The Testpiece Podcast

#83 Sean Bailey — Devilution FA [~V16], Japan’s Gym Scene, The Future of Hard Sport Climbing, Spearheading USA’s Return to WC’s, Projecting in Bouldering vs Sport, and BTS of Making It As a Pro

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Sean Bailey came on Testpiece and shared his decades of experience from sending and competing at the absolute top of the sport. Sean truly is one of the best climbers in the world right now. 

  • Sean recently FA’d the low start to Evilution [“Devilution”] which was a long standing sought after project that clocks in around V16 and is now one of the hardest, proudest lines in the world!
  • How he started climbing and training at a young age and what it was like cutting his teeth on his local crags like Smith Rock.
  • He shares about what WC’s were like as an American 7+ years ago when the USA was not competitive at all. Spoiler — it was different and not so glamours! 
  • His recent time spent on hard outdoor bouldering and the lessons he learned in sport climbing that help in bouldering.
  • What he thinks the progression in sport climbing will look like.
  • Sean also expands on his recent Instagram post that shared on the struggles pro-climbers have behind the scenes making ends meet. Don’t miss this part.

Absolutely incredible can’t miss podcast by one of the top climbers in our sport!


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The Testpiece PodcastBy Testpiece
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