Andy is a climbing PT from Process Physiotherapy. He has been climbing for over 30 years, has coached in the past, and over time has noticed climbing injuries change as the style of climbing has evolved in the competition scene. In this episode, we'll debunk some training and PT myths, talk about the differences between male and female climbers and the types of injuries they face, and we’ll hear about why he thinks fingers are strong enough.

Guest links:

Website

Instagram

Reference links:

Frontiers | Top of the podium, at what cost? injuries in female international elite climbers

Painfully ignorant? Impact of gender and aim of training on injuries in climbing | BMJ Open Sport & Exercise Medicine

Olympic competition climbing: the beginning of a new era-a narrative review - PubMed

David Barrans IFSC History

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Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:30 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:17 - Holidays

4:22 - Getting into climbing, coaching, PT

11:31 - Evolution of climbing injuries over time

19:24 - Is there any competition move that's too dangerous?

26:59 - Shoulders, hanging and catching one arm moves

36:11 - Fingers are strong enough!!

40:55 - World Cup climbers using KT tape, metal stickers, ice packs

51:14 - MYTH: Climbing ability declines as you age

1:03:00 - MYTH: Injuries happen from specific occurrences

1:07:14 - How injuries show up differently between male and female climbers

1:17:56 - Period cycles and injury

1:27:54 - DISCORD Q: How to deal with DIP issues/synovitis?

1:34:20 - Discord Q: How should an experienced climber integrate more training?

1:38:29 - A PT's new years resolution

1:40:09 - Closing thoughts + where to find Andy