《闲话英伦》-“紧身裤袜”重新定义男性时尚新风潮？

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Okay, we've talked so much about the word dandy itself and also Beau Brummell, but still I think our listeners probably just can't really imagine in their mind’s eye how a dandy would dress, is it more like you have feather there and really like flamboyant, really out there, all the colors?

No.

OKAY.

In the past, men would wear very bright colors, dandies would focus more on the material, design, and the overall fit of the clothes. They would actually wear dark colors.

Oh yes, because before the aristocratic the upper class in Britain or in England would draw influence from the French court where everything's like puffy and bright color and really kind of out there. But...so dandyism actually made it a little bit more sophisticated.

Oh yeah. People used to take the time because if you think about it in the past, people didn't really care about their personal hygiene. They didn't wash, because all they had to do was put on a wig, put on something bright, cover themselves in perfume and they're done.

Whereas dandies would focus for hours on their hair. They would actually try to make themselves clean and they would focus on just getting the clothes looking just right.

So it's... dandies are not trying to look effeminate. They're not trying to look feminine. They try to look like a very sophisticated men.

Yeah, and it's the dandies who have had the biggest influence over how men dress nowadays.

You know what it  reminds me of, I don't know if our listeners have heard of the idea of 绅装.

安澜, have you heard of the Chinese words, 绅士的绅, 服装的装, if you check on Chinese social media or just any of the online store, you check 绅装, you will see lots of the stores, lots of the actual clothes. I think that is very much linked with dandyism.

It's just fitted clothes and sort of bespoke, there’s actually a bespoke有一个定制西装的品牌就叫做MR Dandy actually in China.

 Yeah, I've heard about it.

 So is that the case.

It is, and as I was saying before, the clothes that they wore are the clothes that we wear nowadays. So for example, they made trousers popular for men.

OKAY. So what did they use to wear, skirts?

They used to wear breeches.

Breeches are shorts?

Like shorts, with tights.

Oh. So those pictures that you see was the French court.

Yeah. SO they would have breeches that go down the knees and then they wear tights.

就是那种短裤. 大家看到原来法式宫廷那种puffy breeches, 底下那种紧身裤袜.

Sometimes puffy breeches. But most of the time just very well fitted breeches.

Oh Yes.of course .of course. So then they started abandoning those, and they started wearing trousers as we see today.

Yes. And we talked about cravat became ties and they would wear dark coats which later became blazers.

You know All of these stereotypes about British gentlemen how would they dress, it sounds like it started from this whole dandyism.

I would say that's where a lot of the modern suit comes from, the whole idea of this is how a man should dress.

What about the perfume? Did they change that, I... before it was just to cover the smell.

But now they focus on their own personal hygiene more, so they probably use a bit of perfume but not too much.

Sounds like a nice way to sort of like to change into, to be honest.

Well. I don't have the time, but I do like the idea of men really focusing on how they dress, kind of get in their outfits right making sure that they're wearing kind of clean presentable clothes. I'm not dandy by any stretch of imagination.

I would say you're more dandy compared to the average men.

I do think a lot about how I dress, yes I do.

I probably wouldn't call you metrosexual, 安澜, but you are getting there.

Well I don't care about my hair sufficient enough to be metrosexual