The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

TBP 297: Overcoming Mental Side of Injuries w/ Jana Unterholzner


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Jana Unterholzner has her master’s degree as a Sport and Performance Psychologist and she recently helped create an online course at unblocd.com to guide climbers through mentally recovering from injuries. I asked her to be on the show to talk about some of the tools and information she provides in that course.

In this episode, we both share some of our key experiences going through our own injuries and Jana talks about the following:

  • Why the mental side of injury matters as much as the physical
  • How injury recovery can mirror grief in practice
  • Strategies for working with fear after injury
  • Why tracking progress makes such a difference
  • Reframing injury: challenge vs. threat
  • Building resilience (vs. being born with it)
  • The role of self-compassion in recovery
  • Tools for managing negative thoughts
  • What kind of support actually helps during recovery
  • Why rehab consistency is tough — and what helps
  • Growing into someone new, rather than ‘getting back’ to your old self
  • The people at unblocd.com are offering you a 30% discount on all of their programs, including the new Injury Recovery program, and their mini programs at unblocd.com using the code “TRAININGBETA30” at checkout.

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    The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastBy Neely Quinn

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