head notes of green mandarin, neroli, and pear

brighten a generous heart of iris absolutely adorned with violet and incense. Musk

and white cedar form its base.’

27 87 Per sē

‘Per sē is our scent identity and the olfactive translation of our core belief: There is

No Scent Like the Present. It combines the now. The achromatic, and the individual

in a sensory experience.

“In creating Per sē, we aimed to capture the very essence of the present moment.

This fragrance is unparalleled; it ebbs and flows with the dynamism of change, yet

its core remains strikingly constant. Just as time never stops, neither does ‘Per sē’.

It serves as evidence of the enduring within the ever-changing.”

Crafting a symphony of achromatic elegance, Per sē is composed of a floral

bouquet, orris butter, and violet leaves. Juxtaposed with clean aldehydes, bamboo,

and a pinch of spicy pepper, a subtle underscore of ambrette seeds, angelica roots,

and gentle musk complete the incompletable experience of the sensory now.’

Nicola suggested:

Diptyque Fleur de Peau

‘A tribute to the mythical love between Psyche and Eros, which led to the birth of

their daughter, Hedone. One scent can convey this legend: musks. At the heart of

Fleur de Peau, they are cottony, downy or soft. Highlighted with iris and ambrette

seed, they reveal their full tactile dimension.

Absolute ambrette seed extract comes from hibiscus flowers. Its notes are

extraordinarily rich: sweet, slightly animal, fruity (like pear and plum).’

Madeline @rocknrollgypsy_13 asks:

‘Hello Suzy and Nicola! Fragrance goddesses!

Long time listener of the pod, I work on a vineyard in the Hunter Valley NSW

Australia and listening to both of you have gotten me through some long, long days

working by myself. My name is Madeleine and I was wondering if you could give me

a perfume prescription to empower and ground me.

Apart from being a musician, one of my other passions is Muay Thai. As a female

fighter I compete quite regularly, recently coming back from a life changing trip to

Bangkok where I competed at the WBC games winning a silver medal for Australia.

It was a tough fight and I know I could’ve done more to win that gold, but my mind

always seems to stop me before I even step over the ropes. My mentality is

something I always battle with, self-doubt, self-confidence and self-belief is always

what I struggle with. This is a weird kind of prescription, but I would like something

to wear before my fights, something that is empowering, fires me up, grounds me

and makes me feel like I am an unstoppable force going into the ring to face my

opponent. Think a goddess of war, powerful, strong, unbreakable and fierce.

Something to spray on before I warm up, or walk into the ring that grounds me,

centres me and reminds me of who I am.

I am open to anything, as my love for perfume has grown so much since listening

to you both. Much love always, thank you for all you do.

Madeleine xx’

Nicola’s answer:

Olfactive O New Earth

‘I am the host who cooks to the rhythm of the seasons, the one who pulls up an

extra chair before you’ve even asked. I believe in the beauty of things made by

hand - the thumbprint in the clay, the worn-in softness of a family heirloom. There

is quiet joy in walking the same path every day and noticing the first green shoots

of change. For me, luxury resides in the weight of a heavy linen shirt and the

simple, rhythmic task of chopping herbs from the windowsill pot. I am a life lived in

the present tense.

NOTES:

Luminous top: shiso, pink peppercorn, spearmint, elemi Present heart: deep-leaf

immersion, armoise, geranium, chamomile blue, cardamom, clary sage Rooted

base: hay absolute, fir balsam, oakmoss, myrrh

MOMENTS:

Nurturing my sourdough starter Fantasising of a life in the wilderness Leaving the

bookshop with just one more A cup of tea in the garden Seeking out the perfect

soulful escape’

Amouage Meander

‘The Amouage Meander eau de parfum explores the exhilarating feeling of

happiness in a land covered by fog – think lush green mountains and running

waterfalls covered in steamy clouds. Translating this surreal landscape using notes

of frankincense and vetiver, the rich greenery with cypriol and jonquille, and the

caramel-hued earth with sandalwood, carrot heart and orris root, this unique

fragrance captivates the senses and doesn’t let go even hours after being spritzed

on the pulses.’

Suzy’s answer:

Eris Parfums Ma Bête

‘MA BÊTE (My Beast) caresses you with the suggestiveness of perfumed fur. A

collision of the floral and the animal, MA BÊTE combines a regal Tunisian Neroli with

spices and a 50 percent overdose of Antoine Lie's own animalic cocktail.’

‘Ma Bête is a fierce beast with raunchy elegance.’ – Antoine Lie (Perfumer)

Aldehydes, Tunisian Neroli, Indian Nutmeg

Indian Cypriol, Honduran Styrax, Indian Jasmine Sambac

Virginia Cedarwood, Indonesian Patchouli, Synthetic Animalic Accord

‘After interviewing Master Perfumer Antoine Lie for Scent and Subversion, Barbara

asked him to help her create a collection of fragrances as bold as her favourite

vintage perfumes but for a modern audience.

Named after ERIS, the Greek goddess of troublemaking and disruption, ERIS

PARFUMS is inspired by muses — divine, human, and fragrant — that exemplify

unconventional beauty and subversive glamour.’

Sora Dora Brocéliande

‘Brocéliande is a bewitching, mystical concentrate. Delightful with its citrus entrance

and sweet notes on a caramel and cinnamon undertone, Broceliande then reveals a

fragrance of indecipherable power. Let yourself be seduced by the full bark of the

oak casks. As it dries, the bark reveals gentle whisky aromas. Deep down, the juice

settles into a desirable, musky mystery. Combining the power of the forest with the

magic of the animal world, SORADORA sign Broceliande like a wild, secret blend

that calls forth and stirs up our most unpredictable instincts. Here's to your

impulses.

Fragrance Notes

Italian Bergamot Essence, Lime Essence, Lemon Essence, Ginger Essence,

Coriander Seeds Essence, Ceylon Cinnamon Essence, Iris, Sesame, CO2 extracts,

Castoreum, Civet, Styrax Pyrogene Essence, Vanilla, Caramel, and Rum’

Map of the Heart Purple Heart

‘Inspired by the Purple Heart medal, awarded for acts of valour, this fragrance

salutes courage in all its forms. Anyone can be a hero in their day-to-day life, and

even the smallest of courageous gestures can make a big difference.

Flipping the olfactory pyramid upside down, The Heart of Valour opens in a darker

place, then moves towards the light. Sometimes all it takes is an act of courage to

move from dark to light, because the fragrance then opens up into a luminous,

optimistic and unique scent. A heroic and unique journey, an ultimately sumptuous

and rewarding scent.

Top: Black Plum, Black Cherry Middle: Salty Liquorice, Violet, Purple Rose Base:

Amber, Australian Sandalwood

PERFUMER Jacques Huclier

HOW IT WEARS The Purple Heart opens with rich, sweet, sumptuous black plum

and black cherry, then as it settles, the other notes begin to sparkle through. The

earthy violet and purple rose are complemented by the salty liquorice which adds a

real sense of intrigue to the fragrance. The longevity of The Purple Heart is

amazing, it lasts at least 8 hours on the skin, settling into a much softer and

smoother fragrance as the hours go by.’

Okay, we all know vanilla has been trending for ages now, but WHY does it prove

so popular? We think half the reason is the sheer diversity of vanillas available,

and the incredibly high-quality materials perfumers are able to use these days.

Plus the fact that vanilla continues to be one of the most universally adored

scents. Love them or loathe them, we feel sure there’s truly something for every

taste (and maybe some that will surprise or even shock you) in this week’s

episode...

Now, obviously, we mean five favourites *each*, we couldn’t possibly contain

them all to only five vanillas when there are SO many excellent varieties of

vanilla fragrances around these days. We have to say, though, f you’re a vanilla

naysayer, please don’t shy away from this episode, as we’ve versions that segue

from the just-launched and fabulously tobacco-filled, the sweetly tempting and

addictive you might expect, to the mind-blowingly modern and unlike any vanilla

you’ve ever smelled.

Encompassing hip-swivelling seduction, a stunning body butter, hugely powerful

fragrant talismans, and summery every-day wearability, there’s also a truly

affordable modern classic vanilla – created by a Master Perfumer who trained at

Chanel, created scents for Frederic Malle, Guerlain, Gucci, Amouage and

Atkinsons, but THIS one can be snapped up for under £30!

While some of our top vanillas crossed over, we also surprised each other with

some of our choices. Now then, which have YOU tried or want to go and smell

after listening...?

We discuss:

D’Orsay Vanilla Affair Extrait

By Nathalie Lorson

‘Immerse yourself in the captivating mystique of D’ORSAY, with Vanilla Affair

extrait de parfum transforming your everyday allure into one of intriguing

elegance.

Its scent – reminiscent of forbidden encounters and fierce passion – is infused

with riveting notes of tobacco and tonka bean, deepened with a vanilla duo, and

grounded with a smoky base of white musks and patchouli. No matter the

occasion, its aromatic blend of exhilarating notes will elevate your essence with

ease.’

The Body Shop Vanilla Body Butter

‘This indulgent cream melts in beautifully, delivering up to 96 hours of hydration

without greasiness. Skin feels instantly softer, smoother and cared for. The

fragrance opens with juicy nashi pear and fresh coconut water, lifted by mood

orchid. At its heart, rich Madagascar vanilla tincture blends with upcycled vanillin

ex rice, creamy milk and heliotrope for a smooth, enveloping warmth. It settles

into a sensual base of vanilla absolute, sandalwood and second skin musk for a

long lasting, skin hugging finish. Every application is a warm, comforting routine.’

Jovoy Fire at Will

‘This perfume’s sweet promises echo around your like languorous kisses.

Crafted by independent perfumer Vanina Murraciole, Fire at Will eau de parfum

from JOVOY explores the duality of vanilla and mimosa – at once intense yet

subtle, seductive yet enchanting. The opening reveals an unexpected vanilla: airy

and ethereal, lifted by honeyed, powdery mimosa. As it evolves, the vanilla

becomes more gourmand and fruity, evoking the delicacy of real vanilla ice

cream while lingering with the allure of whispered promises.’

Top Notes: Mimosa Absolut, Vanilla Absolut

Middle Notes: Vanilla Sugar, Brown Sugar

Base Notes: White Musks, Amber Vetiver

Maison Louis Marie No.15 Vanille Infinie

‘Vanille Infinie, a luxurious and sweet gourmand, is a celebration of hope and

renewal. No.15 Vanille Infinie unfolds as a warm, luminous composition, soft vanilla

layered with citron, sugared amber and cashmere oud for gentle resinous warmth.

The Eau de Parfum evolves naturally on skin, shifting with your body heat to reveal

a smooth, enveloping trail that feels both intimate and enduring.’

Jeroboam Insulo

‘For François Hénin, the founder of Jeroboam, vanilla has always been the

absolute weapon of seductive souls. The ingredient is recognized throughout the

world as an irresistible enticement to be devoured. Insulo (meaning ‘island’ in

Esperanto) is used in this case as a code name for Madagascar, the island which

produces perhaps the highest quality and most famous vanilla in the world.

The olfactive pyramid of Insulo is incredibly simple with vanilla at the top, jasmine

at the heart and the signature blend of enigmatic musks at the base. These few

notes combine to produce a luxurious and irresistible.’

AKRO Bake

‘Bake is our addictive cupcake fragrance.

Everyone has their own favourite sweet treat, and for Akro, it's the small, but

perfectly delicious lemon cupcake—an item we just can’t resist any time we walk

past a good bakery. To honour our favourite cupcakes, we created BAKE, a

gourmand fragrance made up of Tart Lemon notes, followed by sweet Vanilla and

rich, nutty Praline. BAKE is so good, you might not need that second cupcake

after all.

TOP: Lemon peel

MIDDLE: Chantilly cream, Praline

BASE: Brown sugar, Vanilla.’

Matiere Premiere Vanilla Powder

‘A sophisticated take on vanilla, diffusing like a bright, soft cloud. I contrasted

dark vanilla absolute with an overdose of modern white perfumer powders — as

if the vanilla bean had been painted white.

Palo Santo Oil Ecuador brings structure and verticality. The addictive character of

Vanilla is reinforced by Coconut powder. White Musks envelop the Vanilla and

powders for a contemporary, luminous perfume.’ - Aurélien Guichard

Rochas Tocade

One of THE best vanillas if you’re on a budget. Or even if you’re not, come to

that!

‘Originally launched in 1994, and composed by Maurice Roucel, Rochas Tocade

opens with a vibrant burst of bergamot and green notes, setting the stage for a

heart that blooms with the rich aromas of rose, geranium, and magnolia. These

floral elements are beautifully balanced by the warmth of vanilla and amber,

creating a harmonious blend that is both sensual and inviting. The base notes of

musk and cedarwood add depth and longevity, ensuring that this enchanting

fragrance lingers on your skin throughout the day.’

Season 8, Episode 7 Alice du Parcq & The Philosophy of Perfume (her

NEW BOOK!)

This week we welcome back dear perfume pal and friend of the pod (star of two

previous episodes), the multi-award-winning fragrance writer, presenter, content

creator and now AUTHOR, Alice du Parcq!

Alice has always been ‘on a mission to decode perfume in a fun, relatable and

objective way.’ Now, added to her perfumed portfolio will be an incredibly gift-

able (to self or scent-loving friends) book, created in collaboration with none

other than The British Library, called The Philosophy of Perfume. Out in October,

we cannot WAIT to read it, and in this episode, Alice gives us a sneak peek at

what you expect to find inside, plus the entire story of how the book came to be,

and why she burst into tears in a library.

We’ve even managed to wangle a must-sniff list of perfumes Alice has been

wowed by so far this year (not in the book, just a little scented extra to get you

scurrying to smell them). We loved this warm, emotive, wide-ranging

conversation and, as ever, could have talked to Alice for hours longer, and we so

hope you enjoy this deep dive into one of the most hotly anticipated books for

some time...

Some context about the British Library and this collection:

‘The British Library has an in-house publishing division, and they have an

established collection of around 18 books called "The Philosophy Of...". It's a

family of small giftable books that cover fun and whimsical lifestyle topics, such

The Philosophy of Cheese, The Philosophy of Christmas of Gin, of

Tattoos and of Houseplants, where an expert in that specific field dives into the

origins and evolution of that subject. In January, I was invited to do The

Philosophy of Perfume and it will sit within this collection but as a slightly

longer and more standout format. It's out in October, in time for the gifting

season, and the RRP is £12.99.’

About the book:

‘The Philosophy of Perfume is a fun, warm, thoughtful and practical book all

about fragrance, which looks at its origins and how it's made, how we smell and

how best to shop for perfume. It is an adventure into the facts, folklore and

fantasies surrounding perfume, delving into how it has evolved through the eras

and decades as an artform, reflecting our cultural patterns through history. In

the book, you'llmeet perfumers who share insights into their fascinating creative

process; you'll learn the science behind how we smell and the wild emotional

voyage from smell to soul! There are tales of scented superstitions, and the

literary and historical figures who inspire perfume, plus the ways in which AI is

impacting the future of fragrance and a helpful guide on how to shop for

perfume and find The One(s!).

It was so important to me that this book was not for perfume experts, but for

fragrance lovers of all ages who want a moment of enchantment laced with

interesting facts, a sprinkle of science and some practical guidance when on their

next scent shopping safari.’

Can’t wait until October? You can see Alice talking live, interviewed by the

wonderful Amanda Carr (founder of Barnes Fragrance Fair @barnesfragrancefair)

at the Barnes Bookfest sat 26 th September at 6pm, and get tickets and more

info here: https://barnesbookfest.org/

Fragrances Alice has adored so far this year:

Pia Long’s Olfiction Iconic (by name and nature! An utterly staggering vision of

1980s department stores, expensive makeup and body creams – nostalgia

personified)

Botega Venetta’s new Ulta collection (especially Bare Morning which Alice

feels is the longest-lasting most comforting powdery scent she’s smelled for

years)

Hellenist (all of them basically – a stunning house Suzy first saw at Pitti

Fragranze, and which we all very much hope will be available in U.K. soon)

Neal’s Yard Remedies Mood Awakening Collection (Alice loved how true

these felt to the brand’s ethos, and how they slotted so perfectly into their most

beloved collections)

Ode Ona (all of them, again – an exquisitely crafted and curated collection, all

worth exploring)

This week is a truly madcap sniffathon HOPEFULLY encompassing [*takes a

deep breath*] wild seascapes, fragrant ghosts and a notorious rake; a spicy

summer scent to set your senses tingling; a fruity treat based on a perfumer’s

favourite breakfast; a splendiferous peacock strutting its scented stuff; a stunning

sueded rose; perfumes pulled straight from the vegetable patch; Harrods

exclusives to swoon over; a seriously affordable new niche house; a mesmerising

myrrh, and Alice du Parcq’s book pre-order discount code…

AND if all that wasn’t enough, we’re also answering a #listenerprescription for a

jasmine fragrance to remind her of a dance while wearing jasmine garlands.

Phew!

Can we possibly fit it all in without going off-topic? Listen along and find out!

BeauFort London continued: Following on from last week’s fascinating interview

with founder Leo Crabtree, Nicola tries a trio of intriguing scents:

Cape Wrath

‘Cape Wrath Eau De Parfum. Named after the rugged area of coastline on the

most North Westerly tip of Britain, Cape Wrath pulls inspiration from this wild,

treacherous seascape. The remote landmark - named after the old Norse word

for ‘turning point’ has for centuries been used by sailors to safely navigate the

coast of Britain, yet its treacherous waters have claimed countless vessels.

Character: Powerful; wild; windswept

 THE WEARING EXPERIENCE

Top Notes: Pink Pepper, Elemi, Galbanum, Angelica Root
Opens with a blast of

bracing ocean air.

Heart Notes: Frankincense, Mastic, Geranium
Resinous smoke and geranium

add both warmth and austerity.

Base Notes: Ambergris, Vetiver, Ambrette, Seaweed, Oakmoss

Absolute
Mossy oceanic base which powerfully lingers.

Perfumer: Euan McCall

Absent Presence

‘‘O absent presence, Stella is not here’

The fifth and final instalment of the Revenants collection draws inspiration from

the Elizabethan poet Sir Philip Sidney. In his Sonnet sequence ‘Astrophel and

Stella’ Sidney develops and captures the essence of a haunting… the presence

of one that is always felt but never seen.

‘Now I, wit-beaten long by hardest fate,

So dull am, that I cannot look into

The ground of this fierce love and lovely hate,

Then some good body tell me how I do,

Whose presence absence, absent presence is;

Blesst in my curse, and cursed in my bliss.’

Comprising the highest level of natural ingredients of any BeauFort fragrance,

Absent Presence explores its themes with typically ‘overdosed’ concentrations of

violet leaf absolute, vetiver bourbon oil, smoky leather and black pepper oil. As

with all the Revenants family, Absent Presence is presented as 30% Eau De

Parfum.

Character: Dark; enveloping; waves.

THE WEARING EXPERIENCE

Top Notes: Bergamot, Galbanum, Pepper
Fresh, green, and fleeting felt but out

of reach.

Heart Notes: Jasmine, Violet
 Jasmine and violet bloom with intensity.

Base Notes: Leather, Sandalwood, Musk, Amber, Cedarwood 
Warm leather,

woods, amber and musk linger like a ghost on the skin, the violet heart returning

in waves.

Perfumer: Julie Dunkley.’

Rake & Ruin

‘Rake & Ruin Eau De Parfum is inspired by the works of satirist William Hogarth,

this fragrance summons his characters from a gin soaked 18th century London.

This debauched Eau De Parfum incorporates the botanical ingredients of gin;

dark woods, civet, musks and amber bringing to life 'all manner of Vice and

Wickedness.’

THE WEARING EXPERIENCE

Top Notes: Angelica, Liquorice, Juniper, Coriander, Szechuan Pepper, Pink

Pepper, Orange, Lemon
Opens with a sharp, gin-like freshness, spiced and

effervescent.

Heart Notes: Cypress, Pine Needles, Castoreum, Labdanum, Cade Oil, Costus,

Violet Orris
Bowing to a heart of smoky woods, animalic tones and powdered

florals.

Base Notes: Dark Woods, Ambrarome, Sandalwood, Musk
Dark woods, musk

and animalic. Ambrarome complete the seductive yet slightly sinister finish.’

Alice du Parcq’s book: The Philosophy of Perfume

Pre-order at Waterstones for £10 (25% off with code SUMMER26)

https://tinyurl.com/AliceWaterstones

‘The Philosophy of Perfume is a fun, warm, thoughtful and practical book all

about fragrance, which looks at its origins and how it's made, how we smell and

how best to shop for perfume. It is an adventure into the facts, folklore and

fantasies surrounding perfume, delving into how it has evolved through the eras

and decades as an artform, reflecting our cultural patterns through history. In the

book, you'll meet perfumers who share insights into their fascinating creative

process; you'll learn the science behind how we smell and the wild emotional

voyage from smell to soul! There are tales of scented superstitions, and the

literary and historical figures who inspire perfume, plus the ways in which AI is

impacting the future of fragrance and a helpful guide on how to shop for perfume

and find The One(s!). 

It was so important to me that this book was not for perfume experts, but for

fragrance lovers of all ages who want a moment of enchantment laced with

interesting facts, a sprinkle of science and some practical guidance when on their

next scent shopping safari.’

AKRO Heat

‘HEAT is our addictive chili fragrance.

Chili is not just a spice. It is a rush. A burn you think you can handle. The first

time you smell it, it hits, it wakes you up. Then it warms you. Then you want it

again.

The best chili doesn’t just flavour. It ignites. It makes your skin tingle. Your

temperature rise. Your pulse quicken. Your senses sharpen.

HEAT is that moment when warmth turns into craving. When your body asks for

more. A vibrant indulgence. A dopamine shot you keep coming back to.

HEAT is a scent that sets you on fire and makes you love the burn.

TOP: CORIANDER SEED, LEMON, RED CHILI

MIDDLE: CARDAMOM, GINGER, JUNIPER

BASE: CEDARWOOD, AMBROX, MUSK.’

Jeroboam Oud Morning

By Vanina Muracciole

‘Oud Morning from Jeroboam is the perfect balance of brightness and depth.

Opening with an unexpected burst of blueberry, saffron and resins, the

composition moves into a heart of Indian oud, softened with leather and aged

woods. Sandalwood, ambroxan and white musk anchor it into a smooth, sensual

base, finishing the creation on an intimate note.

Top Notes: Blueberry, Gurjum Balsam, Saffron

Middle Notes: Indian Oudh, Leather, Dry Wood, Violet

Base Notes: Sugar, Sandalwood, Cedarwood, White Musks.’

Alexandre J Royal Peacock (Harrods Exclusive)

‘At the turn of the 20th century, Art Nouveau reshaped the decorative arts.

Mucha, Gallé, Tiffany, Lalique, all drew on nature to invent a new grammar of

curves, stylised plants and extraordinary birds. Among them,

the peacock reigned supreme: its iridescent eyes and regal bearing embodied

the movement's core belief in beauty for beauty's sake.

The opening evokes an Italian espresso served with Viennese pastry. Roasted

coffee dialogues with hazelnut in a frankly gourmand accord, before maple

syrup brings its unmistakable amber roundness, sweet without cloying, almost

woody. Caramel amplifies the indulgence, while violet casts a powdery floral veil

that keeps the composition from tipping into excess. The vanilla-almond base

settles into a lasting, addictive warmth.’

Ormonde Jayne Suede Silhouette

‘Bathed in crimson and violet, Suede Silhouette reflects the warmth of saffron,

the richness of raspberry and the quiet confidence of suede. Exclusively at

Selfridges.’

Jo Malone London Veggies collection:

Celine Roux says: ‘We just loved that people, even in the middle of cities like

London, can grow their own carrots and herbs – the fact that everyone wants to

have a grasp on nature from wherever they are. This [collection] takes that idea

of something homegrown and unmanicured but gives it a fresh take’

Velvety Butternut:

‘The path ahead is smooth, just like a velvety butternut playfully plucked from the

veggie patch. Notes of smooth butternut, warm tonka bean and patchouli create

a woody gourmand scent.

Top - Ginger

Spicy and fresh with a zingy lemon quality, it opens the fragrance with lively

brightness.

Heart - Butternut

Smooth and nutty, notes of butternut imbues the fragrance with a delicious

warmth and creaminess.

Base - Patchouli

Grounded in patchouli, a sensuously deep woody note that enhances the

longevity of the fragrance.’

Carrot Blossom:

‘Life is sweet, just like carrot blossom gloriously gathered from the veggie patch.

Notes of subtly sweet carrot, orange flower and white musk create a fresh floral

scent.

Top - Fennel

Herbaceous with hints of aniseed, it adds a dewy sweetness to the top notes.

Heart - Carrot Blossom

Lightly floral and sweet, with an earthy accent, complementing the powdery notes

of orris.

Base - Patchouli

Grounded in patchouli, a sensuously deep woody note that enhances the

longevity of the fragrance.’

Suzy’s favourite: Scarlet Beetroot

‘Colour is all around, just like a scarlet beetroot splendidly spied in the veggie

patch. Notes of beetroot, vibrant blackcurrant and a dash of patchouli create a

delicious fruity scent.

Top - Blackcurrant

Intensely juicy and ripe, it gives a crisp edge to the fragrance.

Heart - Beetroot

An accord that captures the naturalness of freshly cut beetroot combined with an

earthy texture.

Base - Patchouli

Grounded in patchouli, a sensuously deep woody note that enhances the

longevity of the fragrance.’

Jo Malone London Cologne Intense Harrods exclusives x 2:

Iris & White Musk

‘The Iris and White Musk Cologne Intense from Jo Malone London is a light and

airy scent that’s perfect for everyday use. It marries powdery iris with creamy

white musk, resulting in a distinctive aroma that’s ideal for layering with other

fragrances but can also be worn alone.

Fragrance Notes: Casablanca, White Musk, Vanilla.’

Rose & Oud Leather

‘A magnetic floral scent that blends smoky leather with oud.

Enduringly at the forefront of luxury perfumery, Jo Malone London presents the

Rose and Oud Leather Cologne Intense. The captivating fragrance is a tribute to

the prevailing beauty of the flower and is brought to life by additional notes of

patchouli and amber.

Top Notes: Oud, Leather

Middle Notes: Damask Rose

Base Notes: Patchouli, Amber.’

Idiom fragrances pop-up shop - 33 Great Windmill Street, Soho: open until

July 26th (but stay tuned for news of a permanent boutique soon!)

All the fragrances are layerable, and only £38 for 30ml eau de parfum. (Suzy’s

favourite combo is Acoustic Rose / Pepper Solstice / 3D Amplifier). In the

meantime: try a discovery kit of them all for £35.

Idiom

33 Great Windmill Street

Mon-Sat 12pm-7pm

Sun 12pm-5pm

idiomfragrances.com

Ella K Myrrh K

‘Myrrh K is a fragrance that reconciles indulgence with the sacred. It opens with

sundrenched florals and bitter almond, then melts into a tender sweetness —

Omani halwa, honey, toasted sesame, and golden saffron. Among the top notes,

the rose of Jebel Akhdar — fresh, pure, hand-picked in the mountains of Oman

— brings a subtle sophistication to the composition.

Its delicate rosewater nuance blends with the sweet halwa accord, enriching the

gourmandise with floral refinement. It acts like a red thread, linking flower to

resin, the floral to the sacred.

At the heart, a soft, luminous myrrh creates a bond between resin and skin. The

base wraps itself around roasted tonka bean, Madagascar vanilla, and warm

woods, leaving a deep and caressing trail.’

Bon Parfumeur at Jovoy: 005 Riviera Absolue

‘A convertible on the coastal road. The Mediterranean stretching endlessly

ahead. Wind in the hair, sun on the skin. 005 Riviera Absolue is all of this distilled

into three notes. A hesperidic aromatic extract by Paul Guerlain for Bon

Parfumeur.

The opening is an immediate and striking spark: Caviar Lemon, an Australian

citrus with juicy micro-beads, whose citrus vivacity and lightly floral brightness

are infinitely more precise and intense than classic lemon, explodes on the skin

with an almost electric freshness. No roundness, no conventional sweetness:

simply the sharp purity of an exceptional citrus, like the first ray of sunlight on

water in the morning. An opening that awakens instantly and resembles nothing

else.

At the heart, Ginger Essence takes over with a spiced, lightly citrus vivacity that

naturally extends the momentum of the opening. Sharp without burning, aromatic

without weighing down, ginger gives Riviera Absolue its characteristic energy. A

heart that sustains the tension and brightness of the opening while adding a

warm, spiced and discreetly aromatic depth.

At the base, Tomato Leaf signs Riviera Absoluewith its most unexpected and

most defining touch. Green, lightly tart, fresh and subtly bitter, it anchors the

fragrance in something resolutely vegetal and organic, entirely free of

conventional woody or ambered bases. It is this final note that transforms a spark

of freshness into an infinite memory: the scent of wild roadside vegetation,

caught at full speed, impossible to hold and impossible to forget.’

Listener prescription:

Geraldine asks:

‘Lovely ladies, thank you for all you continue to do, the joy you bring and your

inspirational content. I have another scent prescription for you inspired by your

recent Patreon episode on scents which remind people of special holiday places.

As a young girl I grew up in the Middle East and remember the smell of flower

garlands round my neck as part of a local dance I learned. The garlands were

mostly of jasmine and I adored Ostens Jasmine Impressions which transported

me back there. Sadly I've finished my Ostens bottle and can't find a replacement

anywhere. My mission for you this time is do you know of anywhere who stocks it

that can deliver to the UK please? Alternatively can you recommend some other

jasmine realistic fragrances I could try please? Thank you so much once again,

love Geraldine xxx’

ANSWER:

Last remaining Ostens fragrances / candles we know of available at Boots and

online (for delivery or Click & Collect) Sadly no jasmine perfume, but the Jasmine

candles are still there while stocks last! It MIGHT be worth trying the Boots niche

fragrance boutique at Broadgate shopping centre East London…?

https://www.boots.com/ostens

https://broadgate.co.uk/eatdrinkshop/boots-fragrance/

NYITA JASMIA™ Body Oil

‘Exquisitely scented with Enfleurage Jasmine to capture the full complexity of the

original flower. A blend of 11 nutrient-rich, cold-pressed, organic oils, super-

charged with our Power Plant Infusion™ . The Ultimate Seed Elixir will intensely

nourish your skin leaving it feeling firmer and remarkably radiant.

High in the Andes Mountains, our artisan jasmine growers employ an extremely

rare, Ancient Egyptian technique called ‘enfleurage’ to extract the essential oil for

this treasured body oil.

Enfleurage has almost vanished from modern perfumery today due to its time

consuming nature and cost.

Every day, for over a month, fresh jasmine petals are meticulously layered on

organic vegetable wax, painstakingly added by hand. Once the desired scent is

reached, it is then rinsed with an organic alcohol and the precious jasmine

essential oil is extracted.

Too delicate a flower to steam-distil, almost all jasmine is currently extracted with

a petrochemical solvent hexane or is a mass-produced synthetic. We never use

synthetics or petrochemical extracted scents.

Our special technique is superior to hexane extracted jasmine not only

environmentally, but also because it captures the full range and complexity of the

original scent, leaving an exceptional quality essential oil, with a scent like no

other. It is a rare commodity, produced in small, limited batches.’

Rogue Perfumery Jasmin Antique

‘Fresh, bright, living jasmine. Floral, fruity, indolic, creamy. The heady fragrance

of jasmine blossoms, permeating the summer night air. Jasmine Blossoms,

Musk, Clove, Vanilla.’

Chloé Atelier des Fleurs Jasminum

‘Envelop in Chloé's sumptuously velvety Jasminum Sambac eau de parfum, part

of the prestigious Atelier des Fleurs collection inspired by the art of floral

composition. An ode to the perfumer's memory of the exquisite jasmine sambac

Louise Turner smelled on Mother's Day in Bangkok, this fresh floral fragrance

evokes soft, sunny aromatic petals laced with dewdrops. Designed to work in

harmony, the fragrances from this collection can be layered-up or worn alone for

a distinctive signature.’

Diptyque Olene

‘Olene tells the story of Venetian gardens. In the evening, under the pergolas, the

sweet fragrance of wisteria and jasmine or sometimes honeysuckle, just as

delicate. Cross bridges to lose yourself, and then stroll through the narrow streets

to perceive the thousand and one scents of the flowers. The illustration for Olene

depicts Flora, a powerful Roman goddess. Endowed with great beauty, she is the

goddess of flowers, springtime and fertility.’

[AD: This episode is proud to be in partnership with BeauFort London - a house Suzy has championed from the start, spoken about passionately over the years, and continues to be excited by.]

From a single, hand-poured moustache wax to one of the world’s most daringly distinctive fragrance houses, BeauFort London’s story is as elemental as the scents themselves. Founded in 2013 by musician Leo Crabtree, the brand was born from salt-spray memories, naval histories and a fascination with the poetry of smoke — quite literally “per fumum” (‘through smoke’).

In this episode of On The Scent Podcast, Suzy Nightingale and Nicola Bonn sit down with Leo to trace that journey: from the formative fragrances he wore as a teenager to the moment he realised scent could become a storytelling medium for his fascinations with maritime might, Shakespearean drama, and the awe-inspiring power of nature.

With the launch of Come Hell Or High Water in 2015 — featuring the now-iconic Tonnerre, Coeur de Noir and Vi et Armis — BeauFort London set out its stall with unapologetically bold compositions, rich in unusual materials and deliberately ‘overdosed’ in their intensity. As you listen, you will hear Suzy, Nicola and Leo smelling some of the creations together — Nicola encountering them properly for the first time, while Suzy revisits fragrances she has worn and championed for years, having known Leo since the brand’s earliest days and even helping to shape the direction of Fathom V.

Together, we delve into the inspirations behind the scents, the emotions they stir, and the evolving landscape of perfumery that Leo reflects upon with candour. It is a conversation about transformation — personal, creative, and within the industry itself — and one that invites you to explore these boldly original fragrances for yourself…

Embracing the heat, and leaning into the ‘Sunscreen Scent’ perfume profile this week, we’re following on from the BONUS episode originally available to Patreon subscribers (which should soon be available here too - keep checking & scroll back in your podcast app to find it), in which we explored our favourite scented sunscreens. Flipping that fragrant theme on its head, this time we’re all about those solar, ‘holiday in a bottle’ type perfumes, and find ourselves particularly drawn to those with a vintage vibe.

Later in the episode, Nicola answers a listener question from someone who had fallen head over heels for spicy tonka / vanilla fragrances way out of her budget, and seeks affordable scents to satiate this new obsession…

We discuss;

Nuxe Prodigieux Le Parfum

This first launched in 2012, and was created by Serge Majoullier (who also created Mugler Womanity Eau Pour Elle and Viktor&Rolf Bonbon).

Top notes are Orange Blossom, Mandarin Orange, Orange and Bergamot; middle notes are Gardenia, Magnolia and Rose; base notes are Coconut Milk, Vanilla and Pebbles.

DIOR La Collection Privé Eden-Roc

We rather suspect that Dior’s resident perfumer, François Demachy, enjoyed even more than usual his ‘research’ for this fragrance, a hymn to one of the world’s most legendary hotels, on the rocky shore of the Côte d’Azur. Flooded with sunlight, it’s cooled and ruffled by a salty breeze, revealing an accord reminiscent of nothing so much as expensive suntan oil, suffused with jasmine and a touch of coconut. Truly the stuff of holiday dreams.

Juliette Has a Gun Sunny Side Up

Ohhh allow yourself to dream of a scented destination somewhere more far flung. Close your eyes and imagine an impossibly perfect beach: warm sand, warm skin, an omnipresent hush of crystal waters massaging brightly coloured pebbles and your own deep, contented breaths. Sunny Side Up is all blissfully relaxed limbs glowing with the retro-smelling scent of suntan oil, the softness of the blanket beneath you and a waft of vanilla ice-cream on the breeze as the sun dips its toes in the ocean. Bliss in fragrant form!

Elie Saab Le Parfum Lumière

‘Like an haute couture dress, Elie Saab fragrances adorn the feminine form, with a radiant sensuality. Elie Saab Le Parfum Lumière captures the sensual sparkle of light. The Dawn. The time when night meets day, when a ray of light softly glides across the darkness and reveals the golden hues of daybreak. Inspired by Mediterranean sun rays, Elie Saab Le Parfum Lumière is an ode of warm light.’

Top notes

Mandarin Essence, Ylang-Ylang

Heart notes

Jasmine Samac Absolut India, Tuberose

Base notes

Patchouli, Musky Woods & Soft amber

Tom Ford Soleil

‘Soleil Brûlant captures the high-shine brilliance of the golden sun beaming on a private oasis. Sun-kissed citrus mingles with spices giving way to an ornate and regal floral heart—while orange flower absolute and black honey release a seductive vapor, melting into the burnished warmth of amber.

Soleil Brûlant releases sun-kissed florals warmed by amber, conjuring a blazing encounter between gilded rays and naked skin. Your own private summer.’

Jennifer Elizabeth:

Hi Nicola and Suzy, I find myself turning to your podcast and fragrance in general to comfort and sweeten my day during the cold winter in Melbourne. I am really enjoying my perfume journey and recently discovered a Libertine Parfumerie near me! I got a sample of Amouge, guidance and Tonka Kumaru Atelier Materi. I didn’t think I would like the spicy saffron in Guidance but I have really warmed to it! And now expanding my tastes into spicy fragrances with a bit of heat. I absolutely love Tonka Kumaru it has become my favourite! Unfortunately both perfumes are way above my budget, and I was wondering if you have any recommendations for a similar fragrance with tonka, vanilla, almond and a spice. I find this fragrance very complex and addictive and its projection is amazing, so it would be may to find something under 100 pounds . I love this scent so much I’d also like to find a candle with similar almond and cardamon notes.

I also like Vanilla Powder Matiere Premier.

Ps I am so happy I can walk into Mecca or libertine and identity so many of the perfumes from your podcast! It brings me such joy!

Nicola’s suggestions:

Essential Parfums Divine Vanilla

Granado Tonka Eau de Toilette

L'Occitane Almond Candle

Mama Moon Prosperity and Courage Candle

Scents Journey - Masala Chai Candle

Jsala - Apothecary Candle

Talk about varied - we go from a ‘posh banana’ Brazilian carnival in a bottle Nicola experienced at a vibrantly fun perfume pop-up in Liberty, to an extraordinary, burning, bloodied rose Suzy’s entranced by (don’t worry - it’s not as scary as it sounds!)

We’re also featuring two incredibly inspirational women on this week’s show - one who’s created her own fragrance brand to reflect a life lived in scent and adventure, and another who’s bringing the playfulness back into perfumery by allowing you (and your friends) to attend a blending workshop via Zoom - to create your own fragrance with her stunning and easy-to-use accords. A whole group of the #fragfam (Suzy, Nicola, Jo, Alice du Parcq, Amanda Carr, Thomas & Hayden attended a Zoom, and we were HUGELY impressed, plus love the scents we blended!)

Amidst all of that there’s talk of a naughty Toy Boy who’s back in town, and Suzy finds two exquisite (and very affordable) iris-forward fragrances for a listener.

Plus: get the second issue of On The Scent magazine which has just been published and is already flying out again! Order online here:

https://www.onthescentmedia.com/on-the-scent-magazine

Now, on with the show, and let’s jump in…

We discuss:

Granado Yes, Nós Temos Banana!

The Brazilian brand has taken over Liberty’s historic Atrium for the whole of July with a huge banana pop-up! Do see it in-person if you can. They say: ‘Evoking the tropical vibrance of Brazil in olfactive form, Yes, Nós Temos Banana! eau de parfum from Granado is an invigorating addition to any fragrance collection.

Anchored by a classic, woody base of sandalwood and cedar, this fragrance combines vibrant notes of banana and peach blossom with the romantic delicacy of fig and iris, while highlighting banana leaf as the protagonist of the creation - spritz onto skin for a breath of escapism.’

L’Entropiste Ensang Noir

[From Sainte Cellier] ‘This rose is on fire… Ensang Noir is an extraordinarily pungent rose perfume, sanguineous red petals stained with black ink, rusted at the bleeding edges. A scent of temptation, danger and the ritualistic fumes of burnt love. Fanatical, obsessive. Skin becomes an altar for this most plush and smoky offering.’

Top Notes: aldehydes, blackcurrant, coriander, cucumber

Heart Notes: red rose, magnolia, peony

Base Notes: incense, birch, opoponax, patchouli, vetiver, caramel

Moschino ToyBoy 2

‘Moschino’s celebrated fragrance for him is back! This time, the new TOY BOY 2 will take you on a sensory journey that opens with a spicy spark and closes with an amber caress.

Toy boy 2 comes alive with an explosion of intriguing nutmeg and sparkling ginger and sets out on a quest to start a journey of lively and ironic charm, to escape from the daily greyness by retracing distant but ever-present emotions. It wraps you in a warm embrace of intense coffee, while akigalawood adds a bold touch. As the adventure continues, it leaves behind a soft trail of myrrh and vetiver, comforting you and promising even more surprises.’

Top notes

saffron accord, nutmeg Indonesia, fresh ginger

Heart notes

coffee extract, cedarwood, akigalawood

Base notes

cistus concrete, vetiver oul, myrrh resinoid

Liz Astor Fragrances

‘Three perfumes, three chapters of a life lived through fragrance.

From an English garden to distant horizons and star-filled nights — each captures a moment in Liz Astor’s journey: where she began, where she wandered, and what she became.’

HETHERSETT

‘Hethersett is a return to origin — a chypre–fruity fragrance that feels like sunlight through orchard branches and summer gardens in full bloom. Each breath reveals the early whispers of creativity: petals, citrus, and memory intertwined. Bright, romantic, rooted — the scent of home becoming art.

Olfactory Notes Orange • Citron • Jasmine • Magnolia • Orange Blossom • Saffron • Cedarwood • Musk

From £40 for 7.5ml

8.7°S 118.3°E

‘The coordinates point to a remote stretch of the Indonesian sea — a place etched in Liz Astor’s travels, when she chased adventure beyond familiar shores.

8.7°S 118.3°E captures the spirit of exploration — the scent of salt spray and sunlight, the pulse of courage, and the thrill of finding beauty in the unknown. It is both fearless and fluid, an ode to self-discovery carried on the ocean wind.

Tone Wild, radiant, unbound — freedom bottled in light and sea air.

Olfactory Notes Bergamot • Mandarin • Grapefruit • Clary Sage • Jasmine • Patchouli • Vetiver’

From £40 for 7.6ml eau de parfum

Nadira No.9

‘Nadira No.9 evokes the sensual hush of desert air beneath a vast night sky — where time slows and the spirit expands. It’s a fragrance of reverence and reflection, born of distant travels and the quiet awe of standing beneath a thousand unfamiliar.

Soft, luminous, intimate — starlight woven through spice and skin.’

Amber • Musk • Night-blooming Florals • Spiced Woods’

From £70 for 7.5ml parfum

Discovery Set: £25 for x3 samples

Purchase the collection for £25 — this is fully redeemable against a future purchase of any 75ml fragrance once you’ve chosen your favourite.

https://lizastor.com

Elix perfume blending workshop (via Zoom)

Nicole founder Elix because: ‘Scent is uniquely powerful, yet we rarely have the opportunity to play and experiment with it. After a career in product innovation and creative facilitation, I returned to my childhood dream of perfume alchemy. Artisan perfumery became my creative outlet during lockdown, and I was inspired by the joy and mindfulness it brought into my life. I founded ELIX Personal Alchemyto share that playful magic with others and make artisan personalised perfumery more accessible.’

‘Our hand-crafted Eau de Toilette blending accords harmonise beautifully in endless combinations. Blend 2–4 accords together to create a range of scents that evolve with your mood, style or occasion; or enjoy them solo.

Our luxury set contains everything you need to enjoy a mindful personal ritual or a shared creative experience at home.

Our curated collections are inspired by some of the most-loved accord combinations created during our live workshops, and include a selection of popular blending ideas to inspire your own journey.

• Up to 70% naturally derived ingredients l • Blending accords can be worn alone or combined • Two refillable atomisers with replenishable elements • Additional accords available individually • Hand-crafted and hand-packed in the U.K.’

£149 Personal Alchemy Blending Kit

https://www.elixfragrance.com

Listener Prescription:

Joanna Caccavo:

Dear Suzy and Nicola,

First of all, a big congratulations on the new magazine! It is absolutely mouthwatering and Suzy’s prose is exquisite - I MUST read more! I am also eager for a perfume prescription for an affordable ($100 or under) very iris-forward fragrance. I’m accustomed to seeing iris perfumes raved about online, but they tend to be quite pricy. However, I recently blind-bought Zara’s Romance d’Iris Elixir, which is almost an iris soliflore and about $70, and I fell head-over-heels in love! I know that iris is a note in many fragrances, both expensive and inexpensive, but in my (admittedly limited!) experience it’s usually quite subtle. Surely there must be other affordable super-iris-y perfumes out there? (They needn’t smell only of iris, but I’d like that to be the dominant note.) Thank you! :)

Suzy suggested:

Fragonard Belle de Paris

Composed by Daniela Andrier (of Prada Infusion d’Iris fame!) here,;lbase notes are Musk and White Cedar Extract.

‘Belle de Paris is elegantly cloaked in iris, a symbol of chic, and wears its incomparable scent.

Its fruity head notes of green mandarin, neroli, and pear brighten a generous heart of iris absolute adorned

with violet and incense. Musk and white cedar form its base.’

Top Notes: neroli, pear and green mandarin;

Heart Notes: iris, violet and incense

Base Notes: musk and white cedar extract.

€42 for 100ml eau de toilette

4160 Tuesdays Hush Hush

‘Imagine a secret 1920s party, the perfumes that people are wearing are the new things: violets and iris, vanilla and musks. They're wearing smart suits and straight silk dresses with beaded tassels. Someone opens a new paper packet of cigarettes, and they all whip out their elegant holders, even the women!

It has a powdery feel reminiscent of early 20th Century perfumes, because we both love the violet-iris texture and aroma created by ionones and irones, including those from natural orris (slightly extravagant but worth every penny). Among the many materials assembled here to create a completely new scent, we have a smidgen of natural rose, a fair quantity of Cashmeran, woods, sparkly orange flower, bergamot, creamy ethyl vanillin and layers of musks.’

£35 for 15ml eau de toilette

Looking for some truly outstanding and very affordable fragrances? Have we got an episode for you! This week, as challenged by you, we went on a scent safari sniffing our way around the new fragrances in one of the U.K’s most beloved high street shops. The results? Well, we were rather awe-struck with how wonderful they were, to be honest.

Suzy is totally in love with a new perfume shop she popped into for a (free!) half-hour hand and massage the other day; and we’ve also got some suggestions for a listener desperately missing their favourite (now discontinued) fragrance, and start this week’s episode with some lovely feedback about a previous listener prescription…

Listener feedback:

Anja:

‘Hello, after listening to your brilliant podcast episode over the weekend and the scent prescription on marocan scents one perfume came straight into my mind: Andi Tauer's L'air du Desert Marocain.

Thanks again for your podcast and hard work, it brings us all joy every week. I blind bought DS&Durga Big Sur Eucalyptus after Suzy described it and it so amazing and exactly whati was looking for (for years!) in a eucalyptus scent. Thanks, Anja’

Marks & Spencer fragrances:

We asked our Instagram followers to suggest a high street store to find some affordable fragrances in, and share our favourites. The top request by FAR was Marks & Spencer. So, we went to the Oxford Street store, and were SO impressed by the selection, layout, accessibility and thoughtfulness that’s gone in to the design - not only of the scents, but the space they’re displayed in.

Not only was the layout chic and welcoming, the shelves were well-stocked with blotters and testers, making it a truly inviting place to go and explore perfumes (both M&S own-brand ones, and a great curation of other brands).

First up, we sniffed the Summer Limited Edition duo (which we’d already promised to test for you a couple of episodes ago):

Suzy’s favourite:

Marshmallow Delight £12 for 100ml eau de parfum

‘Indulge in a scent that feels soft, sweet and irresistibly playful with this Marshmallow Delight eau de toilette from our Discover range. Juicy raspberry brings a bright opening, melting into fluffy marshmallow and smooth cream for a comforting, dessert-like finish.’

Nicola’s favourite:

Solar Fleur £12 for 100ml eau de parfum

‘Capture the warmth of sunlit skin with this radiant eau de toilette from our Discover range. A bright burst of mandarin opens the scent, softened by delicate jasmine and wrapped in the creamy sweetness of coconut milk. The result is a smooth, glowing fragrance that feels effortless and uplifting.’

Then we made a beeline for the brand new M&S Studio Fragrance collection - and were both completely blown away! The quality is apparent the second you pick up the bottles: stylishly pared back they feel satisfyingly weighty with good quality lids, and even the labels are slightly recessed - a very luxe touch, all for £22.50 per 100ml eau de perfume. And the SCENTS! Oh my. So many great ones to choose from (shall we do a whole series?) but we chose…

Suzy’s favourites:

M&S Studio Amber Crème

‘This Amber Crème eau de parfum is a refined and evocative choice. Sensual amber and rich vanilla combine with notes of rum, patchouli and crème anglaise to create a lavish, indulgent scent.

Top note: Brown Sugar Middle note: Tonka Base note: Amber’

M&S Studio Ginger Flower

‘Enjoy a fresh and contemporary scent with the Ginger Flower eau de parfum. The heart of the fragrance combines lively ginger with sweet citrus and orange blossom for an uplifting accord. Sensual white musk and blond woods create a warm, grounded finish.

Top note: Ginger Middle note: Orange blossom Base note: White musk’

Nicola’s favourites:

Darkest Vanilla

‘Enjoy a rich and velvety accord with the Darkest Vanilla eau de parfum. The sensual vanilla heart is complemented by warm amber, luscious tonka bean and dreamy patchouli. Notes of floral orchid and sweet brown sugar ensure a luxurious finish.

Top note: Vanilla bean Middle note: Tonka Base note: Amber

Sheer Musk

This Sheer Musk eau de parfum from M&S Studio is a subtly sensual choice. A heart of vegan sublimolide™ musk and ambrette absolute is complemented by floral rose and velvety orris. Cashmere and sandalwood notes create a grounded finish.

Top note: Pink pepper Middle note: Cashmere Base note: Musk

They really are knocking it out of the park at M&S - in the beauty area (our fave, obvs) but also in their fashion and accessories. So many reasons to be excited again about going in-store! We must go back to try more perfumes, though, don’t you think?

Nicola loved her Atelier Rebul mixing masterclass experience, and this is a house we want to tell you much more about (and smell our way through all their creations) in future episodes.

Meanwhile….

Suzy had the most incredible FREE half hour scented hand & arm massage at Norfolk Natural Living in their Lambs Conduit Street shop. This relaxing, unhurried ritual uses their all-natural products and ends with a bespoke fragrance discovery.

Suzy chose to finish with a layered spritz of:

Geranium & Tomato Leaf

‘Beyond the glass the garden breathes a little slower. Leaves stir with a soft whisper as the warmth begins to soften at the edges. The scent of crushed tomato vine lingers green and vivid against the rosy sweetness of geranium bloom. Neroli drifts through the shade like a pale ribbon of light while cool earth settles everything into an easy calm.

It is the sort of afternoon that asks nothing of you. Sun warming terracotta. Green stems rubbed gently between the fingers. A bright citrus breeze wandering through open windows carrying lime and eucalyptus with it. The garden smells alive and a little unruly in the loveliest way.’

(Layered with)

Rose Garden

‘The afternoon unfolds in layers of scent and light. I sit beneath the cedar tree, reading... The breeze is bright, alive, moving through the garden like thought. It brings the first shimmer of geranium leaf and Sicilian lemon, quick and green, a scent that catches the light like a silver blade. Then, the roses. They lean into the air, full and fresh, their sharp sweetness almost shocking after the citrus. The garden hums with life: petals opening, leaves trembling, sunlight deepening into gold.

This rose is no dowager; it’s an ingénue with perfect posture. Geranium keeps it clean and quick, jasmine gives it flesh, cedar lends gravity, and amber that quiet, golden hum anchors it all. The air itself seems to thrum, half floral, half mineral, alive with that peculiar English freshness that smells of rain remembered rather than falling.’

The fragrances start from £20 for 10ml and every one Suzy smelled was genuinely excellent (though we also need to go bs k here and try many more!)

Norfolk Natural Living have stores around the U.K. (as well as selling their products online:

You can enjoy the free Norfolk Natural Living hand & arm massage at selected stores (Cambridge, Southwold, Lambs Conduit St London, Woodbridge, Aldeburgh & Holt] by booking online, here:

https://tinyurl.com/Norfolk-Natural-Living-Massage

Listener Prescription:

Meira:

Hi! I’m reaching out because I’ve heard you are experts in tracking down lost or discontinued fragrances. I’ve been on a long quest to find Ananya by The Body Shop (the original 1980s/90s version).

​It holds so many memories for me, and I’ve been struggling to find it anywhere. Since it seems to be unavailable to ship to Europe, I was wondering if you could help me find it or, if not, recommend a fragrance that is a very close match in terms of scent profile (tuberose, peach, coconut, and sandalwood).

​Any guidance or tips you could provide would mean the world to me. Thank you so much for your time and help!

Suzy suggests:

Chopard Casmir

‘Casmir was launched in 1992. The nose behind this fragrance is Michel Almairac. Top notes are Peach, Coconut, Mango, Fruits and Bergamot; middle notes are Geranium, Jasmine, Floral Notes and Lily-of-the-Valley; base notes are Vanilla, Amber, Sandalwood, Musk, Patchouli and Woodsy Notes.’

Kayali Eden Sweet Peach | 35

‘Sweet, luscious, and velvety, Eden Sweet Peach | 35 Eau de Parfum is pure happiness in a bottle. On first spritz, sweet-and-tangy peach and crisp red apple create a bright, mouthwatering opening while creamy frangipani adds softness and warmth at the heart of the juice. As the fragrance dries down, comforting musk melts into the skin, leaving a tender yet addictive trail that radiates effortless joy.’

(Layered with)

Kayali Utopia Vanilla Coco | 21

‘Take a dip in your daydreams, where the clouds seem within reach and you’re blissfully floating in a glittering pool of possibilities. Creamy sandalwood and sweet white florals are topped with milky coconut, then whipped together with vanilla bourbon to evoke that sense of freedom from reality, transporting you to your perfect world, your Utopia.’

On The Scent Magazine

To purchase a print issue of the first issue of On The Scent Magazine follow this link to order yours (delivery worldwide):

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If this is your first bonus subscriber-only episode: welcome! We’ve so much more for you in store, with an extra episode every single week (even when we’re on a break from the main podcast).

Claggy, sweaty, humid weather: it’s the absolute worst for trying to get to sleep in, right? Well in this week’s extra episode, we’re discussing scents that, once sprayed, seem to instantly lower the temperature and create a cool, calming atmosphere.

Do you wear fragrances to sleep (and save some especially for hot weather), or use diffusers, essential oils, or other fragrant ways of staying cool? We’d love to hear about them!

Of course these fragrances don’t only have to be reserved for humid, sleepless nights - they can be used anytime you need to have an instant refresh or mood-re-setting moment.

Here’s what we waft when it all gets a bit much…

NEOM Super Shower Power Body Wash

‘Smells like a fresh mint tea – invigorating and energising. All the flavours that make you feel awake, and alert are blended into this incredible sensorial shower cream: pinging mint, euphoric eucalyptus, cleansing rosemary and empowering coffee. Plus, there’s creamy oat milk to add a gorgeous feeling of nourishment and care around you, charging you up for the best start to the day. - Alice du Parcq.’

NEOM Squeeze the Day Essential Oil Blend

‘Smells like freshly cut and perfectly ripe citrus fruits - juicy and uplifting. The ultimate get-up-and-go blast of sharp-sweet citrus zest, featuring the perfect balance of bitter and tart grapefruit with warm and juicy mandarin. For extra oomph, there’s a subtle ping of cooling eucalyptus that radiates through your space – the greatest of all feel-good scents. - Alice du Parcq.’

4711:

Eau de Cologne

‘One of the world's oldest and most famous authentic Eau de Cologne creations, having been produced in Cologne, Germany, since 1792. Known for its iconic blue-and-gold packaging, it is a timeless, unisex citrus-aromatic fragrance loved for its crisp, clean, and immediately refreshing profile.’

• Top Notes: Bergamot, Lemon, Orange, Peach, and Basil
• Heart Notes: Lavender and Rosemary
• Base Notes: Neroli (orange blossom) and Petitgrain

+ Eau de Cologne Tissues

+ Eau de Cologne Cool Stick

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Herba Fresca

‘A note of fresh herbs sparkling with dew and springtime flowers, energised by a bunch of spearmint leaves and connected by a green tea accord. The fragrance is enlivened by a tonic accord with the aromas of cut grass glistening with dew.’

DedCool Mineral Milk

‘Your favorite MILK scent on a seaside getaway. The familiar, skin-like musk you love, refreshed with a salty breeze and mineral sparkle. A coastal daydream, bottled.

• TOP: GOLDEN NECTAR, PASSIONFRUIT
• MIDDLE: COASTAL LAVENDER, OCEAN AIR, MARINE SALT
• BOTTOM: AMBER MILK, VIRGINIA CEDAR,AUSTRALIAN SANDALWOOD.’

Roos & Roos Globulus

‘At the top, eucalyptus globulus in two aspects: the essence of the leaves (aromatic) and the extract of the buds (fruity greens) for a lively freshness. In the heart, essence of mint (spicata mint) for a lively spicy burst of cardamom from Guatemala. The green facet is amplified by salviac (smell of sage leaves).In the background the cascalone blows a wind of aquatic freshness, like a morning dew. A crystal moss note (close to oak moss) creates a woody facet. A breeze of lively and minty freshness.’

Diptyque Lemongrass & Geranium Body Spray

‘A bright, aromatic spray infused with essential oils known to help repel mosquitoes. A limited-edition design inspired by summer water gardens.

Lemongrass, geranium and neroli create a vibrant freshness on the skin. On the bottle, geraniums come to life in a design inspired by mosaic tesserae, imagined by Mathilde Jonquière.’

HERETIC PARFUM - NOSFERATU

‘In partnership with Nosferatu and Focus Features, Heretic is proud to collaborate on a fragrance inspired by the iconic vampire. Cold, pale and pellucid, this fragrance evokes the uneasy chill of encountering an apparition. The fragrance opens with a clap of thunder and downpour of rain, strikes of lightning fill the air with petrichor and electricity. Tangled in the stones of the dark, wet heart chord you will find lilac in vivid a bouquet of cadaverous hues punctuated by inky violet absolute. This floral accord of ether conjures memories of forgotten innocence and love everlasting that give way to the peculiar delights of vegan Ambergris. Soft and velvety the ambergris dances on the skin in a nostalgic waltz that is both delicate and hedonistic. Nosferatu is only in theaters this Christmas. © 2024 Focus Features LLC.’

Norfolk Natural Living Magnesium Spray

‘Our Magnesium Sleep body spray is…

For sleep. For tension. For 3am spirals. Created by a mum who just wanted her child to rest.

I didn’t set out to launch a magnesium sleep spray — I made this because my daughter couldn’t sleep.

She wasn’t dramatic, just quietly anxious. Her little mind wouldn’t switch off. Bedtime became a knot of questions, overthinking, and restlessness. So I blended magnesium with lavender and sweet orange. A gentle, calming spray she could trust—and so could I. It helped her sleep. Properly.

And once I saw it worked for her, I started using it too—after long days, before travel, when a migraine threatened, or when my own brain refused to slow down. Now it lives in every bag and on every bedside table. Not just for sleep. For calm.

What it does

• Helps you fall—and stay—asleep Spray on feet, wrists, or chest. Breathe deeply. Sleep comes easier.
• Calms anxiety For that wired-at-bedtime feeling, or mid-day overwhelm. A few sprays help settle things down.
• Relieves muscle tension & restless legs Ideal after workouts, desk days, or long flights.
• Soothes migraines & tension headaches Apply to neck and temples at the first sign of a flare-up.
• Supports sleep during perimenopause and menopause Great for night sweats, restless sleep, and general hormonal chaos—no hormones involved.

What’s in it

• Magnesium Sulfate – Known to relax muscles, reduce anxiety, and support melatonin production.
• Lavender Essential Oil – The classic calming scent, soothing and familiar.
• Sweet Orange Essential Oil – Uplifting and comforting; balances out bedtime anxiety.
• Nothing synthetic, nothing sticky – Vegan, cruelty-free, and handmade in Norfolk.

How to use it

• For sleep: 4–6 sprays on wrists, feet, or backs of knees about 20 minutes before bed.
• For muscle tension: 8–10 sprays, massage into sore areas.
• For anxiety: Spray on palms, rub, and inhale slowly.
• For migraines or tension headaches: Apply to back of neck and temples.
• For children aged 5+: 2–3 sprays after bath or before bed.
• On-the-go: Use before travel, meetings, or school runs to take the edge off.’

We’re back with a whole new season of On the Scent Podcast!

While we had a break on the main pod, we’ve still been recording our Patreon exclusive episodes every week, which you can catch up with on patreon.com https://www.patreon.com/u84518038

Meanwhile, we’ve been busy attending some incredible new launches, many of which you’ll hear about in this episode, and Nicola and her husband, Chris, got to have bespoke fragrances made for them by Nicola Pozzani, the Global Fragrance Ambassador and Bespoke Perfumer for Floris London! She’s talking us through the entire process here, and you’ll hear some recordings she made in the historic Jermyn Street perfumer’s office on the day.

Suzy also got to experience something rather wonderful, visiting the newly appointed Chanel salon in Harrods for a ‘Grand Parfumeur’ session revealing the fascinating symbolism present in Chanel’s life, aesthetics, and the new Extrait perfumes. She also attended the jaw-dropping launch of BDK’s three new fragrances, each inspired by spectacular fabrics.

After talking about the celeb-filled celebrations of The Fragrance Foundation Awards, with more being more, there’s much talk of what’s on the current ‘can’t stop wearing list’ (which includes a latex and lipstick scent Nicola adores, a mushroom fragrance Suzy’s obsessed by, and a reconnection with a past perfume love).

On this week’s episode…

Floris London Bespoke Experience:

https://tinyurl.com/florisbespoke

BDK Stellar Silk

‘Stellar Silk unfolds around the milky, textured richness of a creamy, precious sandalwood. At the top, a spicy spark of ginger and cinnamon bark is delicately dusted with saffron. Then, the floral heart of iris unfolds, echoing the intimate caress of fabric against the skin, enveloped in vanilla, tonka bean, and the profound warmth of benzoin tears. In the base, sandalwood and musks carry and extend the trail with gentle intensity. Like a precious thread of silk, Stellar Silk lays a veil of sensuality across the skin. A fragrance of passion, it radiates as a luminous halo, balancing depth and lightness to create an enduring, timeless elegance. Around the silk, a universe of luxury emerges, defined by a noble material exploring with subtlety the porous boundaries between masculine and feminine wardrobes. The softness and delicacy of the fabric flirt with the sensuality of evening gowns, evoking Haute Couture silhouettes where creative freedom blurs boundaries, reminiscent of designs by Yves Saint Laurent or Valentino Garavani. In the airy, whispering rustle of muslin, an ode rises to the preciousness of a millennia-old material, noble and treasured.’

BDK Silver Ceremony

‘Silver Ceremony is conceived in resonance with the precious radiance of sequins. At the top, bergamot, green mandarin, and lemon illuminate the fragrance as light strikes metal, sparkling with a crystalline, vibrant, almost icy freshness, heightened by the spicy brilliance of ginger and pink pepper. In the base, woody notes unfold, dominated by cedar, set with patchouli and oud, and faceted with the amber nuances of labdanum. A textured creation, rich in energy and vibration, where freshness accentuates depth and warmth anchors luminosity. Constructed like an architectural masterpiece in which movement and stillness coexist, it is at once solid and fluid. Like a luminous, shimmering, ethereal garment, Silver Ceremony reveals itself as a fragrance with an electric, magnetic, incisive, and radiant signature. In the 1960s, when Paco Rabanne was celebrated as a metallurgist, he boldly wove metal into his creations, sculpting dresses with the precision of an architect. Thierry Mugler conjured robotized silhouettes, evoking a visionary, almost cosmic futurism. As for sequins, with their meticulous artisanal craftsmanship, they endure as a luminous and precious signature of Haute Couture, illuminating the most sophisticated ensembles with a radiant brilliance.’

BDK Oud Paradiso

‘Oud Paradisio unveils itself: a fragrance at once powerful, captivating, opulent, and audacious. Dominating with majesty is a dark, enveloping oud wood. At the top, the fresh, citrusy brightness of bergamot is enlivened by the juicy, succulent sweetness of frosted pineapple, while a subtle veil of incense and saffron whispers through the composition. The exquisite floral heart unfolds as a precious trio of roses, two essences and an absolute, imbuing the composition with elegance and depth. The warm base marries shadowy oud with cocoa, creating an arrangement rich in intensity and sumptuous voluptuousness. Sensuality blossoms among a woody warmth, nuanced with subtle restraint. Its assertive character is sculpted by the animalic accents revealed through the potent olfactory presence of oud essence. Complex and surprising, Oud Paradisio is a nocturnal perfume steeped in mystery. In fashion, leather claims its nobility without forsaking its innate animality, which imparts strength and commanding presence. Designers have challenged leather, shaping it into a second skin, Claude Montana in the 1980s with exaggerated shoulders crafted for fearless, audacious personalities. More recently, Rick Owens has celebrated this material with brilliance, transgressing its codes with boldness, even a hint of provocation. Animalistic by nature, leather embodies strength, power, and confidence.’

Atelier Rebul Istanbul

‘Discover the hidden scents of Istanbul with this eau de parfum. The glittering notes of bergamot is blended with spicy notes of cinnamon, saffron and clove, as well as floral and woody notes. The fragrance of our Istanbul collection is truly striking and unique.’

Vyrao Ludatrix

‘Naughty notes of lipstick and latex entwine with powdery rose, energising sichuan pepper and courage-enhancing orris to cast Ludatrix’s enticing and empowered spell. Tantalising ambrette for igniting arousal is layered with voluptuous cedarwood, sandalwood and olibanum for positivity and protection, while a potent blend of ambrox and musk sparks sensuality. Bold and boundless desire, bottled.’

Nasomatto Microdelirio

All we’re told is ‘The fragrance is the result of a natural vital delirium, evoking a flourishing ecosystem of organic disobedience.’ Suzy senses ultra-realistic petrichor (rain soaked earth), creamy mushrooms, leaf-mulchy forest floor, vetiver, perhaps some beetroot fruitiness (?) and bags of patchouli earthiness.

Lush Ginger

‘A fragrance of the sensation of tasting ginger for the first time and feel it warming your body. Ginger is combined with flowers – mimosa, geranium, rose, ylang ylang and jasmine. A touch of juniper berry makes the composition vivid and fruity.’

Goldfield & Banks Ingenious Ginger

‘Ingenious Ginger is a floral amber perfume inspired by the lush Atherton Tablelands. red back ginger blends with bergamot, mandarin, magnolia, vanilla, amber and australian sandalwood.

A world-first exploration of Australian Red Back Ginger, this best-selling Eau De Parfum offers an instant sense of nature in a blissful and sultry destination.’

Buy issue 1 of On The Scent magazine and feast your eyes on the fabulous fragrant features, news and reviews in print! Get your copy here:

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