Hailey Franklin Fultz is a former competitive dancer, and a nutrition coach. For the past five years, she has used nutrition to help Matt Fultz (her husband) become one of the top boulderers in the world. We geeked out about all things nutrition: meal timing, protein synthesis, the role of carbs, supplements for climbers, strategies for fat loss, foods to avoid, navigating holidays, and Hailey’s favorite “healthified” treats.  

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patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  

Show Notes:  

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/hailey-franklin-fultz  

Nuggets:  

3:21 – Moving into the RV  

6:34 – Travel plans, meeting in middle school, and holiday family time  

8:16 – Rifle and potential plans to meet up  

9:32 – Hailey’s background in dance, dabbling in climbing, and appreciating watching climbing  

11:53 – Hailey’s history with ballet and dance, and growing a love for fitness and functional strength training   

12:44 – Becoming interested in nutrition in college, starting OTG Strength with Matt, and every calorie as a “package of opportunity”  

15:10 – Parallels between dancers and climbers in regards to nutritional needs  

16:38 – Protein synthesis overview  

20:22 – Strategies for optimizing protein synthesis, and planning meals around protein   

21:45 – Hailey’s recommended daily protein amount (about 1.6 to 2.5 or 3 grams of protein per kg bodyweight per day—note 1 kg = 2.2 lbs)  

25:57 – Hailey’s thoughts on supplements (the ingredient list should still look like food)  

28:14 – Hailey’s pitch for people who feel reluctant to eat higher protein, and the many roles of amino acids  

32:17 – Protein for pre-workout  

33:58 – Hailey’s recommendations for peri-workout nutrition/crag food  

36:40 – Alternatives to candy for quick energy at the cliff  

40:31 – More recommendations related to food timing  

43:46 – Shifting our eating around training blocks and energy needs  

46:10 – Hailey’s supplement staples for climbers (fish oil and protein powder), and “supplements are meant to fill gaps”  

48:23 – Herbs and adaptogens  

50:08 – Vitamin D supplementation and food sources  

53:18 – Hailey’s biggest bang-for-your-buck recommendations: more protein spread out throughout the day, and more fruits and vegetables  

56:42 – Prioritizing complex carbohydrates and real food at the crag  

57:51 – Hailey’s thoughts on individuality in nutrition  

1:00:48 – Carbohydrate tolerance, the liver’s many jobs, and “carbohydrates are not evil”  

1:06:25 – Foods/ingredients that everyone should avoid: artificial foods, food coloring, and trans fats (hydrogenated oils)  

1:08:55 – Hailey’s thoughts on alcohol (she recommends keeping it to 1-2 drinks per week, and on rest days)  

1:14:04 – Navigating holidays, proteinizing (or healthifying) desserts and treats, and prioritizing foods that are “worth it”  

1:18:23 – “Guilt isn’t a topping”, and “If I don’t eat it all today, I can still have some of it tomorrow”  

1:20:40 – “Weight has purpose”, Matt’s bulking/cutting/maintenance strategy, fat loss, and how to lose 5 lbs (of fat) to peak for a project (higher protein, slight calorie deficit, and fasted walks)  

1:26:26 – Matt’s morning fasted walk (30-60 minutes at a fairly brisk pace, 2-3 times per week)  

1:29:46 – How gradually to lose weight during a cutting phase  

1:31:58 – Relaxing during “bulking” phases, and the beauty of building good nutrition habits   

1:35:13 – Your taste palette changes  

1:37:07 – Summary of the big nutritional takeaways  and Hailey’s emphasis (“calories and not evil, and they’re not created equal…”)  

1:38:36 – What Hailey would say to her 20-year-old self, letting go of perfection, and the importance of sleep  

1:40:47 – More about sleep  

1:42:52 – Prioritization, saying “yes” and “no”, and “our best is worth a lot”  

1:45:50 – Moving from Idaho to Salt Lake City, working at Sprouts in the vitamin department, and “honor the stepping stones”  

1:49:02 – Morning routines  

1:50:33 – Hailey’s current book and favorite nostalgic/grounding music  

1:52:15 – Gratitude for kind people  

1:53:12 – RV life and a new learning curve  

1:53:54 – OTG Strength and what clients can expect if they work with Hailey and Matt. 

1:57:50 – Hailey’s favorite treats from the ‘Hypnotized Minds’ cheat day with Matt