The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

TBP 003: Jamie Emerson on Training, Ethics, and Being The Sheriff


Listen Later

I sat down with Jamie Emerson last summer and had a really interesting chat with him. Jamie is, I think, an important voice in the climbing community. As an accomplished and ambitious climber himself, having sent up to V14, he has his finger on the pulse of the climbing community's players and their ascents.

He has a deep appreciation for not only trying hard and sending hard, but also doing it all in style. I've always thought that Jamie would be the best person for the job of MC-ing big competitions because he knows a lot about everyone, and he truly cares about their accomplishments, failures, and their characters.

As the writer at www.B3Bouldering.com, he not only keeps us all up to date on the most current sends, he also asks the hard questions and calls people out on ethical issues that no one else would dare to. This has earned him his nickname, "The Sheriff", which we discuss in this podcast interview. We talk candidly about a couple of his most controversial moments with other climbers, and whether or not he'd do it all over again if he could.

In a sport where people regularly use shady tactics for cleaning boulders, terrorize the land surrounding those boulders, manufacture holds, trespass on private property, make up their own start holds, and "send" things without anyone witnessing said send (I mean, it didn't happen unless it's on video, right?), somebody needs to be the one to say, "You didn't follow the rules. Hey everyone, what do you think the rules are here so we can tell this person the rules?"

That's Jamie, and I for one appreciate his honest, forthright style, and his willingness to fight for some semblance of order and respect in the sport, even if some think he might take it a little too far sometimes.

In this interview we talk about all that, and also this:
  • His biggest achievements in climbing
  • His biggest failures
  • His climbing aspirations
  • His um.. interesting ascent of Gang Bang
  • How he trains and the differences between the methods of all his different trainers
  • What he eats
  • What he thinks about his body weight as it relates to climbing
  • How he likes being called the sheriff, and where that nickname came from
  • What he wants to do in his professional life
  • Why he loves finding and developing new boulders
  • Why he started writing his blog
  • The surprising ways his climbing has changed as he's gotten older
  • What climbing means to him now compared with 10 years ago
  • And more!
  • Show Links
    • Jamie's blog at www.b3bouldering.com
  • Looking for more training advice? Check out our training programs here.
  • ...more
    View all episodesView all episodes
    Download on the App Store

    The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastBy Neely Quinn

    • 4.5
    • 4.5
    • 4.5
    • 4.5
    • 4.5

    4.5

    366 ratings


    More shows like The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

    View all
    The Dirtbag Diaries by Duct Tape Then Beer

    The Dirtbag Diaries

    2,574 Listeners

    The Enormocast: the climbing podcast by Chris Kalous

    The Enormocast: the climbing podcast

    1,424 Listeners

    Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast by Eric J. Hörst

    Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

    244 Listeners

    The Power Company Climbing Podcast by Plug Tone Audio  |  Power Company Climbing

    The Power Company Climbing Podcast

    425 Listeners

    the Sharp End Podcast by the Sharp End Podcast

    the Sharp End Podcast

    1,036 Listeners

    The RunOut Podcast by Andrew Bisharat & Chris Kalous

    The RunOut Podcast

    343 Listeners

    The Nugget Climbing Podcast by Steven Dimmitt

    The Nugget Climbing Podcast

    512 Listeners

    Uphill Athlete Podcast by Uphill Athlete

    Uphill Athlete Podcast

    175 Listeners

    Lattice Training Podcast by Lattice Training

    Lattice Training Podcast

    39 Listeners

    Climbing Gold by Duct Tape Then Beer

    Climbing Gold

    827 Listeners

    The Average Climber Podcast by Plug Tone Audio | The Average Climber Podcast

    The Average Climber Podcast

    65 Listeners

    The Testpiece Podcast by Testpiece

    The Testpiece Podcast

    66 Listeners

    The Struggle Climbing Show by Ryan Devlin

    The Struggle Climbing Show

    167 Listeners

    The Careless Talk Climbing Podcast by Sam Prior & Aidan Roberts

    The Careless Talk Climbing Podcast

    64 Listeners

    Written in Stone: Climbing History by Plug Tone Audio

    Written in Stone: Climbing History

    94 Listeners