Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Episode #25: Ask Coach Hörst (Round 2)


Listen Later

Welcome to the second round of "Ask Coach Hörst"...where I answer 10 listener questions. This episode covers vast terrain from fingerboard training to climbing nutrition to youth training to elbow tendonosis and more! Each question & answer runs about 5 minutes.

1:12 - Question #1 - When fingerboard training with weighted hangs...what's the weight-added difference when doing 10" x 1 max-weight hangs compared with doing the 7"/53" x 3 protocol?

5:17 - Question #2 - Is training individual fingers by suspending a light  free weight from a sling a useful technique?

10:40 - Question #3 - What days should I do supplemental training if climbing four days per week (combined outside and indoors)?

14:47 - Question #4 - Belaying and rehab advice for recovering for a climber returning from a broken wrist?

17:37 - Question #5 - Training recommendations for a 50-something climber with extensive background in weight lifting and running?

26:30 - Question #6 - Advice on dealing with...and hopefully recovering from medial elbow tendinopathy?

31:00 - Question #7 - My anaerobic endurance (power output) drops sharply at 40 to 45 seconds into hard, sustained climbing--how can I train to improve my anaerobic capacity?

37:51 - Question #8 - Can you recommend some pre-workout foods and give advice on what to eat at the crags? Also, how much protein should I eat each day?

44:20 - Question #9 - Mother asks Eric's training advice for her 12-year-old daughter...a nationally-ranked boulderer. What's the best training approach?

49:35 - Question #10 - How to organize training when you have a hangboard at home, but your access to a training/bouldering wall is at a gym without a hangboard?

52:10 - Wrap up...How YOU can submit a question for the next episode of "Ask Coach Horst". Visit my Twitter @Train4Climbing and leave a comment to the pinned "Ask Coach Horst" podcast.

NOTE: I'll record the next episode of Ask Coach Horst in late July for release in early August. If you'd like to submit a question for the next, please leave it as a comment to the Ask Coach Horst post on my Twitter @Train4Climbing -- include your first name, location, and years climbing.

Music by Misty Murphy

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

...more
View all episodesView all episodes
Download on the App Store

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing PodcastBy Eric J. Hörst

  • 4.6
  • 4.6
  • 4.6
  • 4.6
  • 4.6

4.6

248 ratings


More shows like Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

View all
The Dirtbag Diaries by Duct Tape Then Beer

The Dirtbag Diaries

2,594 Listeners

The Enormocast: the climbing podcast by Chris Kalous

The Enormocast: the climbing podcast

1,431 Listeners

The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast by Neely Quinn

The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

370 Listeners

The Power Company Climbing Podcast by Plug Tone Audio  |  Power Company Climbing

The Power Company Climbing Podcast

426 Listeners

the Sharp End Podcast by the Sharp End Podcast

the Sharp End Podcast

1,032 Listeners

Outside Podcast by Outside

Outside Podcast

2,118 Listeners

The RunOut Podcast by Andrew Bisharat & Chris Kalous

The RunOut Podcast

341 Listeners

Uphill Athlete Podcast by Uphill Athlete

Uphill Athlete Podcast

182 Listeners

Lattice Training Podcast by Lattice Training

Lattice Training Podcast

39 Listeners

Climbing Gold by Duct Tape Then Beer

Climbing Gold

836 Listeners

The Testpiece Podcast by Testpiece

The Testpiece Podcast

69 Listeners

The Struggle Climbing Show by Ryan Devlin

The Struggle Climbing Show

176 Listeners

The Careless Talk Climbing Podcast by Sam Prior & Aidan Roberts

The Careless Talk Climbing Podcast

73 Listeners

The Strong AF Climbing Podcast by Natasha Barnes

The Strong AF Climbing Podcast

19 Listeners

Written in Stone: Climbing History by Plug Tone Audio

Written in Stone: Climbing History

94 Listeners