Thanks for tuning into the podcast! Grace is a speed climber on the Australian team who only started climbing in late 2015 and has been competing in world cups since 2019 at the age of 15 (only 4 years of climbing before becoming world level?!?!). Grace is also open about sharing their experience being a non-binary athlete within competitive sports.

Guest links:https://instagram.com/gracecrowlye

Reference links:Classic Speed Climbing: Video

Adidas Rockstars: YT Channel

Arco Rock Master: 2023 Duel

Psicobloc: Website

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Introduction

1:17 - Covid?!?!

3:24 - Climbing for Australia as an American

5:35 - How Grace got into climbing and competing

8:18 - Making the national team after only 4 years of climbing

12:01 - Competing in boulder vs speed

14:51 - Deciding to focus on speed

16:29 - What makes a good speed athlete?

17:20 - Bad habits that need to be broken

19:49 - How to train for speed

23:30 - Can you train without a speed wall?

27:42 - Does team Australia train together?

29:21 - 2021 Visa Nightmare

32:53 - Competing as a non-binary athlete

34:50 - Would you prefer a separate, non-gendered category?

36:52 - Do you feel accepted within the climbing community?

38:54 - Reflecting on the 2023 season

41:06 - Readiness for November competition

43:54 - How The Olympics will impact 2024 World Cups

47:37 - Upcoming goals?

48:53 - Discord Q: Has it been hard finding coaches/walls?

51:18 - Discord Q: Interest in speed bouldering?

54:40 - Discord Q: Speed climbing outdoors?

56:33 - Discord Q: Future of speed climbing + formats?

1:02:46 - Outro