Podcast #11

Training: The Past, The Present, The Future

This episode is more of a free-form podcast rather than  single-topic focused, as in the previous podcasts. I hope you enjoy it!

00:15 - Introduction to Podcast #11

00:46 – The breakthrough climbing achievement of the year….Margo Hayes ascent of La Rambla, the first consensus 5.15a redpoint by a female.

3:05 – Similarities between Margo Hayes and Alex Megos – Smart training with a long-term perspective.

6:55 – Feature topic: Training for climbing….the past, the present, and the future.

9:25 – Comments on Eric’s 40th anniversary in climbing…and 30 years as a coach, researcher, and author. Insight into Eric’s sources of inspiration…and quest for innovation in training for climbing.  

11:10 - Training for climbing….The Past: John Gill – The Father of Training for Climbing. Did you know he climbed V9/5.13+ moves in the 1960s!

16:10 – Training for climbing….The Present: The training information glut of 2017. But can you distinguish the good from the bad (advice)?

19:45 – Training for climbing….The Future: I predict a revolution! New testing and training technologies, more effective training protocols and programming, and the path to 5.16a!

27:25 – Question & Answer: “Ask Eric”

27:38 – Question 1: How do I determine my optimal body weight…in the quest of gaining a higher relative peak finger force (strength-to-weight ratio)

28:00 – Question 2: What do you think of one-arm hangboard training…with the free hand gripping a helper sling?

37:10 – How to submit a training question to Eric

38:20 – Closing comments

Music: Misty Murphy

Photo: Bruce Wilson

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