Josh Hadley is a leading flexibility coach in climbing and the face behind the Lattice YouTube Channel. I’ve struggled with stretching routines over the years, and this episode completely changed my flexibility training. In this episode, Josh shares his top 4 stretches for inflexible climbers and introduces key concepts like chasing horizontal, weighted stretching, tempo, contract and relax, reducing friction, best times to stretch, and more. We also covered his recent CARCing experiment and other topics. Enjoy!

Flex Master Discount:

Use code NUGGET20 to get 20% off the Flex Master Bundle 

latticetraining.com/product/flex-master-bundle-stretching-tools

Watch the Video Interview of this episode:

EP 228: Josh Hadley — Uncut Video

Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing 

Check out the Tension Board 2!

tensionboard.com/nugget

Or use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you!

Check out Crimpd!

crimpd.com

Or download the Crimpd app for free!

PhysiVantage SUMMER SPECIAL!

physivantage.com/discount/NUG20

Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!

The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!

betterhelp.com/NUGGET

Use this link for 10% off your first month!

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:  

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/josh-hadley

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:03:59) – CARCing

(00:10:38) – Unstructured training

(00:12:13) – How Josh became the flexibility guy

(00:17:47) – Bringing critical force testing to Lattice

(00:25:25) – Flexibility assessments

(00:32:14) – Abduction

(00:32:44) – Buy in for flexibility training

(00:41:47) – How often do you need to train flexibility

(00:44:19) – The #1 flexibility exercise for boulderers (pancake)

(00:47:57) – Weighted & PNF stretching

(00:53:36) – Josh’s flexibility progress

(00:59:40) – Morphology limitations

(01:03:11) – Standing Pancake

(01:08:56) – Chasing horizontal

(01:13:43) – Tasking & motivation

(01:16:40) – Pancake stance width

(01:18:11) – Progressing the weight & tempo stretching

(01:24:51) – Do you have to warm up for flexibility training?

(01:27:40) – Pancake protocol

(01:30:06) – How Josh builds a flexibility session

(01:34:11) – Mobility vs. flexibility

(01:39:58) – Calve stretching

(01:46:01) – 4 stretches for inflexible climbers

(01:52:24) – Reducing friction

(01:55:00) – Stretching doesn’t have to look like climbing

(01:56:57) – PNF or contract-relax stretching

(02:00:57) – Best times to stretch

(02:04:41) – Breathing

(02:07:14) – When to switch to maintenance

(02:11:40) – What running does to your flexibility

(02:12:54) – Josh’s climbing & BJJ

(02:19:17) – The impact of flexibility on Josh’s climbing

(02:22:07) – Josh’s final advice

(02:25:32) – YouTube experimenting

(02:27:49) – Wrap up