In this episode, Evan Ingerson, a physical therapist, discusses the challenges of returning to climbing after an injury or break. He emphasizes the importance of measuring and systematizing the return to climbing process, using a total load calculation based on difficulty and volume. Evan also highlights the need to consider wall type and hold grip type in rehab and progression. He introduces the concept of shoulder spheres for shoulder injuries and provides tips on using the gym as a tool and climbing with good influences. Overall, he encourages climbers to focus on drills, technique, and making the most of the return to climbing experience.

Takeaways

• Measure and systematize the return to climbing process using a total load calculation based on difficulty and volume.
• Consider wall type and hold grip type in rehab and progression.
• Use the gym as a tool to modify climbs and focus on drills and technique.
• Climb with good influences and avoid pushing too hard too soon.

Evan Ingerson's Bio

• Evan was born and raised in Portland, Oregon. After receiving his Bachelor's Degree in Exercise Science from Oregon State University he moved to Denver to attend Regis University and explore the Rocky Mountains. Evan graduated with honors with his doctorate in physical therapy from Regis in 2016 and has been doing everything he can to continue to grow his clinical effectiveness ever since. When he's not in the clinic Evan enjoys everything Colorado has to offer such as rock climbing, mountain biking, skiing, and ballroom dancing. Evan is happily taking new clients via telehealth only. Schedule online or contact him directly at [email protected] for inquiries. Please note: Evan is no longer taking Free Consultations

Links and Resources for This Episode:

• 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast
• 🎥 YouTube Session Recording

Social Media and Webpage:

• 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles:

Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools

• Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools: /Brand Partner Discounts

Injury Rehab Coures

• Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches