That's Not Real Climbing

Ep 11: Staša Gejo - A look into isolation


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Stasa is a boulder and lead climber (specializing in boulder) from Serbia who has been competing in international cups since 2011 as a youth climber. Most recently, she took the silver medal in the Laval European Qualifiers. In this episode, we’ll learn about Serbian funding in the sport and OQS, we’ll get a glimpse into what bouldering isolation is like, hear some tales from the commentary booth, and hear her reflect on the 2023 season.

Guest links:

Instagram

Reference links:

Career highlight - EU Champs Munich 2017 Superfinal

Koper 2022 “Heel Hookers vs Toe Hookers”

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

If you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Introduction

6:46 - Stasa's early climbing start

16:09 - Growing up in a climbing family

24:45 - How does bouldering isolation work?

33:00 - Trying to calculate your competition

35:25 - Physical and emotion state between quails, semis, and finals

39:55 - Finals mental game

42:15 - Routesetting + height (being a taller competitor)

49:31 - Interest in commentating

54:52 - Embarrassing commentating moments

57:54 - Funding the Serbian climbing team

1:04:07 - Climbing scene in Serbia, climbing resources

1:07:25 - Will comp climbing be less collaborative now that there's money involved

1:10:38 - 2023 season reflection

1:15:19 - Climbers being too starstruck to talk to each other

1:18:50 - Juggling masters degree with competitions

1:22:27 - Currently binge watching...

1:25:30 - Viola/Violin Talk

1:28:21 - How OQS works

1:31:48 - Preparing for OQS

1:35:44 - Discord Q: Do you get negative responses to your on stage emotions?

1:37:48 - Discord Q: Differences between how national teams train?

1:39:16 - Discord Q: What do you like about Munich?

1:43:16 - Discord comment: berating Janja for celebrating before clipping

1:45:06 - Discord Q: Current outdoor projects?

1:48:20 - Where to find Stasa + Outro

...more
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That's Not Real ClimbingBy Jinni Xia

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