With Pace

Mark Twight, mountaineer, Part I


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Mark Twight is a former pioneering mountaineer, climber, photographer, author, podcaster, and Hollywood trainer. During his climbing career, he made multiple first ascents of some of the most challenging routes in the world, and achieved the fastest known times (FKTs) on Denali and Mount Hunter in The Alaska Range using bold, innovative training and climbing methods. His lightweight, single push approach to alpinism solidified his legacy as a pioneer of the sport, and changed the face of mountaineering. Following his retirement from climbing, Twight founded Gym Jones, a private training facility where his success with professional athletes and military personnel led him to training actors for nine different Hollywood movies. He defines his current project--NonProphet--as the intersection between art and action but it is difficult to assign a title to what he does. Now he works as a writer, podcaster, speaker, and photographer. Payson caught up with Mark in Moab, UT to attempt to scratch the surface of Mark's career. They discuss radical approaches to breaking speed records, Mark's legendary 60 hour ascent of Denali, and why a balance between hubris and humility is key to achieving anything great. In the process, they realized there was just too much to talk about, and came back for round two a few months later. Part II of their conversation will be published next week. 

Instagram: @withpacepod
YouTube: Payson McElveen

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With PaceBy Payson McElveen

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