Who owns the rock? The answer is, obvi, no one … And yet some climbers sure seem to act as if they think they do. We dive into a discursive etiquette discussion after some Ten Sleep climbers hog up a rock climb all day long.

Then, Jackie Hueftle, a legend in route setting and part of the team at Kilter, joins us to talk about the art of route setting. If you think route setting is just a matter of screwing holds onto a piece of wood, you’ll be surprised to learn how much talent and physical fitness is required to be a top route setter in the climbing world. Jackie also gives us her predictions on the Olympics, given that the route-setting team is all male.

Finally, Raymon Bonner, a show listener, treats us to some original music on the “youk” (ukulele). If you’d like to submit your own idea for a Final Bit—a bit of music, a joke, fourth-wave feminist slam poetry, a surly rant—you can send in your idea to [email protected].

Show Notes

Setter Closet

“The History of Climbing Holds” by Jackie Hueftle for Route Setter magazine

“Where are all the female route setters?”

“Setting the Standard” — interviews with IFSC route setters at Gym Climber.

The RunOut #65: Beating the GOAT — Check out our last episode for more about climbing in the Olympics.

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