Inner Fire Climbing Podcast

#8 - Juliet Hammer

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In this episode I chat with Juliet Hammer and her dog Addy. Juliet is a climbing coach and an experienced boulderer and sport climber. She has a degree in biology and she's a certified strength and conditioning specialist. We talked about:

  • Juliet's climbing history
  • Differences between bouldering and sport in terms of preparation, mindset and tactics
  • Being a short climber
  • Board climbing
  • Coaching philosophy and shop talk
  • Personal grades
  • Social media, content creation and voluntary hardship
  • Value capture as both a coach and climber
  • Dangers of focusing on dopamine hits

    • 00:00:00 Intro

    00:02:43 Juliet's sport/bouldering identity & seasonality
    00:16:02 Proper introduction, comp/cordo climbing, coaching indoors vs outdoor clients
    00:25:27 Board climbing & being a short climber
    00:30:31 Strength training
    00:37:27 Coaching philosophy and shop talk
    00:48:07 More short climber tips, self-comparison
    00:54:43 Personal grades and the toxic wasteland of 8a.nu
    01:00:41 Motivations
    01:02:38 Jesse is ignorant about the southeast and complains about summer
    01:05:51 More seasonality / sport & boulder logistics questions
    01:08:08 Hot take 1, is climbing harder always more fun?
    01:12:28 Hot take 2, are sport climbers better climbers?
    01:13:56 Sport climbing vs bouldering popularity and value for progression
    01:16:37 Content strategy and value capture as a content creator and coach
    01:26:33 Dopamine hits, voluntary hardship, video beta and availability bias
    01:42:55 Addy
    01:45:09 Work with Juliet

     

    ...more
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    Inner Fire Climbing PodcastBy Jesse Firestone
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