Lattice Training Podcast

In today's podcast Maddy Cope talks to Martina Demmel. Martina started climbing at the age of 15, and is now 20,  and despite the fairly short climbing career so far, she has a vast number of hard sport climbs under her belt.

Her sport climbing is characterised by fast ascents and hard onsights, as well as achieving so across many different styles. Last year she climbed her first 9a - Joe Cita - and joined the small club of female climbers that have on sighted 8b+, with her onsight of Humildes pa Casa. 

Main Topics:

• Martina’s background in skiing and how this translated to climbing
• Building a large pyramid and climbing routes quickly
• Being short and finding your own beta
• Mindset and approach to climbing
• Different ways of approaching outdoor and competitive climbing

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In todays episode, Tom Randall sits down with Lor Sabourin, who is an unwavering advocate for the non-binary and trans community in climbing, and has a lot to share. Their work in Warriorsway is very valuable, equipping climbers with resilient and flexible minds to deal with stress and anxiety. These mental tools are not just useful for climbers but can come in handy for everyday life.

Tom and Lor met through the trad community in USA, with both having a common interest in crack climbing.  Lor keeps crushing outdoor climbing, as they are not only a training leader for Warriorsway, but also a rock guide and professional climber who has climbed up to 5.14, with some pretty scary sends. 

So, if you're interested in some food for thought, take a listen to today's podcast and let us know if you enjoyed it!

Main topics:

• How Warriors way helped them with their fear of falling
• Mental Toughness VS Mental agility
• How to tackle controllable and uncontrollable factors in climbing
• Realistic climbing journaling 
• Limits VS Boundaries
• Tips on fear of falling

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Having a family and climbing means a lot of planning and rotating your projects in order to be able to project without missing prime seasons in different crags.  So, today we have the second part of Martin Keller's interview with Tom Randall, where they reveal some of their secrets for juggling it all.

Martin, or @swizzybouldering is known by some for getting fairly obsessed with
performing, which has resulted in him sometimes over training, not resting and
not looking at conditions. However he has started to see the benefits of a more
structured approach, as well as picking and choosing the days to get his
project. So tune in to find out more about his approach in this department.

Main topics:

• Being obsessed with a project and how to manage optimal conditions
• Benefits of fingerboarding with a structural plan
• Managing training with family
• Putting it all together at the end (timing, little extras, partners, and doubt)

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

On a rare occasion, you get a climber who has climbed impressive grades, but their performance metrics put them on weaker grades. Typically this means that the climber has something special or elite about another facet of their performance, away from pure physiology. And what better way to understand this better than for Tom Randall to sit down with Martin Keller, who is also known as 'SwizzyBouldering', to talk about how he approaches his projecting and has become one of these rare cases.

Today's podcast will be about all things projecting, and how strategy, mindset, and technical preparation to deal with the exact physical demands of the rock can help you send harder!

We hope you enjoy it, and remember to keep an eye out for part 2.

Main topics:

• Deciding on a project
• How early do you visit a project and try the moves?
• What is your strategy for breaking it down?
• Do you use certain tools that others don’t? Fans, ladder, rope?
• What’s important for mindset in projecting?

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

• Australia's Climbing scene
• Sport climbing for Boulderers
• Bouldering for Sport climbers
• Climbing grade progression
• Juggling Sport vs Route climbing and training plan periodisation
• Projecting at your limit

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Today we have another returning guest having previously chatted on the show, with her partner in crime Kyra Condie. Who is both accomplished in indoor competitions as well as in outdoor climbing, having climbed up to V14! Please welcome back to the show .... Allison Vest!

Allison first came to the attention of us at Lattice through a piece of data funnily enough. Quite some time ago, Tom Randall was compiling a list of the greatest finger strength levels ever measured in female athletes and Allison was right at the top.
Naturally, he wanted to dig into the information a bit further as the numbers were pretty outrageous! 

Over the last few years, Allison has risen to the position of one of the most accomplished outdoor boulderers in the world having climbed up to V14, which is also on top of a track record of multiple competition podiums for indoor competition climbing. On top of this, she’s someone who has a prolific social media presence, seamlessly connecting between content that’s both light-hearted and serious, but always with such an accessible style. We wanted to get her back on the podcast to talk about all things performance, training and bouldering focused. 

Tune in to hear all about:

• Her transition from coached to self-coached climbing
• How she manages training vs performing
• Her thoughts on resting
• How she trains on a fingerboard
• What her ‘personal bests’ or scores on a fingerboard are
• Testing with Camp4 Human Performance
• Working ‘strengths’ vs working ‘weaknesses’ in climbing
• Her personal warning signs for when to not strength train
• How to access the ‘top end’ in bouldering
• How she deals with the ‘a Muerte’ attitude towards training and performance

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this episode, we have one of the Lattice athlete team, Anna Hazelnutt, returning to the podcast with Tom Randall to discuss her incredible run of climbing performance since last year. We last interviewed her, with just a few trad leads under her belt and her first 5.14 sport climb. Since then, she’s gone on to repeat two of the most iconic E9s in the UK - ‘Once Upon A Time In The Southwest’ and also ‘Walk of Life’ in a remarkable trajectory of grade.

We talk to Anna about why she originally chose to try Once Upon A Time In The Southwest, how she justified attempting an E9 with almost no trad experience and her methods for controlling fear and anxiety in stressful situations. She also shares with us her strategies for breaking down projects, all the way from the start to the middle ‘messy’ region and finally the ‘end’ where an attempt is imminent. 

Finally, Anna talks through how she’s specifically dealt with the 2 current season projects (Walk of Life and The Quarryman) and her ‘book chapter’ approach for breaking down long and hard routes that take multiple sessions. Tom also discusses the ‘uncertainty bucket’ concept and how this relates to his own climbing and those projects he’s shared with Anna as a climbing partner this past year. 

Topics covered:

1. Anna’s background in highball climbing and sport climbing
2. Her first trip to the UK and how an E9 was chosen
3. The process of projecting Once Upon A Time In The Southwest
4. How she controls her fear and anxiety on lead
5. Anna’s ‘book chapter’ method for visualising and breaking down projects
6. How her current projects have gone and what she’s learnt
7. The ‘uncertainty bucket’ concept
8. Her plans for the future

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

For today's podcast, Tom Randall sits down with Molly Mitchel,  a pro climber with a very unique story. Having come out of a climbing gym, she is now a rising star in the trad community. Who seemingly quickly decided to get into hard and very bold trad, having done accents in Colorado mountains, including China Doll, a super techy 5.14 climb.

With more danger inevitably comes more risk and Molly sadly broke her back on her project "Crank It" 5.13+. Having fractured L2 and L3 vertebrae, getting back climbing can be a daunting and lengthy process. However, this really didn't stop her, and in 2021 Molly reached out to Lattice to get some coaching for overcoming her physical and mental trauma in order to finally send this route!

So sit down and enjoy this coach-to-athlete interview as Tom and Molly discuss the work they put together in order for her to revisit the scene of her accident and conquer her demons.

Topics covered:

• Molly's indoor climbing journey
• Her first Trad climbing experiences
• The mental game needed for bold climbing
• How her accident impacted her approach to climbing
• Setting goals to work on mental trauma, and commuting to them
• What Molly learned from the whole process
• Final stages of projecting, including mental state control and confidence

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Have you ever wondered about extreme margins of performance, well today's podcast is the right one for you! Dominic Rowe, a client of Lattice, just got his first 8a / V11 under  2 years, and we couldn't be prouder. His amazing progress in an insanely small amount of time just blows our minds, so we had to have him come in and talk about it all.

Training and hard work are all part of the equation, but what really gets climbers to accomplish such hard grades so early on? Well, Tom Randall sits down with Dominic to talk about tactics, hard work, and the passion behind his journey. So grab yourself a pair of headphones and get training with the motivational story behind this speedy progression!

Main episode topics:

• Dom's Boxing and athletic background
• Transferable skills
• What he learnt from his professional elite climber friends
• How he projects like a professional climber
• His view on mindset and performance for growth and progress
• Why climbing makes him so happy

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In today's Lattice podcast, we bring you Moonboard Royalty, the one and only, Mr Ravioli Biceps! Most of you probably already know him for his impressive and focused Moonboard achievements over on his Instagram. Ravioli has completed 413 of the benchmarks Moonboard 2016 set up, and most of the 2019 set up, placing him among the elite. Ravioli also has his fair share of outdoor ticks, with grades up to V14, so he is definitely very capable in both formats of bouldering.

We will be keeping Ravioli's anonymity, but don't worry as there is much more to Ravioli than his nickname. So sit down, or if you're training, prepare your headphones, because we will learn all about this veteran of system boarding and what his approach to projecting is like.

Topics covered:

• Why the name RavioliBicepts?
• When did his focus on MoonBoarding start?
• What Ravioli's warm-up and projecting looks like
• Does he go back to old projects?
• What he has gained from being so focused 
• Common MoonBoard misconceptions 
• Ravioli's very strong sense of community and how it links to his MoonBoarding Journey

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.