Lattice Training Podcast

You might well have heard of today's guest, Ryan Devlin as he has become pretty well known for hosting his podcast - The Struggle Climbing Show. Over the years he has interviewed a number of fantastic and legendary climbers including:  Alex Honnold, Lynn Hill to name a couple.

However something you might not know about Ryan, is that he has been a Lattice client for the last few years. So today coach Tom Randall is flipping the mic and putting  Ryan on the interview podium to chat about his own personal climbing and training journey. 

Ryan is a father of two and also holds down two jobs. On top of this he has improved his climbing grade from f6c+ to f7b+ just in the last year, so he has a lot to share on the hard work he has put in.  Although elements of his climbing journey has been discussed previously in some of his own interviews, today we will deep dive into his personal 'climbing struggles'.

Topics covered:

• Ryan’s background in climbing and the journey up until starting a training plan 
• What goals he set for himself and how his move to Red River Gorge impacted this
• Meeting Eric Horst at the crag and his initial experiences with training
• Ryan’s assessment strengths and weaknesses and how he tackled his finger strength
• Converting power endurance into performance
• What did deload weeks involve. 
• His goals for flashing 12a and redpointing 13a
• How running The Struggle Climbing Show has helped his climbing
• This coming season and plans for a Lattice Training collab! 

Link to Ryan's podcast:
https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this podcast, Maddy sits down with Kevin Roet to talk about the fear of falling and ways to integrate fall practice into climbing. Psychology and fear are complex topics, but fear of falling is undoubtedly something that impacts many climbers' enjoyment and performance. Kevin described his personal journey that has led to him writing a book on this topic; Climbing Psychology: Mind training for optimal climbing performance

Main topics:

• Kevin’s journey and overcoming fear of falling
• Developing self awareness
• Understanding the theory alongside implementing the practice
• Focusing on the process and understanding your expectations
• Managing risk in fall practice
• Kevin’s approach to practical application of fall practice outdoors

Links to book here: 

https://shop.riseandsummit.co.uk/

https://www.wolverinepublishing.com/store/climbing-psychology/

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In today's podcast, Tom Randall talks to Renee McGregor, a hugely experienced sports dietician whose career has spanned 20 years, including the London Olympics, Rio Paralympics and Commonwealth Games in Queensland. 

She’s also recently written a (5th) book ‘More Fuel You’ which covers the nutritional needs for sport participation, training, competitions etc.  This book looks at a number of the most popular diet options for athletes including low carb, vegan and intermittent fasting. 

One additional area that today's podcast will focus on is the topic of dysfunctional relationships with food that some athletes may experience at some point in their life and how this impacts their performance, health and long-term careers. 

• Where Renee's journey in food and nutrition started
• Classic misunderstandings athletes have in her industry
• How do elite athletes differ from amateurs
• How sports differ from each other
• How the concept of fueling changes with age
• Key differences in Orthorexia, Anorexia, Bulimia and Binge Eating Disorder
• Pros and Cons of diet choices
• Important fueling element of the different population type groups

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Today coach Maddy Cope talks to John Kiely who is an elite performance coach and lecturer with experience across numerous sports. 

John explains the importance of our mindset and beliefs when it comes to training. It can be easy to fall into the trap of thinking physical adaptations are a case of “training stimulus in”, and “gains out” and in turn this has led us to coin the terms “responders” and “non-responders”. John explains the deeper complexity of physical adaptations in terms of the impact of our perceptions and introduces the concept of predictive processing and coding. and the idea of responders and non-responders. 

This podcast is a call for us to think more about our training approach, be curious about our monitoring and what works for us at any given time, and build trust in the process.

Main topics:

• The importance of trusting the process in training
• A discussion of the generalisation of training principles
• Understanding the complex of adaptation
• The importance of mindset in training 

John's email and social media for queries: 
[email protected]

https://twitter.com/simplysportssci

https://www.instagram.com/simplysportssci/

 https://www.linkedin.com/in/john-kiely-a77b9119/

https://www.researchgate.net/profile/John-Kiely/research

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this podcast Lattice coach Maddy Cope talks to Dr Stacy Simms, a sport physiologist from New Zealand that has focused on female physiology in her research as well as published books. She is perhaps best known for coining the phrase “women are not small men”. 

In this episode we talk about the menstrual cycle, how Stacy views the current research, and how she arrives at practical application of this information in a training context.

Some of the topics covered in this episode are:

• Changing the conversation around the menstrual cycle
• An overview of the menstrual cycle
• The different areas of research when it comes to the menstrual cycle
• The idea behind phase based training
• Tracking
• Supplements
• The hormonal changes that occur in the lead up to the menopause
• Training during perimenopause and post menopause
• Changes in body composition and nutritional considerations

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

HOT OFF THE PRESS! Aidan Roberts just climbed Alphane, a 9A in Chironico  this week, so we got him to sit down with Tom Randall interview to discuss the news, the process and Aidan’s history with this line. 

This is the second ascent after Shawn Raboutou,  and one of the few 9A/V17s in the world right now. The interview is broken down into sections few, which should give everyone something to go away with, whether you’re in the double digits yourself or you’re interested in what process someone goes through to work towards a project at their limit. 

The big areas we discuss:

• The history of Alphane and Aidan’s first season
• How he prepared for this past Switzerland trip
• His thoughts on the line and what he’s up to next
• Q&A session with Lattice audience

Specific topics and questions covered:

• When did he first try the problem
• Who did he try it with and how did they climb/project? 
• How his first trip went and what he learnt
• How he prepared with his coach, Ollie Torr, for his follow trip
• What ‘on the wall’ and ‘off the wall’ training he used
• His thoughts on teaming up with Will Bosi for a ‘Team Trip.’
• How the project sessions broke down, and what approaches they both used
• The send go
• His next projects in Switzerland and ‘Alphane Right Hand’ line
• How he balances repeats vs FAs
• His historic approach to mileage vs projecting. Which does he do more?
• What training has had the biggest impact ‘on rock’ for him
• How much a week he trains
• How long does he rest between burns
• What degree of ‘perfection’ does he look for in a move before making links
• His thoughts on Burden of Dreams, Isles Sit Start & Superpower
• What’s harder than Alphane? Is anything flying under the radar?

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

If you’re new to boulder projecting or even reasonably experienced, then this episode is for you! In today’s recording, we have Tom Randall giving his experience and advice on how to increase the chances of a successful tick this season, via his ‘Top 10’ strategies. 

Each of these approaches can be used in almost any situation and when you find ways to combine many of them on the same day, then you’re really winning! Projecting is about bringing all of your hard-won training improvements to the table and utilising them via the right strategies and tactics to achieve your goals. Like many approaches in climbing, these can be refined and learnt over the years, so get started now to improve your own journey. 

Tom’s Top 10 Strategies:

1. Skin management
2. Ladders, pad stacks and top ropes
3. Learning weird positions and rests
4. Who’s beta is best?
5. Power spotting
6. Replica work at home
7. Warm ups and flexibility
8. Visualisation on dynamic moves
9. Multiple shoe options
10. Not starting at the start… 

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

If you’re new to projecting or reasonably experienced at redpointing, then this episode is for you! In this episode, we have Tom Randall giving his experience and advice on how to increase the chances of a successful tick this season, via his ‘Top 10’ strategies. 

Tom is no stranger to projecting, having had hundreds of successful redpoints over the last two decades including many multi-year projects. The approaches that you hear Tom explain in this podcast are ones which are directed mainly at beginner to intermediate climbers, but may also be missing strategies that some of you advanced climbers out there haven’t considered.

Here’s the lineup of the top 10 strategies discussed:

1. Energy wasting and conservation
2. Clipsticks
3. YouTube and video beta
4. Using tiredness to your advantage
5. Brushing as a method for familiarisation
6. End-of-day recaps
7. Learning your rests
8. Route maps and topos
9. Using early lead attempts for mental improvements
10. Choking and the use of ‘top down’ links

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this episode, we’ve got Adam Fiala and Tom Randall back to finish off what they started in this 2-part storytelling podcast. If you’re looking for the first section of the journey where Adam shares his story about the dream to climb his first 5.14 you can find it here http://mujsuplik.blogspot.com/p/dancing-with-wolves-blog-series.html .
 

The interview is structured in the same manner as part 1, where Tom narrates the blog on behalf of Adam as English isn’t his first language. He then follows up with questions relevant to each stage of Adam’s development and goal to climb his project. 

As a recap of part 1, they covered:

1. Adam’s climbing and training history 
2. Common misconceptions about working with a coach 
3. Details of Performance profiling
4. Lattice’s different approach to training
5. Nutrition behind Adam’s training, and his fears of weight gain
6. 
   

In part 2, they cover:

• The specific details of his training program 
• The unexpected social implications of the program
• Some of his doubts about the program
• His first time on real rock after 16 weeks of training
• The importance of assembling hard “side projects” for confidence
• First time on the “main project”
• The hard truth about training
• His thoughts on gaining weight and how it influenced his performance on the rock

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Tom Randall returns in another 'solo podcast' for part 2 of the Power Endurance series. In this episode, he dives into the aspects of performance and preparation that have the greatest effects on the projecting and redpointing process. We can't really overstate how important these factors are and how much the use of them is the crowning glory on top of all the hard training you've done over the years. Get these sorted and you'll be ticking harder and faster, more consistently! 

Like Part 1 (specificity of technical, physical and psychological factors), this one breaks into three parts:

Tactical

• Dialling the crux
• Dealing with the redpoint crux
• Clips and quickdraws
• Time of day and crag conditions
• Top down tactics

Physical

• Training and projecting at the same time
• Pace training
• Gaining training volume on rests
• Warm up tricks and tips

Psychological

• Visualisation away from the crag
• Controlling allostatic load
• Your 'perfect day' list
• Expectations setting
• Remaining process focused. 

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.