Training Plan Adherence - what does the sports psychology say?! In this solo-podcast session by Tom, he takes you through the 3 areas of behaviour that will massively increase your chances of following through on your plans and reduce the chances that it will feel like a struggle. 

Keeping It Fun! 

• Add in your friends and/or family - rely on them for accountability and support and fun banter!
• Initially, do what you like, not what you struggle with. 
• Add in new skills to your training plan. Learning and the associated quick success feelings will make you feel great. 
• Always begin slow on a training plan initially. Plans are hard to follow anyway, don't make it even harder by putting crazy high training loads into the first mesocycle. 

Check Your Life Realities

• Convenience will help massively. Look at the aspects of time, location and conflicts of scheduling
• Start with a routine and with time it'll become a habit
• Prioritise your training. Do not try to do all of your training with you're tired at the end of the day, even if you're a busy person! 

Tracking

• Keep your data collection simple. Less that 5 metrics is a good place to start. 
• Put your tracking records where you can see them regularly and where you can't possible lose them! 
• Retest if you get strange results. 
• Remember that data is just a feedback. Aim to have as little emotional attachment to your scores whether they are positive or negative. Focus on trends and not individual data points. 

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

George Brill is an anthropologist currently working on his PhD in locomotor performance at Cambridge Uni and has previously worked with the Lattice coaching team sharing his findings from the studies of the tree climbing Batek Tribes of Malaysia and also his passion for free diving.

In today’s podcast, Tom and George explore some of the evolutionary history of tree climbing, what this has taught him about movement and also some of the parallels that free-diving may have with climbing performance. 

You can find more about George and his work at:

Instagram: George Brill
Website: Georgebrill.co.uk

Key concepts and terms covered:

• What is an anthropologist and how does this possibly relate to those of us interested in climbing?
• What is locomotor performance?
• What is the “elastic concept” of the body? 

Interview Topics:

1. The Elastic Concept of locomotor performance.
2. Batek Tribe studies and practicalities.
3. What can we learn from tree-climbers?
4. What are the similarities and difference between tree climbing and rock climbing?
5. What does an ideal tree climber looks like… age, size, weight, areas where they’re strong, flexible etc. 
6. Bergmann’s and Allen’s rules and relationship to climbing. 
7. Do the Batek tribe train for tree climbing? What’s valued most in tree climbing?
8. Risk and the culture surrounding it in the Batek. 
9. Freediving Mind-body connection: visualisation, using the link to our advantage

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Lattice coaches Tom Randall and Maddy Cope sit down to discuss their own experiences and their work with clients on two topics, of which at least one, will resonate with almost all climbers out there.

The first is the fear of falling and the second deals the subject of goal setting. Whilst these may appear somewhat separate at first glance, Maddy and Tom have worked with both during their pro climbing careers and also help their clients improve on both fronts.

Fear of falling

The fear of falling can be particularly challenging for climbers who flip between cycles of training (indoors and on a bouldering wall a lot of the time) and performance on rock as they're very different in terms of the exposure or fall practice/experience that occurs. A trip to Spain mid-winter for performance can be problematic when a climber hasn't been on a rope for potentially a few months! 

• How long does it take to build confidence or reduce fear?
• Can it be "trained" before a trip?
• Are there any quick fixes?

Goal setting

Alongside this form of fear, is also some anxiety and stress that climbers feel around how to create and manage goals. Some goals are small, some are larger and much more extensive in the time they require, but almost all follow a similar process. Maddy and Tom discuss a number of strategies they use themselves and also with their clients and athletes. 

• Exploring "value" in goals.
• Having a strategy in preparing for setbacks towards your goals.
• How your goals match your climbing "way of thinking" or personal attitude towards growth or learning. 
• The concept of "holding lightly" to goals. 

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this latest video and podcast episode, Lattice coach Ella Russel is joined by Dr Emma Ross and Dr Bella Smith from 'The Well HQ' (Instagram - @thewell_hq).

Tune in for some brilliant discussion by Ella, Emma and Bella, as they address common questions about hormonal contraception for the female athlete.

Intro: (0:00)
Types of contraception: (2:40)
Personal experiences: (9:33)
Choosing a contraceptive: (20:27)
Tracking your period: (22:16)
Effect on training adaptation: (25:37)
Outro: (28:03)
Find out more about our Lattice Training Plans here: https://latticetraining.com/plans/

Download the Crimpd App:
App store - https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/crimp...
Google Play - https://play.google.com/store/apps/de...

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this long form conversation Maddy and Joy talk about strength training during pregnancy and postpartum. They cover the changes that occur during pregnancy and how these impact climbing. 

This provides the foundations of understanding how we can get back to training and climbing after being pregnant. Coming from a strength and conditioning background Joy talks about weight training, choosing appropriate movements, and how to progress these. Not everyone is comfortable with doing weights, so some of the exercises discussed in this podcast may benefit from in-person sessions to learn how to do them. 

Joy provides great content in this area on her Instagram (@calliejoyblack) so if you are pregnant, have been pregnant, or are planning to become pregnant in the future check it out!

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this latest podcast episode, we had Tom Randall sit down with Mary Eden: AKA @tradprincess to talk about how she trains, prepares and performs for trad climbing. 

Mary has been working with Lattice and coach Jen Wood for a couple of years and has steadily progressed from her first 5.12 in the summer of 2018 to her first 5.13 in mid 2019. From there, she's gone on to complete multiple 5.13 ascents in various crack styles, including some of the best runs of "offwidth form" that have ever been witnessed in the US scene. 

Mary talks about her process for preparing physically, mentally and technically for her hardest sends - including general preparation for climbing trips/seasons. She also shares her experiences with how much sport climbing and bouldering has improved her trad climbing. 

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

The world's first 9b? Maybe.... maybe not! Or is it just a really hard 9a+?! 

Will Bosi recently made the long-awaited 2nd ascent of Steve McClure's "Mutation" at Raventor which was first put up in 1998 - yes that's before Will was even born! On the back of an incredible run of form from Will - multiple 9a to 9b+ sport routes, and countless V12-V15 boulder sends this year, he's been on the form of his life. Yet despite this, Mutation took some serious effort to complete and pushed Will to really get everything just right. 

Tom Randall sat down with Will to chat through the whole story behind his ascent of Mutation. When he first started trying it, what the process involved and what he really thought about the grade. They dive into the nuances of vertical-style limestone crimping, how some things are just "hard to do" and what lies ahead for Will's next season. 

Don't forget to check out Will's YouTube channel 'William Bosi' for some awesome send footage from his brilliant season so far and more.... www.youtube.com/WilliamBosi

Special thanks to Birds of Birds, Will Bosi, Adidas and Five Ten and photo credits to Band of Birds. 

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

One of our clients - @austinclimbing was kind enough to sit down with us recently and talk us through his personal journey to climb his first V12 - God Is In The Details, Fort Leavenworth. You can hear the full analysis and breakdown of his time with coach @procterjonathan in his interview with @tompaulrandall over on our podcast. If you prefer written formats, there's also a full blog! 

Austin and Tom talk about:

• Training to be project specific
• Using AnCap to for long problems
• How variety of stimulus changes so much
• Making rest intentional 
• Fuelling for projecting on the day
• Controlling anxiety on the project

If you're a Fort Leavenworth fan, also go and check out Austin's youtube channel - he puts up loads of beta on there - especially for those shorter climbers! 

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Does 10k Instagram followers make you pro climber? Are the new generation of pro's training differently? Do you live the everyday life of a pro?

All these things are discussed by Tom and Rhos as they unpack their own habits and the habits they see in other professional climbers. This Ask Lattice follows a topic we have been discussing on our own Instagram and delves into the main differences between pros and beginners. This is not to say any habit is right or wrong and simply changing behaviours does equate to a performance short cut! However we do find these topic fascinating and full of lessons we can takeaway while thinking critically about our own training habits.

Intro: (0:45)
Pro climber vs pro punter: (1:45)
What do we see high end climbers do with finger strength and the fingerboard: (3:45)
Elite level system board vs entry level: (6:45)
Elite level endurance sessions vs entry level: (9:45)
Beginners flexibility vs pros: (13:30)
A beginners training structure vs a pros: (16:55)
Lifestyle of beginner vs pro: (22:55)

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Tom and Rhos sit down to discuss their opinions and experience on some of the modern day ‘hot topics’ in climbing. Is your climbing negatively impacted by too much indoor climbing? How to complete a 'deload week'? Whose opinions should you be listening to? Tom and Rhos have very different backgrounds in climbing and their experiences are quite different, despite both being in the elite climbing category - this episode just goes to show there's more than one way to be a pro. 

Intro: (0:50)
Value of indoor vs outdoor climbing?: (3:20)
Would you prefer to be overachiever or underachiever?: (10:50)
Who’s opinion in climbing actually counts?: (11:55)
What can/should a Deload week look like?: (19:10)
Quality vs quantity: (23:00)

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.