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Annie is a climber on Team USA and she had an amazing world cup season this year with 2 boulder golds and a lead gold and even more podiums! In this episode we’ll learn about what goes through her mind during her crazy beta breaks, what her training routine looks like, and how gym access really influences performance.
Guest links:
Annies’s Instagram
Annie’s Xiaohungshu (red book)
Reference links:
Women’s Boulder Final Seoul World Champs
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
0:56 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
1:39 - Jetlag + travels
5:29 - Growing up in a climbing family
7:09 - Static + slow climbing style
10:07 - Regretting static beta breaks??
12:08 - Timing out in lead
18:22 - 2026 goals
20:49 - Annie's training plan
24:32 - Lack of gym access
27:43 - Post-high school plans
30:22 - Outdoor climbing
33:38 - AUDIENCE Q: Can you still be an elite climber without passion?
35:43 - Audience Q: Mindset during comps?
41:36 - AUDIENCE Q: Tips for endurance?
42:26 - Audience Q: Advice on how to break dynos?
43:23 - AUDIENCE Q: Is it hard previewing climbs with other athletes?
45:57 - Outro and where to find Annie
By Jinni Xia4.8
1717 ratings
Annie is a climber on Team USA and she had an amazing world cup season this year with 2 boulder golds and a lead gold and even more podiums! In this episode we’ll learn about what goes through her mind during her crazy beta breaks, what her training routine looks like, and how gym access really influences performance.
Guest links:
Annies’s Instagram
Annie’s Xiaohungshu (red book)
Reference links:
Women’s Boulder Final Seoul World Champs
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
0:56 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
1:39 - Jetlag + travels
5:29 - Growing up in a climbing family
7:09 - Static + slow climbing style
10:07 - Regretting static beta breaks??
12:08 - Timing out in lead
18:22 - 2026 goals
20:49 - Annie's training plan
24:32 - Lack of gym access
27:43 - Post-high school plans
30:22 - Outdoor climbing
33:38 - AUDIENCE Q: Can you still be an elite climber without passion?
35:43 - Audience Q: Mindset during comps?
41:36 - AUDIENCE Q: Tips for endurance?
42:26 - Audience Q: Advice on how to break dynos?
43:23 - AUDIENCE Q: Is it hard previewing climbs with other athletes?
45:57 - Outro and where to find Annie

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