Cody is the USA national chief routesetter, and in the 2023 IFSC season he had the opportunity to set boulders in Hachioji, Prague, Innsbruck, and the Bern world champs! In this episode, we’ll watch him read Youtube hate comments, and we’ll learn about the differences between IFSC vs USA vs commercial routesetting, as well as hear about a crazy cool gym that he will be opening up soon.

Guest links:

Cody’s Instagram

Syndicate Routesetting

Reference links:

Reel: Routesetting Testing vs Athletes Hachioji

Boulder Union - Climbing gym

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Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Introduction

2:06 - Starting climbing + routesetting at the same time

12:58 - Juggling firefighting and setting

19:03 - How he started setting for the world cups

28:26 - Favorite World Cup wall to set on

31:08 - Hate comment: Hachioji too hard

43:44 - Hate comment: Hachioji did the setters have too much free time?

46:21 - Hate comment: Hachioji should setters be able to top their boulders?

51:37 - Hate comment: Prague M4/V4

55:44 - Hate comment: Prague calibrating difficulty of static climbing

57:43 - Why Oriane won Prague instead of Janja

31:48 - Differences setting for mens vs women climbing

1:01:30 - Hate comment: Innsbruck height comments

1:15:00 - Bern: How would Janja fare on a men's course?

1:18:28 - Innsbruck: Resetting a whole boulder before the comp

1:26:37 - The future of IFSC setting evolution

1:32:05 - Lower body coordination moves

1:37:17 - Feeling self conscious among athletes and setters

1:47:04 - Getting tips for competing at Vail

1:52:35 - The time it takes to set for IFSC vs national vs local comps

1:56:44 - What makes a great route setter

2:06:00 - Anyone else feel like US nationals setting looks different from IFSC?

2:12:09 - Cody's crazy cool gym in an old bank

2:25:50 - Discord Q: World Cup climbs vs comp style boulders in a gym?

2:29:29 - Discord Q: Favorite round of world cups to set for?

2:31:23 - Discord Q: Mistakes in commercial setting?

2:34:21 - I'm traumatized by route setting

2:37:07 - Discord Q: Will there be facilities in your gym for paraclimbers?

2:39:41 - Discord Q: What kind of athlete is hardest to set for?

2:44:49 - Discord Q: How much are setters able to sway rounds for athletes?

2:52:08 - Where to find Cody