Andy Leung is the head setter of Climb Time Cincinnati - a community that is near and dear to my heart. In this episode we discuss not only the career of routesetting, but also what it means to both the setter and the community, how it can help us all grow, and what to keep in mind in order to keep moving forward. 
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Learn more about Climb Time.
You can find the Breaking Beta Podcast on Spotify and on Apple Podcasts.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
 
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Andy Leung | Routesetting as Both Creative Outlet and Career

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Self-Improvement

You’re scrolling Instagram or YouTube or listening to the newest podcast episodes, and now, just today, you’ve got three new finger strength protocols to try, you learned that your footwork needs overhauling, you’re warming up all wrong, and you have to buy a few new training devices.
And you have to implement it all right now, because, well, you just do. It doesn’t matter that you have no idea if anything has worked – or will work – because the next thing could be THE thing, and you’ve been plateaued and need to level up right now.
The good news is that you don’t have to stop consuming all of the information and trying new things and learning as much as possible.
You can keep at it. Collect it all.
But...
 
Read the rest on the blog!
Watch the video on YouTube!
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TAPED TIPS | 5 Simple Ways to Climb Harder

Be the first to learn about about the new Movement Assessment Tool & Mini-Course!
 
In this special Q & A episode, Kris fields questions from YOU! Sent in from our Patrons, Kris digs into what you want to know when it comes to climbing movement.
This is Part 1 of 2 episodes so be sure to stay tuned for Part 2, coming soon!
Thanks to Patrons Cody Ratterman, Matt, Martin Bertram, Lydia Benitez, and Yoav Pinto for the great questions!
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FOCUS Q&A 1: Climbing Movement Principles, Skill vs. Strength, and How to Evaluate

Short climbers are good at getting scrunchy, and tall climbers are good at climbing extended, right?
Ummm, no. Not always.Actually, not even most of the time.
Believing that, particularly if you’re one of those short or tall climbers, is a trap. I’m going to tell you why, and I’m going to tell you exactly how to make sure you don’t fall into this trap. Or if you’re in it already, how to get out, so that we can all extend our useful range...
Read the rest on the blog!
Watch the video on YouTube!
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TAPED TIPS | How To Climb Taller AND Smaller

Today we rewind to an episode of Breaking Beta where Kris and Paul dig into a paper that presents and then tests a method for measuring movement skills in climbing:
Climbing performance analysis: A novel tool for the assessment of rock climber's movement performanceAuthored by Nicola Taylor, Dave Giles, Michaela Panáčková, James Mitchell, Joel B. Chidley, and Nick Draper; published in the International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance in January, 2020.
They’ll attempt to determine whether or not movement skills in climbing can even be measured reliably, and if the proposed system translates to anything useful for everyday climbers and coaches trying to assess movement.
 
This episode originally aired on July 27, 2022.
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REWIND | Can We Accurately Measure the Movement Skills of Sport Climbers?

Ben Mayforth is a decorated climber well known for dialing in his training regimen. He's a Paraclimbing World Cup multi-medalist. Since 2019, he hasn't missed a silver medal at the Paraclimbing World Championships. Ben has a reputation of being extremely disciplined, but he’s recently loosened some of his self-imposed rules, and we discuss the impacts from that “letting go” in this episode.
Every Body Climbs (EBC) is a collaborative podcast, presented across Plug Tone Audio platforms, bringing you interviews with para and adaptive climbers. These profiles can be heard on The Power Company Podcast and Sends and Suffers. Content about festivals, engagement projects and other modes of community building air on Sends and Suffers, while training and nutrition focused interviews can be heard on The Power Company Podcast. Host, Emily Chen-Newton is a freelance adaptive sports reporter working in both print and broadcast. Living with a chronic medical condition herself, her journalism centers athletes, not their disabilities. When she’s not reporting, she’s rock climbing with her husband and their two cats.
 
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Theme music sample attribution: Creeper_Ciller78
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Andy Leung | Routesetting as Both Creative Outlet and Career

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