Gemma Moulton is the founder of East London Cloth. Gemma has crafted a visual narrative, a sensibility, a place and space all of her very own. It is both timeless and of the moment. It draws intelligently and interestingly on the past. The business has evolved quickly from making curtains, to café curtains by post and now as a fabric house of its very own. East London Cloth has made the old, new.

Time. The Right Time. Good Timing. The Right Moment. The Passage Of Time. The Right Age. Time is money. Time flies. In the nick of time. Time For A Change. Timing and business. It’s something that I think of often. It is often the olive in the martini. Get the timing right and talent sings, businesses flourish. Gemma Moulton has a great sense of time and of timing.

In the spirit of making Up With The Lark And a more interactive experience, I asked you what you’d like to ask Gemma. And without fail, every question related to her sense of style, her confident aesthetic, the space she has created. So in this episode, we are lucky enough to be able to ask Gemma all about her distinct visual narrative, her space in East London, the fabric collection, the photography and how she has made the old new in each and every area of the business.

East London Cloth: www.eastlondoncloth.co.uk

We ask Ben Watkinson, Creative Director of GF Smith, about the power of paper, the work of a paper merchant, resilience, innovation, company culture, longevity and what the next one hundred years might bring.

When I begin work with a new client, their specific understanding of success is a vital first step. Often I find myself ushering people towards adding ‘longevity’ to the list. In an era where everything seems to happen ever faster, comparison is rife and the state of the world makes it hard to visualise what the future will hold, this is not an easy aspiration to have. But it is a highly valuable one. 

Today’s guest certainly has achieved it. Let me take you back to 1885. George V was on the throne here, Mark Twain published Huckleberry Finn, the football association recognised professional footballers, the Glasgow Boys first exhibited collectively and George Frederick Smith founded a new paper merchant called GF Smith and S on to supply printers with the finest papers.

For over 135 years, GF Smith has been obsessed with the simple beauty and limitless possibilities of paper. Their desire is that, through the hands of the design community, they can bring creativity to life and constantly innovate with one of the world’s oldest materials.

Today’s guest is one of the custodians of this great legacy. Ben Watkinson is the Creative Director of GFSmith. ‘Founded in 1885’ isn’t a marketing slogan; it’s an approach to doing business.

If curiosity is your north star, you will enjoy this. How does being self-taught impact the life of a creative entrepreneur?

Those who live a life of creativity are often driven by something quite simple - curiosity, wonder and questioning. There is an innate desire to want to understand something, to work something out, to communicate and to explore. 

For some, this takes them on a path to art school, to foundation degrees, exams, tests, the affirmation of professors and educators. For others, the path is all together quite different. This is the path of the self-taught creative. It is this enticing topic that we are going to explore today. What prompts someone to explore a particular creative path or discipline? What encourages them to make it their livelihood? Where do you begin? How do you put ideas into practice? What part does the recognition of your peers play? When do you feel successful? How do you retain that desire to learn when you are further down the line? Too often we hear about the glory moments, the highlights, the 'ta da' experiences. But in this episode, I am delighted that we are going to hear about the journey, the approach, the grit and the reality. And, of course, some of those fabulous 'ta da' moments too. 

We are joined by Nicholas Balfe, founder and chef director of Holm in Somerset. He is a self-taught chef and his story is a fantastic one. Holm can be found in a former bank in a quaint Somerset village. It is inspired by nature, its surroundings and is driven by provenance, sustainability and warm hospitality. It is enticing and beautiful. I imagine it to be the physical representation of Nicholas' curiosity. 

How to ignite original thinking to action and how to keep that independence of thought at the heart of all you do as your businees grows. 

I think that we would all liked to be described as original. I think we also like to think that our designs, branding, website, shop or investment strategy meet that threshold too. But it is a high one. There are certainly those who veer away from the herd, who shake off what is expected and forge their own path, laying brick by brick by brick. These people imagine, test, mess up, question, engage, focus and encourage. So while todays guest might not fit squarely into the ‘creative arts’ sector, I was so intrigued by the concept that I couldn’t resist a chat. 

Lauren Scott-Harris is the founder of EARNT. To my mind, EARNT is a verb. It is an attitude, a movement, a community of change makers who believe that actions speak louder than money. They help brands unite with causes to get good things done. Those that take part gain access to the best limited editions, the most sought after experiences and widely coveted tickets - creating a new kind of VIP. With some great early adopters, such as the River Café and Desmond and Dempsy, the concept is evolving and growing.

This is an idea built on belonging, on using influence to actually do something and of making that set of ideals a practical one. We are going to find out about where the idea came from, what the early years have been like, the contradictions and challenges they face, how we can test original thinking and keep independence of thought alive as the inevitable growing pains kick in.

Earnt - www.earnt.co.uk

How do we tune into clients? How can we read them quickly? How can we take feedback well? How can we be collaborative? How can we help them tell their story?

I always enjoy the dedications and acknowledgements in books. Such hidden treasures. Recently, I had the pleasure of wolfing down Thomas Heatherwick’s latest book ‘Humanise – a Maker’s Guide To Building Our World’.  It is a point of view. A statement of intent. Perhaps, a manifesto. I have re-read it a few times, it is a spine broken, weighted with post its, lines and scribbles in margins favourite. And as I dove into the acknowledgements, I found a line which prompted today’s conversation:

"Thank you to Ben Prescott, the book's designer, [who] was wonderfully collaborative and intuitively understood what I have been trying to express."

And I am delighted to say that we have graphic designer and founder of BPD, Ben Prescott joining us today to explore that very point.

Ben Prescott is the salt in the recipe when it comes to brand building. Vital. Unassuming. Impactful. His approach is thoughtful, quiet, with a range of references so broad ranging and enticing that his presentations are works of art in and of themselves. He reads people with ease and draws their story onto the page, the website, the packaging, the shop window. He is commercially mindful and excellent at the tangible, the hold it in your hand, the it will last and last. What he does, works.

BPD has worked with brands including Marfa Stance, Alex Eagle, Kinjo, the V&A, Broadwick Hotel in Soho, Twig Hutchinson and the Festival of Fashion at the Fife Arms. And in each and every instance, he has shown true expertise in reading the client.

We are going to examine that idea, the importance, the relevance, the practical application of reading clients, understanding briefs and taking feedback. Whether you are on the service side of the arts or someone who commissions, collaborates or briefs others, you are going to enjoy this one.

A conversation about how the Swedes do business with textile designer, Cathy Nordstrom.

A few years ago, I had a conversation with Taymoor Atigetchi, founder of Papier about the impact of his Iranian roots on the way that he does business. That train of thought stayed with me. And stayed with me. And stayed with me to the point of preoccupation.And so now, a series of interviews with entrepreneurs across a variety of countries and cultures.

I want to look beyond the accepted clichés and celebrate the variety of approaches to what makes for ‘good business’. I want to explore customs, political systems, climate, temperament, geography and expectations. What motivates, delights, disappoints. I hope to celebrate the breadth of style and approach, the idiosyncratic, the different.

And so we begin our journey in Sweden. Cathy Nordstrom is the founder of her eponymous textile brand based in Stockholm. She has a look and style that says, come and sit down, I’ll pour you a proper drink, put on some Fleetwood Mac and we will have a fantastic chat. Even more wonderful is the fact that her pieces are designed, hand printed and produced in Sweden. Inspired by a sometimes forgotten Swedish heritage of colour, geometric and floral design, her love for pattern and textiles is contagious. After many years in graphic and then pattern design, Cathy opened her own company in 2019 and it has quickly found it’s way onto the design landscape. She says every room gets better with textiles and her aim is always to encourage us to select pieces that make our hearts sing. In Swedish, of course.

Welcome to Up With the Lark And – a podcast for creative entrepreneurs hosted by me, Calandre Orton.

It seems to me that there are two key factors in the running of a great business. Consistency and Change. Together. Blended. Balanced. Connected. And as we usher in a New Year, change is on our minds. What goals have you set for yourself this year? Perhaps a change of product or service, perhaps a change of location, of stockists, of supplier, of marketing strategy? Some are tweaks. Some are seismic.

One such seismic change, is a entire change of career. As an escaped lawyer myself, I am always interested to hear how and why others made the leap from the corporate world to the creative one. Whenever I spot one, I make sure to find out more about their story. And our guest today is a wonderful example – Eppie Thompson is the founder of The Fabled Thread. Some tell stories in ink but theirs is told in needle and thread. The Fabled Thread is a colourful, storytelling, optimistic and confident brand offering embroidery, needlepoint, sewing supplies, courses and a sense of togetherness. A foray with a sampler as a wedding gift began the journey from corporate City life to creative entrepreneur.

In this episode, I ask how do you know you’re ready? How do you know it’s the right thing? And the right time? What does that shift in mindset look like from employee to entrepreneur? What advantages and blights does a corporate past offer? Whether you are changing profession, moving country, launching a new offering, embracing a new style, opening or closing a bricks and mortar shop, my hope is that you will all find uplifting insights in Eppie’s story.

The Fabled Thread: www.thefabledthread.com
Up With The Lark: www.upwiththelark.com

Welcome to Up With the Lark And – a podcast for creative entrepreneurs hosted by me, Calandre Orton.

One of the areas of creative business that intrigues me most is how creatives work together. How do great partnerships, collaborations, commissions, pairs and teams work? How do we know if an endeavour will be challenging, stretching, engaging, enriching, effective, adventurous? How can we all understand ourselves better in order to work well with others? Does there need to be a commonality of outlook, aesthetic, humour, approach? And how about the practicalities and those inevitable moments of difficulty? This topic offers such a rich vein of discussion that I plan to return to it again and again across different industries, personalities and projects.

Today we have one such collaboration – Arthur Cole, Head of Programmes, at The Newt in Somerset and children’s author/illustrator Emma Van Zeller. Together they have recently published a book entitled ‘The Spitting Toads’ which is simply charming. The Newt is a working estate in Somerset comprising splendid gardens, farmland, woodland and orchards. An exquisite hotel, restaurant and shop are matched only by the programme of events celebrating seasons, the landscape, creativity and innovation. All of this done with a sense of whimsy and imagination. Their apple display at Chelsea Flower Show will forever have a place in my mental scrapbook! And I think that it is just that sense of childlike whimsy alongside an Allen Alberg sense of detail that is where these two creatives meet. Both encourage us to slow, pause, observe and look look and look again. We are going to find out about Emma’s creative practice and style, why she approached The Newt to work together, the story of The Newt itself and how they worked together to bring this project to fruition.

Emma van Zeller: www.emmavanzeller.com
The Newt: www.thenewtinsomerset.com
The Spitting Toads: www.shop.thenewtinsomerset.com/uk/p/2867/the-spitting-toads

It seems to me that the mix of work rest and play has gone awry. Many of us find ourselves far from a good blend, mix or combinations of these three critical factors in any creative business. Work has long been worshipped. Being oh so very busy, burning the candle at both ends and the midnight oil, the 5am club, all nights have all been badges of honour. Slowly, though, rest has found its way like the first crocus, into entrepenurial consideration. Even if just as a means to an end. Mindfulness, going offline, running your inbox rather than it running you, company culture, sleep are now all in the conversation.

And yet play feels too often neglected. Relegated to childhood, art school, the start up phase or ‘just when I get some time’. So in this gathering of conversations, we will explore the purpose of play and the practicality of play and how we keep it at the forefront even when the cash flow forecasts, the product plan, social media and your staff are all clamouring for your attention. Looking at different creative disciplines, enterprises and personalities, I hope that you will find yourself encouraged and challenged to remember that play is in fact a very serious business.

Being a multi-hyphenate, a polymath, has become more than idea of late, it has become an ideal for many. More and more people want to have a variety of strings to their bow, a variety of mediums in their tool kit, a variety of communities and clients. But very few truly achieve this accolade. Today’s guest is the most wonderful example. She is someone who acts on her ideas. Mel Calver has a creative life that is a delightfully unexpected tapestry. She is the founder and creative director of Melanie Giles hairdressing a collection of three salons across Somerset all fizzing with energy, buzzing with hairdryers and yet which offer a sanctuary of great coffee and conversation. Alongside this she runs ReRooting which is a cutting and kitchen garden where she supplies herbs and flowers to Landrace Bakery, and herbs to Margaux Henderson's Three Horse Shoes.

Mel’s drive and ambition is quiet. Perhaps even enigmatic. And yet its outcome is abundantly clear. Every conversation with her is peppered with adventurous ideas and plans. It’s infectious. Her sense of play is independent and built on an intuition I admire immensely. I can assure you that Mel’s story will get you thinking about your own talents, ideas and sense of play and the promise of what might be possible. We are going to talk about plants and hair and baking, the delight in working in contrasting disciplines and how to keep play alive in the midst of it all.

Melanie Giles - www.melanie-giles.uk
Re-Rooting - www.re-rooting.co.uk
Landrace Bakery - www.landrace.co.uk

It seems to me that the mix of work rest and play has gone awry. Many of us find ourselves far from a good blend, mix or combinations of these three critical factors in any creative business. Work has long been worshipped. Being oh so very busy, burning the candle at both ends and the midnight oil, the 5am club, all nights have all been badges of honour. Slowly, though, rest has found its way like the first crocus, into entrepenurial consideration. Even if just as a means to an end. Mindfulness, going offline, running your inbox rather than it running you, company culture, sleep are now all in the conversation.

And yet play feels too often neglected. Relegated to childhood, art school, the start up phase or ‘just when I get some time’. So in this gathering of conversations, we will explore the purpose of play and the practicality of play and how we keep it at the forefront even when the cash flow forecasts, the product plan, social media and your staff are all clamouring for your attention. Looking at different creative disciplines, enterprises and personalities, I hope that you will find yourself encouraged and challenged to remember that play is in fact a very serious business.

I have never been able to resist a gallery or museum shop, not once. It is that specific moment of wanting to turn an experience, a visual experience, into something more tangible. A single postcard will suffice, a coffee table book delights but trinkets and treasures are a real treat. And there aren’t many places that do this better than the V&A. A place where the very very old and the highly contemporary are plaited together to create a world away from the hustle and bustle attitude. Whether in its architecture, exhibitions or the collections in the shop, you know you are in the hands of an expert, innovative and playful staff.

One of them joins us today, Margaux Soland heads the Buying Team of V&A Retail. They look after all the shops across the London sites which includes South Ken, The Young V&A, and V&A East. In this episode, we will find out about how the team works, their relationship with the rest of the museum, Margaux’s role there, and that even an institution as authoritative and historic as the V&A can be playful.

The V&A Shop - /www.vam.ac.uk/shop/home