September 07, 2023

Dr. Tyler Nelson on Finger Strength

1 hour 27 minutes

Dr. Tyler Nelson dives deep into all things finger strength training

Tyler is bringing cutting edge science to the world of training for climbing and, in the process, he is blowing up myths of training that we’ve long thought to be true and helping climbers, from pros to everyday climbers, identify exactly what types of training will take their climbing performance to new heights. In graduate school Tyler completed a dual doctorate/masters degree in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading and rehabilitation. He is also a certified strength and conditioning specialist through the NSCA and teaches conferences worldwide on a host of topics. Get ready to get strong!

Topics:

The difference between strength training protocols and hypertrophy protocols, and why many climbers are getting it wrong

How to balance off the wall finger strength training with on the wall climbing

Exploring the various methodologies of finger strength training

Why using a fingerboard doesn’t make sense for training strength in experienced climbers

Why most climbers are doing too many hang board reps that are too long for building strength

Proper set/rep schemes for building strength

Whether a no hang protocol like Emil’s viral routine is actually beneficial

Minimal edge training vs just climbing

The significant benefit of training fingers on an un-level edge

How to switch things up to build muscular endurance

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By Ryan Devlin

4.7

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