Louis Parkinson is a London-based climber and coach and is one of the best in the world at teaching dynamic movement. We talked about the benefits of indoor climbing, how practicing comp-style boulders can help your rock climbing, sending his first 8B in Magic Wood, timing your breathing with hard moves, skill drills for experienced climbers, how to break down dynamic movements, cultivating confidence, and much more!

Apply for a job at Easy Expense!

Click Here to Apply

Learn more: easy-expense.com

Check out Chalk Cartel!

chalkcartel.com

Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!

Check out PhysiVantage!

physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!

Check out Rumpl!

rumpl.com/nugget

Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!

Check out Rocky Talkie!

RockyTalkie.com/Nugget

Use this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt Mickolas

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:  

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/louis-parkinson

Nuggets:

0:04:10 – The culture of indoor climbing

0:06:45 – The benefits of climbing indoors, and Louis’ success on short outdoor trips

0:10:27 – Rehabbing my bicep tendon injury in the gym, and what I noticed on the rock afterward

0:13:55 – London

0:15:24 – A week in the life of Louis Parkinson

0:20:52 – Beginners try hard

0:24:38 – Efficiency, and dancing vs wrestling

0:30:18 – How did Louis get the nickname Captain Cutloose?

0:34:16 – Louis’ first trip to Magic Wood, and sending the Foxy Lady dyno (7C?)

0:38:56 – Riverbed 8B (V13), and his amazing tick list for the trip

0:43:30 – Comparing ourselves to our previous bests

0:48:04 – How to time your breathing with your climbing

0:55:20 – Practicing new skills medium intensity climbs

0:58:05 – How Louis thinks about practicing skills

1:01:50 – Skill Drill: Sticky hands sticky feet

1:06:25 – The Moonboard and Brad Pitt

1:08:20 – Skill Drill: Body awareness and understanding compromises

1:15:20 – Skill Drill: Using momentum

1:17:28 – My experience on Burl Master 5.13c (8a+), and learning about contextual difficulty

1:21:05 – Risk, Intensity, and Complexity

1:23:47 – How practicing modern comp-style boulders can help your rock climbing

1:29:10 – Jan Hojer flashing Jack’s Broken Heart 8A+

1:36:22 – How to break down dynamic moves into smaller pieces

1:40:18 – Forgetting the details and going for it

1:41:58 – The Inner Game of Tennis

1:47:17 – How Louis spends his limited climbing time these days

1:52:04 – Cultivated confidence

1:58:06 – Being intensional with your language

2:02:36 – Growth mindset

2:04:34 – Wrap up