The Cellar Door Podcast

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Tom Kline writes about wine. He has written for publications including Decanter Magazine, Wine Spectator, Halliday Magazine, Winepilot, and the much-loved Gourmet Traveler Wine of happy memory. Yet most recently Tom has embraced the challenge of writing as the Australian contributor to Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy, Jasper Morris MW’s online database dedicated to showcasing the very best of Burgundy to an audience of Burgundy tragics. According to Tom, Jasper senses the importance of identifying and presenting real alternatives to Burgundy given the practical realities that make Burgundy inaccessible to many. This is the perfect assignment for Tom. A clear brief to cover the very best of pinot noir and chardonnay across the Australian landscape, while affording Tom the scope and creativity to project his own voice and style through his work. You can clearly see this in Tom's recent reports on Mount Mary, Bannockburn and less recently on Giaconda.

Tom’s childhood was spent in North East Victoria’s pristine wine country, his father working for Brown Brother’s and Tom absorbing a love of wine by osmosis. Yet, Tom’s first passion was music. I have discovered a link between wine and creativity, particularly music. Tom Kline is no different. Tom eventually discovered that wine writing afforded him both increased stability and an avenue through which to channel his natural creativity.

In our conversation, Tom and I discussed his recent work and more generally the role that wine writers play in an industry in a state of flux while also touching on the responsibility that attaches to being part of the cohort of opinion leaders who influence consumer perceptions and decision making. Tom’s approach to this is simple, though no doubt difficult. Mold your own distinct and independent voice, then scrupulously work to maintain it. Tom shares a trove of insights in this conversation which was as fascinating as it was enjoyable to engage in. A huge thanks to Tom for joining me.

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I’ve been searching for the ideal introduction to the South African wine industry for the Cellar Door Podcast. When a friend recently on holiday in South Africa messaged me and asked me if I’d heard of Anthony Hamilton Russell, I knew that opportunity had arrived. For those unfamiliar, Anthony Hamilton Russell and his family’s Hamilton Russell Vineyards are among the most esteemed names in South African wine. The story began in 1975 when Tim Hamilton Russell acquired 170 hectares of untamed land, marking the start of his quest to craft cool climate wines. In 1991, Anthony Hamilton Russell took the reins, focusing the family’s efforts on producing just one Pinot Noir and one Chardonnay. This focus channeled through two wines has solidified Hamilton Russell Vineyards’ reputation for excellence in both domestic and international markets.

Anthony is not only a vanguard of his family’s legacy but also a passionate advocate for what he calls South Africa’s “Second Renaissance” in wine. Despite centuries of challenges, from industry oversupply to broader political turmoil, Anthony believes that the way forward is through relentless effort—more “airport and airplane” than “beach and board.” In other words, winemakers must hit the road and share the fruits of their labor, as there’s no substitute for hard work. 

In our lively conversation, Anthony shared his insights on the Hemel-en-Aarde appellation, the history of Hamilton Russell Vineyards, and his thoughts on the current state of the wine industry. A heartfelt thanks to Anthony for taking the time to join me for this engaging discussion.

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In 1974 David Anderson embarked on a project in Victoria’s Heathcote region to plant vines and craft wine. His son Liam Anderson describes that David was more or less taking a shot in the dark, with no intention of founding what would become a label with a cult following across Australia and even certain locations across the globe. Liam describes customer relationships with Wild Duck Creek spanning over 30 years, the result of hours and hours of hard work, dedication and focus on delivering a premium wine experience to consumers. 

Though Wild Duck Creek has in the past found favor with critics, not to mention being the first Victorian label to score 99+ points from Robert Parker Jnr at the Wine Advocate, Liam Anderson describes how over the years, and amid a change in fashion and trends, Wild Duck Creek has stayed true to its style of bigger, richer, wine’s of balance . They don’t try to please everyone. Rather they have a singular focus on enhancing the quality of what they have done since day dot - that is, crafting the highest quality wines given the unique terroir that Heathcote offers.

Liam Anderson grew up watching his father’s ever expanding passion for Wild Duck Creek, a passion and focus that Liam says is fastidious . Liam has been managing the vineyards at Wild Duck Creek since he was 18 y/o. He’s been making the wines since he was 20. Liam has decades of Wild Duck Creek running through his veins. He has seen the evolution of Wild Duck Creek as a cult winery and is now largely responsible for its day to day management. He has inherited his father’s passion for Heathcote and dedication to the family brand. Liam joined me for an expansive conversation, on everything from Heathcote’s climate and geography, and what makes Heathcote - well - Heathcote, to the Wild Duck Creek’s story, the experience in the US market and Liam’s aspirations for the label’s future.

A huge thanks to Liam for joining me.

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Few Australian wine families can match the storied pedigree of the Hardy family, whose legacy began when Thomas Hardy founded Thomas Hardy & Sons in 1853. Thomas later purchased the Upper Tintara Vineyard in Blewitt Springs, McLaren Vale in 1871, marking the birth of a winemaking dynasty.

Today, Australian wine legend Andrew 'Ox' Hardy, the great-great grandson of Thomas Hardy, carries the McLaren Vale tradition in his veins. As the custodian of the Upper Tintara Vineyard, Andrew has pushed his team to innovate, notably through his eponymous label, Ox Hardy Wines.

Andrew's work is further strengthened by his son, Henry, who has fully embraced the family's heritage. Henry brings his own expertise, honed through multiple vintages, industry studies, and valuable experience marketing and selling both here in Australia and abroad.

Both Andrew and Henry understand the critical importance of preserving the Upper Tintara Vineyard, one of Australia's most precious viticultural sites, and they're on a mission to reinforce the strong association between the Hardy name and top-quality winemaking.

It was an absolute pleasure to sit down with Andrew and Henry, father and son, for an interview brimming with insights, stories, and charm. The Hardy family saga is a remarkable Australian story, and it was a true privilege to speak with both Andrew 'Ox' Hardy and Henry. A massive thanks to them for joining me.

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Neli Naumovski is the recently appointed national sales director at Oliver's Wines. Neli brings lengthy experience in the fine wine sector, and secondary markets and has teamed up with Jeremy Oliver to launch the old rare and collectable wine project which incorporates a unique classification system. It was this classification aspect which caught my attention. I've previously spoken with Huon Hooke on my show about the classification system at the Real Review and so when I heard there was a new system entering the market, I wanted to get the inside scoop. Neli was good enough join me to give a crash course on this new project, the secondary market and for an update on all her projects at Olivers Wines. A massive thanks to Neli for joining me. 

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Presqu’ile (‘press-keel’) is a family-owned winery in the Santa Maria Valley dedicated to crafting exceptional  Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Syrah. Roughly translating in French to “Peninsula”, Presquile was the Murphy family’s gathering place in the Mississippi Gulf Country who after Hurricane Katrina, decided that they would name their winery in homage to the place that engendered a conviviality among family and friends, evoking a warmth of human spirit and a rapport among all who “passed a good time” there. 

 In 2007 the Murphy family set out to find the perfect place to farm pinot noir and chardonnay, a search that spanned America’s West coast, from California up to Oregon. The Santa Maria Valley in Santa Barbara Wine County won out, and the Murphy’s set about building what has become one of the most beautiful wineries in California with a wine experience to match. South African born Dieter Cronje has been making wine with the Murphy family since Presquile’s beginning. Dieter was drawn to California on the tales of promise of its wine industry and never left. Dieter invited me back to Presquile to enjoy some Santa Maria hospitality and I took the opportunity to capture his journey and perspectives on Presquile, Santa Maria and everything in between. A massive thanks to Dieter for joining me. 

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On this episode, I had the pleasure of catching up with Jeremy Oliver to get his insights on the latest developments in the Australian wine industry. We dive into Treasury Wine Estates’ recent decision to part ways with iconic brands Wolf Blass, Yellowglen, and Lindeman’s, and we explore Jeremy’s perspective on the broader market dynamics. While the challenges persist and the road ahead is long, it’s clear that resilience, determination, and will be the defining traits of those who succeed in these tough times. A huge thanks to Jeremy for joining me

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The Balnaves family first arrived in South Australia’s Coonawarra District in 1855. It's worth taking the time to research the story of William Wilson (available on the Balnaves website) to truly appreciate how deeply the Balnaves family is intertwined with the history of South Australian wine. Fast forward to 1971, when a young and ambitious Doug Balnaves was hired by Hungerford Hill to establish 100 hectares of vineyards. In 1974, Doug received a winemaking masterclass from Bill Redman, affectionately known as "the Grand Old Man of Coonawarra," which played a pivotal role in igniting and fueling Doug’s passion for crafting exceptional red wine.

In 1975, the first Balnaves vines were planted, covering 2.5 hectares each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, which are still flourishing 49 years later. In the ensuing years, Kirsty and Pete Balnaves returned to the family business, joined by Pete Bissell as the winemaker, who led the winemaking team for over 25 vintages. During this time, Balnaves went from strength to strength, with the Tally winning Jeremy Oliver's Wine of the Year in 2004 and Balnaves being named Halliday's Winery of the Year in 2008.

In 2018 Jacinta Jenkins, known as JJ to her friends, joined the Balnaves team. A native of Coonawarra, Jacinta brought her global wine education back to her roots, making it particularly fitting that she took on the role of head winemaker in 2020, when Pete Bissell passed the torch to her. Jacinta has quickly made her mark, being shortlisted for Halliday Winemaker of the Year this year—a true testament to her hard work and talent.

Jacinta recently joined me on the show to provide a glimpse into what’s happening across Coonawarra and at Balnaves. A huge thanks to Jacinta for sharing her insights.

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In this episode, we delve into the remarkable journey of Legend Wine Imports, a venture spearheaded by two American sommeliers, Jonathan Ross and Jane Lopes. Their path to success took an unexpected turn when they immersed themselves in the vibrant Australian wine industry. The duo first crossed paths at New York’s esteemed Eleven Madison Park before making the bold decision to relocate to Australia. Jane found her niche at Melbourne’s acclaimed Attica Restaurant, while Jonathan took charge of the wine program for the Rockpool Group. This transformative experience deepened their appreciation for Australian wine, ultimately inspiring them to co-author "How to Drink Australian." This book captures the essence of Australian wine through the lenses of history, terroir, and the nation’s unwavering commitment to viticulture and winemaking excellence. Jonathan and Jane have since become passionate advocates for Australian wine in the USA, tirelessly working to enhance its presence and reputation. Join me as I sit down with Jonathan to explore his fascinating story and the origins of Legend Wine Imports.

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This episode was an extremely special way to close out what was a truly magical time in Santa Barbara Wine County – spending over an hour with two legends of the Santa Barbara, and wider Californian wine industry. You will all know Wes Hagen - wine maker, philosopher and poet, who I’ve been blessed to have previously on the show multiple times. Yet today Wes was in a supporting role. Wes and I sat down with one of the original pioneers of Santa Barbara, Mr Ken Brown. Ken Brown was among the first vintners to realize the tremendous promise for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in this cool-climate appellation beginning in the mid 1970s. He was also the first winemaker to introduce Syrah, as well as Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc, to Santa Barbara County. In this conversation Ken regales us with stories, perspectives and very special insights on the Santa Barbara scene – and I sat there like an awe struck schoolboy hanging onto every word Ken and Wes spoke. I often feel at risk of becoming too absorbed in wine’s romanticism – but then conversations like these, with two legends of the game, make me so comfortable with that feeling  - the feeling that wine is only truly understood when you cross over from the science and forensics and enter into the realm of story, romanticism, identity and poetry. This was an extremely special conversation to record, and I hope you enjoy it as much as I did. A huge thanks to Wes and Ken for joining me. 

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