The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

TBP 033 :: Will Anglin on Training Efficiently


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Date: November 4th, 2015

(Get 10% off Armaid by using "climb" at checkout.)

About Will Anglin

 

Will Anglin is a 27 year-old climber and head climbing trainer at Earth Treks in Golden, CO. He minored in Exercise Physiology in college and is a certified personal trainer, and he's studied climbing training quite a bit. He trains people in person and online. One of the reasons I wanted to interview him is that he's not only a well-respected trainer, but also a prolific climber himself, having sent V13 and 5.14.

He has a lot to say about training, and this was a dense conversation (in the best way possible).

What we talked about:
  • The importance of strength training
  • Difference between strength and power
  • His weekly training schedule during 50-60 hour work weeks
  • Whether or not you should train to exhaustion
  • Why he thinks using a weight vest during campusing is "safer" than not
  • Who should be campusing
  • Why he does weighted pull ups and why you should maybe not
  • Things We Mentioned
    • Will's website
  • Tension Climbing (coming soon)
  • Will's article on finger strength training
  • I'm doing nutrition consults one-on-one with people again on a limited basis. If you're interested, email [email protected]
  • Discount on ArmAid

    If you haven't heard of the ArmAid yet, definitely give it a look-see. It's a nutcracker-type self-massage tool for your poor, overused arms, and it actually works.

    We wrote a glowing review about it here.  Use the code "climb" at checkout for a 10% discount!

     
    Training Programs for You
    • Check out the Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
  • Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.
  • If you'd like to place an ad on the podcast, just email us at [email protected].
  • Please Review Us on iTunes!
    • Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
  • Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
  • Photo Credit

    Thanks to Matty Hong for the photo of Jon Cardwell.

    Thanks for listening!

     

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