The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

TBP 204: Mistakes Made in Matt Pincus’s Own Training Plan


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In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about how he trained all winter/spring for his 5.14b project in Wyoming this summer and some mistakes he made along the way.

While Matt is a seasoned coach and climber, he was under some various constraints that made training challenging this year. One of those constraints was that Matt was working at a restaurant and coaching for a total of about 70 hours per week, so his plan needed to be efficient.

The other is that he only had a board to climb on the entire time, and not that much other equipment. He made some mistakes along the way and suffered some consequences, and he’ll tell you all about what he learned in this episode.

I think anyone listening to this episode will learn a few things about proper training tactics, whether you have similar constraints or not.

  Episode Details
  • What he did (and is doing) to train for his 5.14b project this summer
  • What went wrong
  • How he fit training in to 70+ hour work weeks
  • Injuries/inflammation that occured
  • How he’s dealing with those consequences now
  • What he would’ve done differently
  • What he learned as a coach from his own mistakes
  •     Show Links
    • Do an hour coaching session with Matt
  • Work with Matt as your coach
  • Do Matt’s Bouldering Training Program
  • Have topics you want us to cover? Email [email protected] or [email protected]
  •   Train with Matt

    Coach Matt Pincus provides training plans to climbers of all levels from anywhere in the world. If you need help with your climbing strength, power, mental game, skills, or tactics, Matt can help you. He will sit down with you over zoom to find out your goals, your available equipment, and time restrictions and then create a month-long plan for you on the True Coach app.

    You’ll have access to Matt via email and the app for however long you work with him. He also offers one-hour consultations if you just want a few questions answered or to help you build your own training program. Find out more at the link below.

    TRAIN WITH MATT   Please Review The Podcast on iTunes

    Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

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    The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastBy Neely Quinn

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