Lattice Training Podcast

Pull up a chair and grab yourself a line of developer code, you're about to listen to a bit of the story all about the origins of Crimpd! 

Tom Randall sat down with one of the founders of Crimpd, Peter Klimek, to take a step back in time to where things all started between Lattice and Crimpd. They discuss how the partnership came about, all the way through to where we're looking to go in the future and where training and technology could potentially go. 

This one's very much of a 'behind the scenes' chat of all things Lattice & Crimpd, so if you're not aware of what the Crimpd App actually is, go and download it right now so you know what they're talking about!  

Topics covered:

1. Peter’s background in IT and tech and how he got into app development from cyber security.

2. The origin story behind Crimpd, the collaboration with Lattice and how it all happened.

3. What are the key features to getting an app experience right and how does this relate to training.

4. What is Crimpd next developing. 

5. What he would advise to anyone interested in working in the tech sector.

6. What is the future of apps and tech in climbing, and its influence on training.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this podcast Maddy talks to James Spragg, a cycling coach and physiologist, about energy systems. James talks through the different energy systems, the relationship between intensity and energy system contribution, takes a deep dive into the aerobic energy system and how to train it effectively, and talks about profiling our energy systems in order to inform training.

Topics covered:

1:30 - A bit about James and his journey in cycling, academia and coaching

3:35 - James’ PhD

7:30 - Overview of energy systems 

13:06 - Energy systems are synergistic

14:01 - The hyperbolic force-time relationship

18:03 - The relationship between intensity and energy system contribution

21: 40 - Cause of muscle fatigue

27:45 - The aerobic system and sustainable exercise

29:52 - The importance of capillarisation and training the aerobic system

37:30 - Lactate. The myth demystified. 

42:09 - Pump, RPE and the feeling associated with training the aerobic system in long duration and interval sessions

46:00 - Why power endurance doesn’t maximise aerobic system development

50:00 - The glycolytic system; discussion of adaptation pathways

55:44 - Recovery from aerobic base sessions and frequency

58:00 - Getting the aerobic base training in. Spinning plates in training.

1:00:32 - What impacts rate of adaptation in aerobic training

1:03:00 - Previous training history and getting back to a certain level faster

1:06:00 - Different ways to get to the same goal. Exploring different approaches effectiveness through testing, intervention, retesting

1:13:05 - Different training scenarios and approach people can take to address training for a sport project

1:24:36 - Balancing strength and endurance

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this podcast, Maddy talked to Emily Elgar, who is a pelvic health physiotherapist based at Katie Bell Physio in Sheffield. They talk about topics relating to pregnancy and postpartum, such as pelvic health, delivery and recovery, and pelvic organ prolapse. Emily talks about her approach to pelvic health during pregnancy and postpartum, from her perspective as a life coach as well as for exercise. Emily also shared a number of great resources that support this conversation that can be found in the show notes. 

Some of the topics covered are;

• The changing landscape of pelvic physio in relation to pregnancy and postpartum
• Back and pelvic girdle pain and how we can manage it
• The pelvic floor; finding it, training it and timeframes
• Delivery and initial recovery postpartum
• C-section recovery
• Pelvic organ prolapse. 

This is a massive area, with so much to delve into. If you are interested in strength training then check out our podcast with Joy Black, or our podcast with UMI-Health about the pelvic floor.

Resources from Emily:

Reframing return-to-sport postpartum: the 6 Rs framework

https://bjsm.bmj.com/content/54/6/360

https://www.acog.org/clinical/clinical-guidance/committee-opinion/articles/2020/04/physical-activity-and-exercise-during-pregnancy-and-the-postpartum-period

Home Page - Burrell Education

Home Page - Squeezy (squeezyapp.com)

www.hlp-therapy.co.uk  (c-section) 

Its You Babe V2 Supporter | StressNoMore   (Prolapse support)

Kegel Exerciser with App | Perifit - Perifit (United Kingdom) 

Elvie Trainer | Smart Pelvic Floor Exerciser and App | Elvie | Elvie

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

This episode is a BIG one! We’ve got on the show today, Eric Horst, one of the original founding fathers of modern training theory for climbing and a total legend of the climbing world in general…. This episode is going to be hardcore training and more training! 

In many ways, what we’ve tried to achieve at Lattice has been built upon the foundation of work, theory and practice of climbers like Eric who have made a significant contribution to the industry’s knowledge via books, podcasts, videos and many articles. 

As there’s an almost unlimited amount of items we’d like to cover in this interview, we’ve tried to distil down Eric’s knowledge, opinion and experience into a number of ‘big ticket’ items that relate to many of us, when it comes to climbing training and performance. Sit back, grab yourself a cup of tea and enjoy… 

Key topics in this episode:

1. Endurance
2. Strength
3. Performance Profiling 
4. Fingerboarding
5. System boards

For anything related to PhysiVantage please check out Eric’s in depth website over at: https://physivantage.com/

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

You DM'd us, and we have answered, so today we have the guy who gained everyone's attention in early 2021 with his infamous 30-day fingerboard routine. We cover a broad range of topics, which should answer all of the questions you sent to us via Instagram, and other social media!

Emil is an incredibly experienced climber, representing Sweden in competitions, climbing outdoors, and of course sharing his journey through his Youtube channel. Recording his training, and sharing his big goals of sending "The Big Island", Emil really shows his versatility as a climber. So, don't expect this interview to be all about fingerboarding!

Lastly, he has recently made the choice to move full time into a 'van-life' way of living, committing to full-time climbing and filmmaking. Other than his fingerboard experiment, we will also discuss how he balances indoors vs outdoor climbing and what he’s experienced during his transition to van living. 

1. How Emil's fingerboarding idea started
2. Emil's reaction to the feedback from the fingerboarding video
3. Will he repeat or change the fingerboarding procedure from the initial video?
4. How this fingerboarding procedure affected his strength
5. How he balances indoors with outdoors
6. How Emil's height or weight affects this performance
7. Where the focus for "The Big Island" came from
8. Footwork
9. Van life
10. Internal and external expectations with YouTube
11. So far what have been the pros and cons of this change
12. Where Emil sees himself in the near future

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Welcome to part 2 of this interview with the climbing legend Dave MacLeod. This week Lattice coach Maddy delved even deeper into Dave's climbing and training approach, by diving straight into chatting about his famous nutrition experiments and approaches to balancing a keto diet with his own training and climbing.
 
 We also hear more about Dave's personal standpoints on nutrition and the mental aspects related to dieting, particularly in the climbing world.
 
 As providers of nutrition services and information to the climbing community, we know all too well about the risks and the strong feelings that can be attached to dieting*, especially alongside high intensity training, so this is also covered in this interview.
 
Don't forget to catch up on Part 1, where Dave and Maddy discussed;

📌Dave's approach to training and climbing
📌How he applies his understanding of science to his practice
📌How the mental side of climbing evolved for him
📌His process on hard climbs and headpoints
📌The consideration of specificity in training for climbing goals
📌Stepping things up to 9a+ 🔥

*Please note that nutrition is highly individual and if you are struggling with disordered eating you should seek the help of a qualified professional.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project. 

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In the Lattice Training podcast today we have another guest from the arm lifting world whose long term track record of training, competing and record breaking accomplishments is rarely rivalled across the grip strength sports. It’s rare that we get to interview someone who’s really been focusing on something so specific to climbing performance - AKA grip strength - for over 20 yrs. 

Eric Roussin, is from Canada and has a long history of competitive arm wrestling, having started as a teenager in 1996 and has been competing in Grip Sports for just over 10 yrs. He won the Canadian overall National Title 5yrs in a row and also a gold medal in the World Arm Lifting Championships on the Rolling Thunder and has the world record on Napalms Nightmare and 2 arm thick bar lift.  

Interestingly, Eric is a blend of competitor and historian so he’s got an incredible knowledge of what’s developed over time and an understanding of training and performance methodology, which at Lattice, we’re always interested to learn more about! 

Check out in the show notes at the bottom, some really useful links provided by Eric, who kindly provided us all with some signposting to learn more on this front. 

In today’s episode we covered:

1. What got Eric into arm wrestling originally and his formative years of training.
2. What he thinks about grip or hand strength in arm lifting and the repercussions for training methodology or approach. 
3. His thoughts on the differences between arm lifting and arm wrestling.
4. How he trains for grip lifting, rather than grip pulling or hanging.
5. Whether he does any cross-training.
6. How important he thinks strength in the entire kinetic chain is. Are there any common “weak” links he sees?
7. What does the grip sports community think of fingerboarding.
8. What are the King Kong Grip Challenges. 

David Horne - site: http://www.davidhorne-gripmaster.com/index.html

David Horne Basic training routine video: https://youtu.be/FGuVJAj96SE 

Grip Board (the world’s most popular grip strength related forum): www.gripboard.com (event King Kong details can be found in the Grip Contests section)

Popular facebook page for all things grip: https://www.facebook.com/groups/330749460395996 Eric’s websites: www.canadagripsport.com & www.thearmwrestlingarchives.com

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Settle down and get comfy because Dave MacLeod is in the house and you are going to want to hear this one! We were recently lucky enough to have Dave MacLeod come down to the Lattice Training HQ and dive into all things climbing and training!

In this podcast Dave and Lattice coach Maddy Cope sat down and had a good old chat! 

Tune in to find out more about;

📌Dave's approach to training and climbing

📌How he applies his understanding of science to his practice

📌How the mental side of climbing evolved for him

📌His process on hard climbs and headpoints 

📌The consideration of specificity in training for climbing goals 

📌Stepping things up to 9a+ 

This interview covers many things in between these topics, so be sure to tune in for so much more - plus we've also split into two parts, so keep an eye out next week for part 2.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Today we have a true legend of finger strength - the one and only Yves Gravelle. He has some of the strongest fingers in the world, pound for pound and has demonstrated this in both the climbing and arm lifting world, whilst also holding down a full time job and the added role of parenting on top of that. 

In terms of his climbing, Yves is an International comp athlete, having represented Canada for a number of years, he’s bouldered V15 and repeated and established multiple problems in the double digit range. For Arm Lifting, he is 3 x APL World Champ, the lightest person the lift the Thomas inch dumbbell and has a PB of 105kg on the Rolling Thunder.

If you’re someone who’s interested in the opinion, practices and methods of an athlete at the top 0.0001% of their game, when it comes to building strong fingers, then listen in hard!

In this episode we cover the following topics:

1. Yves's classic feats of strength.
2. His early climbing years.
3. The tools in the last 20 yrs that he's felt were most effective.
4. How often he trains grip strength. 
5. How he balances that with normal climbing.
6. What has been the role of arm lifting and when he got into it.
7. Are arm lifters doing anything different to climbers?
8. Hang vs lift tools for finger strength training.
9. How he 'transfers' his training strength across into climbing.
10. His balance of low intensity and high volume training.
11. How he trains with limited time and resources. 
12. His tips for climbers getting into their first season of arm lift training.

Yves' Sponsors: Bloc shop, Kailas, Tembo, Digit Climbing, Xcult USA, Coyote rock gym

His YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/yvesgravelle/videos

His Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/yvesgravelle/?hl=en

I’m from Ottawa, Canada

Been climbing for 22 years. 

Ex Canadian National Bouldering team member. 7-8 time???

3 x arm lifting World Champion (APL federation)

8C boulder

Multiple World records and class world records order  in the sport of Armlifting. 

Feats Highlight 

- lightest person the lift the Thomas inch dumbbell

- 6mm one arm pull-up and deadhang

- lattice test edge + 32kg

- 105kg on the rolling thunder

- 1-5-9 with construction gloves 

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Tom Randall is back with another solo podcast session, following on from the recent "Common Mistake in Endurance Training" that was very popular. Like the previous format, he explores the big issues that climbers will typically have when training or preparing their power endurance.

In part 1, he breaks down the critical factor of 'specificity' and why you need to address it on the three fronts of technical, psychological and physical preparation. Ignoring, or wrongly addressing almost any of these elements will significantly impact both the effect of your training and the performance outcomes. Get them right though, as you're talking about huge steps towards success!

Technical:

1. Rock types and associated movement patterns.
2. Specific move types and efficiency within them.
3. Learning how to climb fast AND slow at your project/goal grade

Psychological:

1. Accessing your 'try hard' zone with correct focus and frequency
2. Learning to relax to the demands of the goal and not 'wasting' energy.
3. Training to rest appropriate for your project.
4. Chalking up ratios
5. Terrain recognition and environmental stress/familiarity
6. Fears of heights, exposure and falling

Physical:

1. Pacing for contraction and relaxation ratios.
2. Hold size and types relative to muscle activation and soft tissue demands.
3. Specificity of project demands on ancillary muscle groups such as core, back and legs.
4. Skin and pain conditioning
5. Respecting the specificity of volume, intensity and 'section' interval frequency when training

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.