After Hours Skin Clinic

By Raconteur StudiosMedicine Health & Fitness Arts Fashion & Beauty

After Hours Skin Clinic episodes

October 08You Might Be Damaging Your Nails Permanently: Gel Manicures & UVA Real Talk
Is your monthly gel manicure damaging your skin and triggering hidden face allergies?
From gel manicures causing mysterious eye eczema to the concerning rise of methacrylate allergies and the UK’s brand-new chemical ban on TPO, our nails are undergoing more clinical scrutiny than ever. This week, Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid lift the lid on the hidden risks hiding inside your monthly manicure routine and expose why cutting your cuticles is a recipe for permanent damage.
In this episode, Emma and Ellie unpack the crucial anatomical role of the proximal nail fold (the 'true' cuticle), why DIY gel nail kits are driving a massive surge in contact allergies, and how un-cured acrylates can trigger reactions on your eyelids. Plus, they examine the UVA radiation emitted by gel curing lamps, the clinical rise of periungual warts, and practical steps to protect your hands without ditching your favorite gel polish.
Episode Highlights:
The Anatomy of a Nail: Why everyone confuses the proximal nail fold with the cuticle and why removing it breaks your nail’s waterproof seal.

The UK TPO Chemical Ban: What the new restriction on Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide means for your nails.

The Rise of Acrylate Allergies: How improperly cured home gel kits are causing severe contact dermatitis across the face and eyes.

The Danger of Periungual Warts: How moisture traps and aggressive cuticle removal propagate stubborn viral infections around the nail.

Eczema Awareness Connection: Why mysterious eyelid rashes are increasingly linked to nail polish and cosmetic glues.

UVA Lamps & Skin Damage: Dermatologist-approved strategies (including UV-blocking gloves) to protect your hands during gel treatments.
Key Questions Answered:
Why should you tell your nail technician never to push back or cut your cuticles?

Can using a DIY UV gel nail kit at home cause long-term skin allergies?

How do gel nail chemicals cause allergic reactions around your eyes and face?
Connect with us:
After Hours Skin Clinic Instagram: @afterhoursskinclinic
Dr Ellie Rashid Instagram: @drellierashid
Dr Emma Craythorne Instagram: @dremmacraythorne
TikTok: @afterhoursskinclinic
YouTube: After Hours Skin Clinic Channel

👇 Let us know your thoughts in the comments
💌 Send us your questions [email protected]

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.

CHAPTERS:
00:00 - Introduction: The UK Chemical Ban on TPO & Nail Health
02:26 - Cuticle Anatomy 101: The Protective Waterproof Seal
04:02 - The Real Danger of Cutting Cuticles (Rashes, Infections & Warts)
07:34 - The Rise of Gel Nail Acrylate Allergies & DIY UV Kits
13:13 - Why Gel Nail Allergies Show Up on Your Eyelids
13:50 - Eczema Awareness Month & Contact Dermatitis Triggers
14:00 - UVA Lamps & How Dermatologists Protect Their Hands
17:55 - UK ban on a chemical (TPO) used in nail hardening products
22:01 - Supplements for nail growth & surprising truth about biotin

Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
29 min
October 01DIY Peptide Injections: The Dark Side of Injectable Peptides & Copper Hype
From Jennifer Aniston’s peptide confessions to unregulated online vials sold for £5, teenagers asking for acne fixes, and DIY under-the-skin injections, peptides are e.v.e.r.y.w.h.e.r.e. This week, Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid pull back the curtain on the worrying, unregulated world of injectable "longevity" peptides and separate real pharmaceutical science from social media hype.
In this episode, Emma and Ellie break down what a peptide actually is, why GLP-1 weight-loss medications (like Ozempic and Mounjaro) have created a halo effect for unsafe knock-offs, and why DIY under-the-skin injections carry massive unmonitored risks. Plus, they examine the truth behind copper peptides (GHK-Cu), why that viral blue liquid injection might be a complete waste of money, and the startling results of clinical studies that the beauty industry ignores.
Episode Highlights:
The Jennifer Aniston Effect: How celebrity skincare confessions can fuel an unregulated online frenzy.

What Is a Peptide? Deconstructing the science of amino acid chains, from essential insulin to GLP-1s.

The Unregulated Black Market: Why £5 internet vials labeled "for research purposes only" are a health disaster waiting to happen.

BPC-157 & Small Animal Studies: Why rat tendon research does not translate to human safety or skin rejuvenation.

The Truth About Copper Peptides (GHK-Cu): Debunking the myths around wound healing, acne, wrinkles, and reversing gray hair.

The "No Side Effects Reported" Trap: Why non-drug products lack mandatory reporting systems for adverse events.

Topical vs. Injectable: Why that viral blue copper peptide serum looks pretty on TikTok but lacks solid clinical backing.
Key Questions Answered:
Are injectable peptides bought online safe or effective for skin aging and longevity?

Do topical copper peptides (GHK-Cu) actually cure acne, reduce wrinkles, or stop gray hair?

What is the difference between prescription GLP-1 peptides and unregulated DIY peptide vials?
Want to learn more about peptides? Listen to our episode 'Peptides: What Are They, How Do They Work, and Should You Use Them?' on Apple, Spotify or YouTube.

Connect with us:
After Hours Skin Clinic Instagram: @afterhoursskinclinic
Dr Ellie Rashid Instagram: @drellierashid
Dr Emma Craythorne Instagram: @dremmacraythorne
TikTok: @afterhoursskinclinic
Listen on Spotify: After Hours Skin Clinic
Listen on Apple Podcasts: After Hours Skin Clinic

👇 Let us know your thoughts in the comments
💌 Send us your questions [email protected]

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.

Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
24 min
September 23Pregnancy Skincare: The Safe Ingredients & The Hard No’s According to Experts
Navigating skincare during pregnancy can feel like an overwhelming minefield of misinformation, fearmongering, and conflicting advice. This week on the After Hours Skin Clinic, Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid unpack the latest clinical evidence to bring expectant mothers complete peace of mind.
In this episode, Emma and Ellie run down a definitive A-to-Z list of popular skincare ingredients: from tretinoin, retinol, and hydroquinone to azelaic acid, salicylic acid, and vitamin C. They explain the difference between localised skin application and systemic absorption, break down why you shouldn't panic if you used a retinoid before finding out you were pregnant, and share the exact ingredients dermatologists rely on to manage pregnancy acne, melasma, and rosacea safely.
Episode Highlights:
The Anxiety of Pregnancy Skincare: Why fear-based advice causes unnecessary stress and how science guides safe choices.

Topical vs. Oral Retinoids: Why you should stop prescription tretinoin and why over-the-counter retinol are not advised, but why accidental use of topical retinoids isn't a reason to panic.

The Hard No Ingredient: Why hydroquinone must be strictly avoided during pregnancy due to high systemic absorption into the bloodstream.

Managing Hormonal Acne & Melasma Safely: Why azelaic acid, benzoyl peroxide, and low-dose glycolic acid are dermatologist-approved pregnancy powerhouses.

Navigating Acids & Bakuchiol: Understanding the safety thresholds for salicylic acid (2% limit) and the latest 2026 data on bakuchiol.

Nipple Balms & Newborn Safety: The single evidence-backed ingredient safe for breastfeeding babies (and why it makes the ultimate lip balm).

Key Questions Answered:
What skincare ingredients are strictly unsafe to use during pregnancy?

Is it safe to use salicylic acid, glycolic acid, or azelaic acid while pregnant?

What should I do if I accidentally used a retinoid before realizing I was pregnant?
Products Mentioned:
Klira (Custom prescription skincare formulated by Dr Emma Craythorne)

Lansinoh Lanolin Nipple Cream / Lip Balm

Azelaic Acid (Topical treatment evaluated for pregnancy safety)

Hydroquinone (Prescription agent strictly not advised in pregnancy)

Benzoyl Peroxide (Topical antibacterial ingredient cleared for pregnancy)

Salicylic Acid (up to 2%) & Glycolic Acid

Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid, 10–15% at pH 2.5)

Connect with us:
After Hours Skin Clinic Instagram: @afterhoursskinclinic
Dr Ellie Rashid: @drellierashid
Dr Emma Craythorne: @dremmacraythorne
TikTok: @afterhoursskinclinic
YouTube: After Hours Skin Clinic Channel

👇 Let us know your thoughts in the comments
💌 Send us your questions [email protected]
This is a Raconteur Studios Production.
⁠Klira⁠ - Founded by Dr Emma Craythorne, Klira is a bespoke luxury skincare formula prescribed by dermatologists. You may hear it mentioned from time to time on the podcast and if you want to find out more head over to ⁠klira.skin⁠

Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
13 min
September 17Bone-Smashing to Jaw Fracturing: The Dark World of ‘Looksmaxxing’
From jaw pain caused by "mewing" to extreme internet trends where young men take hammers to their face, the internet’s obsession with "looksmaxxing" is going far beyond a basic skincare routine. This week, Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid investigate the bizarre, dark, and often dangerous underworld of extreme aesthetic manipulation.
In this episode, Emma and Ellie unpack the medical realities behind softmaxxing vs. hardmaxxing, the psychological impact of online body ideals, and why trying to "mew" or "bone-smash" your way to a chiselled jawline is a recipe for permanent damage. Plus, they explore how these online trends exploit vulnerability, the dangerous black-market use of prescription skin-bleaching ingredients like hydroquinone, and why true attraction is so much more than skin deep.
Episode Highlights:
The Medical Reality of 'Mewing': How a 15-year-old’s unexplained jaw pain led Dr Ellie down the internet rabbit hole of DIY facial re-shaping.

Softmaxxing vs. Hardmaxxing: Breaking down the line between healthy self-care and extreme physical alteration.

The Danger of 'Bone Smashing': Why hitting your face with a hammer triggers soft-tissue trauma and swelling rather than structural bone growth.

Facial Nerve Damage & Fracture Risks: The permanent clinical consequences of unmonitored facial trauma.

Black-Market Hydroquinone: The dangerous rise of unsupervised skin bleaching and the risk of irreversible ochronosis.

Beyond 2D Aesthetics: Why online image trends exploit psychological vulnerabilities and distort real-world human connection.
Key Questions Answered:
What is looksmaxxing, and why are young men resorting to dangerous DIY face reshaping?

Is "mewing" or "bone smashing" medically safe or effective for creating a stronger jawline?

What are the clinical dangers of using hydroquinone without a dermatologist's supervision?
👇 Let us know your thoughts in the comments
💌 Send us your questions [email protected]

Connect with us:
After Hours Skin Clinic Instagram: @afterhoursskinclinic

Dr Ellie Rashid: @drellierashid

Dr Emma Craythorne: @dremmacraythorne

TikTok: @afterhoursskinclinic

YouTube: After Hours Skin Clinic Channel
This is a Raconteur Studios Production.

⁠Klira⁠ - Founded by Dr Emma Craythorne, Klira is a bespoke luxury skincare formula prescribed by dermatologists. You may hear it mentioned from time to time on the podcast and if you want to find out more head over to ⁠klira.skin⁠

Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
21 min
September 10What Dermatologists Actually Spend Their Money On (From Luxuries to Cheap Finds)
From high-end night creams to cheap and effective cleansers, what do skin specialists actually buy with their own money? This week, Consultant Dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid pull back the curtain on their personal shopping lists, revealing where they like to splurge and where they save the most when it comes to skin health and the right products or procedures.
In this episode, Emma and Ellie unpack the truth about luxury vs. high-street skincare, why muscle-building exercise changes dermal thickness, and the surprising mental health "glow" that comes from joy, relaxation and movement. Plus, they break down why expensive collagen powders fail to deliver, which in-office laser technologies are actually worth the investment over home gadgets, and their favorite budget-friendly drugstore staples.
Episode Highlights:
The Science of Exercise & Dermal Thickness: How resistance training releases muscle myokines that directly boost skin structure and sleep quality.

Sensory Joy vs. Active Ingredients: The real reason Dr Ellie splurges on her night cream (and how to layer it with prescription actives).

In-Office Lasers vs. At-Home Gadgets: Why dermatologists skip handheld home devices in favor of Alexandrite, Nd:YAG, and CO2 in-clinic treatments.

The Lymphatic Drainage Myth: How targeted massage techniques support fluid flow and overall relaxation.

Dietary Collagen vs. Eating the Rainbow: Why expensive collagen supplements fall short compared to whole-food nutrition.

Dermatologist-Approved Budget Staples: The exact drugstore cleansers, body creams, and anti-dandruff shampoos Emma and Ellie buy on repeat.
Key Questions Answered:
Do expensive night creams work better than drugstore moisturisers, or are you just paying for fragrance?

Are at-home skincare devices and laser gadgets worth your money?

What are the best affordable cleansers and body moisturizers recommended by dermatologists?
Products Mentioned:
Klira (Bespoke prescription skincare formulated by Dr Emma Craythorne)

Niance Night Care Regenerate

Aveeno Skin Relief Moisturizing Cream

La Roche-Posay Lipikar Baume AP+M

Byredo Hair Perfume

Dyson Airwrap & GHD Hairdryer

Ziip (Nano-current facial device)

Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser & Cetaphil Rich Night Cream

CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser

E45 Cream

QV Skincare Range

Head & Shoulders Shampoo (Classic Original & Citrus Fresh)
Find The Times article mentioned in the episode here.

👇 Let us know your thoughts in the comments
💌 Send us your questions [email protected]

Connect with us:
After Hours Skin Clinic Instagram: @afterhoursskinclinic
Dr Ellie Rashid: @drellierashid
Dr Emma Craythorne: @dremmacraythorne
TikTok: @afterhoursskinclinic
YouTube: After Hours Skin Clinic Channel

This is a Raconteur Studios Production. ⁠

Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
16 min
September 03Collagen & Supplements: Everything You Need to Know
Do collagen supplements actually work?
Collagen powders, drinks and supplements promise plumper skin, fewer wrinkles and more collagen, but what does the science actually show?
In this episode of the After Hours Skin Clinic, Consultant Dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid break down what collagen is, why we lose it as we age, and whether taking collagen orally can really improve your skin.
They examine the evidence behind collagen supplements, discuss UV exposure and lifestyle factors that damage collagen, and explain which skincare ingredients and treatments have stronger evidence for supporting collagen.
You'll learn:
Whether collagen supplements are worth the money

What happens to collagen as you age

How UV exposure damages collagen

Whether collagen can reduce wrinkles

Why food and protein may matter more

The evidence behind tretinoin, vitamin C and peptides

How in-clinic treatments can stimulate collagen
👇 Let us know your thoughts in the comments
💌 Send us your questions [email protected]
🤍 Follow us on Instagram
👀 Watch us on ⁠Youtube⁠
🔔 Subscribe for dermatologist-led, evidence-based skincare.

Producer: Ella Blaxill
Series Editor: Eve Streeter
Music: Simon Elms

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.

Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
18 min
August 27Can Exercise Actually Improve Your Skin?
We all know exercise is good for our heart, muscles and mental health, but what does it do for our skin?
In this episode of the After Hours Skin Clinic, Consultant Dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid answer the question: Can exercise actually make your skin healthier?
They explore the surprising connection between exercise and skin health, including how resistance training may increase dermal thickness and collagen, why exercise is linked with less severe psoriasis, and whether sweating really “detoxes” your skin.
They also discuss the potential downsides of exercise for conditions including rosacea, hives and sweat-related rashes, and what you can do if exercise triggers your skin.
In this episode:
Can exercise make your skin thicker?

Exercise, collagen and skin ageing

Why resistance training may benefit your skin

The relationship between exercise and psoriasis

Does sweating actually detox your skin?

Exercise, blood flow and the post-workout glow

Can exercise make rosacea worse?

Exercise-induced hives and sweat rashes

Why movement throughout the day matters

How exercise can support better sleep and healthier skin
🎧 Listen on Apple Podcasts & Spotify.
🔔 Subscribe for dermatologist-led, evidence-based skincare.
Producer: Ella Blaxill
Series Editor: Eve Streeter
Music: Simon Elms
This is a Raconteur Studios Production.

Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
16 min
August 20The Truth About Sunburn: What Actually Helps?
Sunburn isn't just red, sore skin...
Consultant Dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid explain what happens to your skin when UV radiation causes sunburn, why repeated UV exposure increases the risk of skin damage and skin cancer, and what you can actually do if you've been caught out.
You'll learn:
Why some people burn faster than others

What sunburn does to your DNA

Whether there's such a thing as a safe tan

Why sunbeds don't give you a protective "base tan"

How to use the UV Index

What actually helps treat sunburn

Which popular sunburn remedies aren't worth it

Products mentioned:
Avène Thermal Spring Water

Aloe vera gel
Don't forget to follow and subscribe so you don't miss another episode!
You can watch us on YouTube and find us on Instagram too.

Producer: Ella Blaxill
Series Editor: Eve Streeter
Music: Simon Elms

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.

Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
28 min
August 13Want healthier, thicker-looking hair? Start with your scalp.
In this episode of the After Hours Skin Clinic, Consultant Dermatologist Dr Ellie Rashid explains why scalp health is so important for healthy hair, from dandruff and oily scalps to hair growth, shedding and scalp inflammation.
She tackles the biggest hair and scalp myths, including whether dirty hair grows better, whether you can "train" your scalp to produce less oil, and whether rosemary oil really works for hair growth.
In this episode:
What makes a healthy scalp

Dandruff vs a dry scalp

Seborrhoeic dermatitis and Malassezia

How often should you wash your hair?

Can you train your scalp to produce less oil?

Does dirty hair grow faster?

Should you exfoliate your scalp?

Rosemary oil vs minoxidil

Does shampoo affect hair growth?

Why conditioner shouldn't go on your scalp

When scalp inflammation can contribute to hair problems
Products mentioned:
Nizoral 2% Ketoconazole Shampoo

Head & Shoulders

Briogeo Hydrating Shampoo

Pureology Hydrating Shampoo

K18 Detox Shampoo

Minoxidil 5%
🎧 Listen on Apple Podcasts & Spotify.
🔔 Subscribe for dermatologist-led, evidence-based skincare and hair advice.

Producer: Ella Blaxill
Series Editor: Eve Streeter
Music: Simon Elms

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.

Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
31 min
August 06Everything You Need to Know About Psoriasis
Psoriasis affects around 125 million people worldwide but there's still so much misunderstanding around the condition.
In this special Psoriasis Awareness Month episode of the After Hours Skin Clinic podcast, Consultant Dermatologist Dr Ellie Rashid explains what psoriasis is, what causes it, and the treatment options available today.
Alongside a personal story (special thanks to Alys for sharing her experience), Ellie discusses common triggers, the different types of psoriasis, whether diet plays a role, and how treatments such as phototherapy, topical therapies and biologics can help manage the condition.
You'll learn:
What causes psoriasis

Common triggers and flare-ups

How psoriasis is treated

Why phototherapy works differently for everyone

The latest biologic treatments

The emotional impact of living with psoriasis

When to speak to your GP or dermatologist
If you've recently been diagnosed or have lived with psoriasis for years, or know someone who needs help or reassurance, this episode is packed with practical, evidence-based advice from a consultant dermatologist.
Producer: Ella Blaxill
Series Editor: Eve Streeter
Music: Simon Elms
This is a Raconteur Studios Production.

Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
24 min

About After Hours Skin Clinic

From the publisher's feed

After Hours Skin Clinic is the expert-led skincare podcast hosted by consultant dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid. It’s laid-back and information-packed, covering everything you’ve ever wanted to know about your skin and how to look after it.