Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) returns for our promised part 2! This was every bit as good as our first episode. In part 2 we focused on how to build bulletproof knees and hamstrings for heel hooks, how to prevent shoulder injuries, how to strengthen and mobilize your neck and back, some of the most common changes to climber’s bodies as we age, and more. Paul also shared helpful advice for folks who feel overwhelmed by the endless possibilities of injury prevention. 

We covered fingers, wrists, and elbows in EP 207.

Watch the Video Interview of this episode:

EP 222: Paul Houghoughi Return — Uncut Video!

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:  

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/paul-houghoughi-returns

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:03:10) – Life update from Steven

(00:11:07) – OQS banter

(00:13:34) – Recap of my first episode with Paul (EP 207)

(00:18:48) – Wrist widgets

(00:23:33) – TFCC pain & injury prevention

(00:27:41) – Knee exercises for heel hooks

(00:32:44) – Lifting straps for hamstring training

(00:35:33) – Copenhagen planks with flexed hip

(00:39:20) – Clarifying questions

(00:43:50) – Protocols for hamstring work

(00:48:52) – Nordic curls

(00:51:52) – One-the-wall rehab for knee injuries

(00:54:51) – Sumo deadlift

(00:55:51) – How to train for tweaky heel hooks

(00:58:11) – Recap of hamstring rehab

(00:59:01) – How to strengthen your neck and back for carrying crash pads

(01:08:11) – Stop firefighting

(01:10:14) – How to release tight neck muscles

(01:12:38) – Daily joint mobilization

(01:15:15) – Multifidus injury & more neck rehab ideas

(01:22:05) – Shoulder injuries

(01:27:11) – How to build bulletproof shoulders

(01:31:01) – Turkish Get-Ups and kettlebells

(01:36:03) – Doing things for a specific reason

(01:41:17) – Having a meaningful goal

(01:43:01) – Good pain vs. bad pain

(01:48:46) – Patterns in aging climbers

(01:53:20) – Good climbers vs. Olympians

(01:55:59) – Coach & clinician symbiosis

(01:58:45) – The booty thrust

(02:02:11) – Tips for aspiring Physios

(02:06:52) – How Paul maintains an 8A level

(02:11:01) – What’s next for Paul

(02:13:02) – EXTRA teaser for Patrons