That's Not Real Climbing

Ep 40: Erik Noya - How Politics KILLED Venezuela Climbing


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Erik is an accomplished speed climber from Spain! In this episode, we’ll learn about how politics destroyed climbing in Venezuela, what it was like starting over with life and training in Spain, injuries in speed climbing, and we’ll get his thoughts on other speed climbing formats like relays and yearly route changes. Hear from speed climbing’s most positive athlete!

Guest links:

Erik’s Instagram

Reference links:

Climb Gurus - Clothing Brand!

Old Venezuelan IFSC Profile

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:11 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

1:59 - Training at a special facility

4:12 - How he started climbing and competing

11:00 - IFSC athlete page mixup

14:46 - Moving from Venezuela to Spain

16:07 - Why he moved away from Venezuela

24:06 - Venezuela's PREVIOUS climbing dominance

31:07 - Starting over in Spain

36:54 - The differences in speed training

40:10 - Bad speed climbing habits to break

46:40 - Reflecting on OQS and not making the Olympics

54:37 - Climbing goals for 2025 season

57:26 - Being an older climber

59:37 - Knowing when to give up

1:02:27 - Speed climbing injuries?!

1:07:32 - Life outside of speed climbing

1:13:54 - Discord Q: What is your opinion on the latest changes in FEDME particularly the firing of David Macia from the Olympics selection for 2028?

1:19:57 - Discord Q: Thoughts on relays, changing the route yearly, etc?

1:22:09 - IG Q: Why did you run the Chinese top the nobody else was?

1:25:30 - IG Q: Advice for people starting out speed climbing?

1:26:23 - IG Q: How was training in Indonesia?

1:29:52 - Words of wisdom + where to find Erik

...more
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That's Not Real ClimbingBy Jinni Xia

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