We’ve got a double-header today with two amazing guests.

Our first guest is Scott Johnston, a coach, trainer, and co-author of Training for the New Alpinism, with over 200,000 copies sold. Scott recently left his perch at Uphill Athlete, along with many of the coaches, to continue their work at Evoke Endurance. We talk to Scott about a healthier approach to training for comprehensive fitness, whether on the rock or in the big mountains.

Next, we speak to Libby Sauter, a family nurse practitioner and trad climber who holds the women’s speed record on the Nose. She set that record in 2014 with Mayan Smith Gobat, clocking a time of 4:43. Libby took a big step back from speed climbing after seeing her dear friend Quinn Brett break her back while trying to beat her record. In the past few years, she’s been trying to start a family with her partner, but has suffered tragic loss many times over through multiple miscarriages. Libby shares the struggle of this journey honestly and openly, with the goal of influencing other female climbers and athletes to think about what it means to have it all.

Our final bit today is some Buddy Spray for friend of the pod Wendy Williams, who, at age 48, just climbed the hardest route of her life.

Show Notes

Connect with Scott Johnston at Evoke Endurance and follow him and his team on Instagram.

Training for the New Alpinism

Libby Sauter on Instagram.

Video: Libby and Mayan break the Nose speed record.

Free (Donation-based) pregnancy and infant loss counseling

Fertility Doctor YouTube

The Turnaway Study: Cost of being denied abortions

Wendy Williams: At 48, I tried everything. Here’s What Helped Me (Finally) Send.

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