This Is TASTE

Christina Tosi is a chef, TV personality, Milk Bar CEO and CCCO (Chief Compost Cookie Officer), and the author of a new cookbook, All About Cake. And indeed, during this lively episode taped live in front of a packed house at our offices at Penguin Random House, we talk about cake. Like, we get her hot take on what is up with the addictive boxed yellow cake flavor? Which great American classic cake would she eff, marry, and kill? We also find out if the kids of MasterChef Junior really make all that food. Plus, we get some memories from the Tosi childhood: Otis Spunkmeyer, Orange Julius, and bowl cuts at the mall. It's all in here.

Also on the show I get to ask my buddy chef Daniel Holzman a burning question for our column 100 Questions For My Friend the Chef. It involves what he calls the “fertile crescent of pizza”—which may or may not be in Italy.

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Mike Solomonov planted his flag in Philadelphia more than a decade ago with the groundbreaking Israeli-American restaurant Zahav, and people went nuts. Two words: pomegranate lamb. He’s since won many awards, opened restaurants focusing on Israeli staples hummus and falafel, and essentially put Israeli cuisine in the American zeitgeist, sitting right next to Italian and Mexican. He’s the author of several books, including the new Israeli Soul: Easy, Essential, Delicious.

In this fun and wide-ranging conversation, we talk about Israel’s major food groups—falafel, pita, sabich, and schnitzel—and dive into the history of the often-overlooked Ashkenazi food traditions in Israel. We swap stories about some of our favorite Tel Aviv and Jerusalem restaurants, and Mike shares the details of his five-minute hummus recipe—which is accurately called a “medium step forward for mankind.” And his dad used to own Subway restaurants! This is a cool fact. We discuss how this may have just informed the way he looks at his growing falafel and tahini-shake empire, Goldie. Are falafels the next Cold Cut Combo?

Also on the show, Anna catches up with Dana Frank and Andrea Slonecker, authors of Wine Food: New Adventures in Drinking and Cooking. The pair offer some really unique takes on the merging of wine and food cultures in our modern world—as well as why pairing wine with chocolate is just a terrible idea. Plus, is rosé over?

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Daniela Soto-Innes is the chef-partner at two New York baby institutions, Cosme and Atla. These young and progressive restaurants—a modern Mexican cantina featuring supremely delicious tortillas and corn meringue firmly supplanted in my dessert hall of fame, and a Mexican/Latin all-day café—are reshaping the way the city thinks about “Mexican food” writ large.

Soto-Innes, winner of the prestigious James Beard Foundation Rising Star Chef of the Year award in 2016, was born in Mexico City and raised in Houston, where she worked in kitchens before linking up with Enrique Olvera, and later partnering on the NYC restaurants. It’s a colorful conversation. I ask her about the ashwagandha root popping up on her IG feed. About her Mexican roots, and the regionality of Mexican cuisine—the vanilla of Veracruz and the wines of Ensenada—and the high percentage of women who make up her kitchen workforce. “It’s just the way it worked out; we hire nice people,” she says of her staff.

Also on the show is Michael Harlan Turkell. He’s a photographer, radio show host, and author of a ridiculously cool book about vinegar, Acid Trip. We talk about his travels to Italy and Japan and why the inky bottle of “balsamic” you last put on your salad at Whole Foods is sorta not really what you thought it was.

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Deuki Hong is a San Francisco–based chef and restaurant-empire-builder in the making. He’s also the coauthor of Koreatown: A Cookbook. Here he catches up with his longtime collaborator for a wide-ranging conversation. They hadn’t seen each other in a minute! They discuss the exciting state of Korean cooking in America—and how it’s evolved significantly since the book’s release in early 2016. They also discuss Deuki’s first trip back to Korea since he was born. He covered the Olympics for the Today show, and, as he tells Matt, “It broke everything for me, in a good way. I realized I know nothing about Korean food.” Untrue, but the trip was an amazing revelation for the young chef.

Also on the program is Jordana Rothman, restaurant editor of Food and Wine. She and Matt go back a long way, and they discuss the shifts in covering restaurants in the food media world over the past decade. She also discusses the exciting things happening in the restaurant world in lesser-covered cities like Detroit and St. Louis, as well as her strong Instagram game. Hashtag: #BaroqueBreakfast.

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Natasha Pickowicz is the super talented pastry chef at New York City restaurants Flora Bar and Café Altro Paradiso, where fans (and oh, does she have fans) have been impressed with her ambitious cooking. Her dessert style? Italian-ish and simple-ish and generally not overpoweringly sweet. But before she was running the show in NYC kitchens, she worked as a journalist, writing about food and music mostly, in Montreal. She served as a Canadian pizza correspondent for Serious Eats and has a unique take on the relationship between professional chefs and the media. Here she talks about a crazy tryout she once had for a job and what she actually makes for dinner at home once her long day is over (she cooks at home regularly, slightly atypical for a professional).

Also on the program, EyeSwoon creator Athena Calderone and Food52’s Kristen Miglore talk about their recent books, Cook Beautiful and Genius Desserts.

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Is there an introduction needed here? Over her groundbreaking career, Ruth Reichl has served as the food editor of the Los Angeles Times, the restaurant critic of the New York Times, and the editor in chief of the legendary magazine Gourmet. She’s written juicy memoirs, mentored a generation of writers and editors, and still writes with regularity, curiosity, and a love for real journalism. She also whispers in beautiful character-count limits on Twitter if you haven’t checked that out.

So what did we talk about? Reichl discusses editing the The Best American Food Writing 2018, grades the current New York Timesrestaurant critics, reflects on her time at the Los Angeles Times, when she would publish 60 pages a week and oversaw 20 full-time employees (food-media glory days!), discusses the terrible economic reality facing restaurants, and remembers her first cookbook, published in 1972. She also might surprise some with her take on journalism in the #MeToo era. Also on this episode, Smitten Kitchen’s Deb Perelman answers the question: What’s an unpopular food that is due for a comeback?

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Brooks Headley does not take vacations, read Yelp reviews, or make his burgers with beef. The chef-owner of New York City’s Superiority Burger and author of the new Superiority Burger Cookbook joined us for the latest episode to talk about vegetarian cooking, from fake meats to savory zucchini sludges that are cooked for hours. We talked about the advantages and disadvantages of cooking at a restaurant small enough to see the facial expressions of diners reacting to the food, and the inevitable occasional shock when an unsuspecting carnivore bites into a burger and finds there’s no meat inside.

Also in this episode, we talked vegan cooking with Chloe Coscarelli, the author of Chloe Flavor.

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The Netflix culinary travel series Somebody Feed Phil proves that food television can be both accessible and interesting. Populist and high-brow. Much of the show’s success is credited to its host, the delightful human being Phil Rosenthal. The creator and showrunner of sitcom Everybody Loves Raymond, Rosenthal made a few bucks on the series and could have basically retired and traveled the world. Instead, the 58-year-old brings a camera along on travels around the world (along with his scene-stealing brother Richard) to destinations like Lisbon, Mexico City, and Tel Aviv. All pretension is left at baggage claim, which is why we love this show so much. Rosenthal joins us for this episode to talk about the booming Los Angeles restaurant scene, the best craft service in Hollywood, and where he’s traveling next season.

Also in this episode, Games of Thrones author George R. R. Martin joins us to talk about the pizza scene in New York City. Dude has some opinions!

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For six years, Angela Dimayuga served as the creative nerve center of New York City’s Mission Chinese Food, rising to executive chef and winning fans with her inventive culinary takes (shiso and umeboshi butter fried rice is in the fried rice hall of fame) and contagious free spirit. But in late 2017 she walked away from Mission to branch out on her own. She participated in a series of fundraising pop-ups, including an ACLU benefit at Art Basel in Miami, where she linked up with the guy running hotel and hospitality group Standard International. Now, nearly a year later, she’s been named the group’s creative director of food and culture and is determined to shake shit up. We find out about her big ideas (Asian bears in space!) in this colorful interview.

Also in this episode, Deb Perelman of Smitten Kitchen answers a reader question: What is your favorite non-photogenic food?

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For years, Peter Meehan was a mystery. As the New York Times’s "$25 and Under" columnist in the early 2000’s, he dined anonymously everywhere from Roberta’s to Momofuku Noodle Bar to hidden gems like Uminoie in the East Village. As an author of cookbooks and while helping run the show at Lucky Peach magazine (RIP), he avoided cameras out of some combination of annoyance and muscle memory. We caught up with him to discuss his upcoming barbecue cookbook, the terror of doing food TV, and the legacy (and life after) Lucky Peach.

Later on the episode, we talked to Julia Sherman, the author of Salad for President, about the unexpected intersections between art and salad.

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