Neil Perry stops by fresh off landing number two on the world's 101 best steak restaurants list to share his Sydney picks: Esther in Chippendale for the potato bread and Jersey cow tartare, VN Street Foods in Marrickville for the fermented rice noodle rolls, and Happy Chef in the Haymarket food court for wonton noodle soup deconstructed. He also dropped a bombshell: pepper on a steak before cooking is wrong. It burns and goes acrid. Pepper is a finishing spice only. We are devastated and will never recover.

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