The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

TBP 307: Board Climbing Pros, Cons, and Best Practices with Matt Pincus


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Coach Matt Pincus came on the show to talk about something he knows a LOT about: board climbing! It’s a popular topic and he gets a lot of questions from his clients about which board to use, how to use it, and for what, so we’re going to cover a bunch of info about it today. Matt is one of our coaches here at TrainingBeta and he uses boards in his own training and in his clients’ training (and just for fun and performance purposes).

Details
  • Most common questions he gets from clients about boards
  • Who should NOT use boards, if anyone
  • Training value of boards
  • Pros and cons of the popular boards (Moon, Kilter, Tension, spray wall)
  • 3 session types to train each of the energy systems
  • Common pitfalls with board climbing
  • What to use the boards for
  • What grades Matt sends on boards vs. outdoors
  • How to not get wrapped up in board grades
  • Show Links
    • Performance Bouldering Training Program ($18/mo with a 7-day free trial)
    • Performance Route Climbing Training Program ($18/mo with 7-day free trial)
    • Train with Coach Matt Pincus
    • Train with Matt Pincus

      If you want Matt to help you with your own goals, whether they’re with bouldering or route climbing, he’s available for month-long commitments where he’ll talk with you over zoom and create a program for you and keep in touch with you via the TrueCoach app throughout the month.

      He’ll help you get stronger and he’ll cater to your specific goals so that the timing is right for you to send when it’s time to send.

      Learn More about Working with Matt
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      The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastBy Neely Quinn

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