The Testpiece Podcast

By TestpieceSports

The Testpiece Podcast episodes

June 10, 2024#102 The Tension Crew — Ultimate Board Climbing Deep Dive, History of Boards, Best Board Practices, Training on Boards, The Future of Boards, and Undeniable Vibes
We love board climbing. And if you do too, or even if you are just board curious, this episode it for you. The history of boards, board training, board ethics, board best practices, the future of boards. BOARDS!!
This was a special in person recording in Colorado with part of the Tension Climbing crew (Will Anglin, Michael Rosato, and Quinn Spadafora). This episode was recorded the day after Josh and Tim did a YouTube video with Tension, “Comparing the Boards: Testpiece Comes to Tension”. You need to watch that video ASAP!!
Tension and Testpiece also collaborated on a special giveaway. You can win a Testpiece T-Shirt and a Tension training tool of your choice by winning. BONUS — the Tension training tool will have the Testpiece logo on it as well!
All you have to do is climb an amazing climbs on the TB2 and post them to Instagram, tagging @tensionclimbing and @testpiececlimbing.
The climbs are:
“Testpiece Mirror” @ 45 (both mirrored versions), on the mirrored layout of the 12x12 wall.
“Testpiece Spray” @ 45 on the spray wall layout of the 12x12 wall.
Or ANY of your favorite Classics on and TB2 layout. You must post in your comments why it’s your favorite to enter the raffle.
Uncut footy only 😇

SHOW NOTES:
Tension and Testpiece YouTube Video
Undeniable Vibes
Tension Shoe Spray
EGODEATH Video
Tension Board 2
Mimic holds
Bubble Wrap Project at CATS
Josh’s Board Account (@thebarnboard)

Join Patreon: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
2 hr 27 min
June 03, 2024 #101 Dave Burleson — How To Be A Pro Climber, What Pro’s Actually Earn, The Tension Between Passion And Professionalism, and Contract Negotiation 101
Dave Burleson is one of the top agents for professional climbers. He's part of Reppa Athlete Managment that represents athletes like Sean Bailey, Nathaniel Coleman, Nina Williams, Jesse Grupper… the list goes on, but all of them have been on the podcast so we put them here first!
Before being an agent, Dave worked at the iconic brands Petzl and The North Face as an athlete coordinator / manager. So that means Dave has been on both sides of the table, representing brands who sponsor athletes and now representing the athletes themselves.
Dave shares with us the REAL side of what it takes to be a pro, what pro’s actually earn, and the tips on how to become a professional climber.
He has also been involved in producing famous films like Alphane, Defying Gravity, and Tropical Lines. He’s been involved with too many to list, so we just picked some recent ones! If it has to do with TNF and Mellow, it’s a good guess that Dave had a hand in it.

Join Patreon: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
2 hr 32 min
May 27, 2024 #100 T&J — The Simple Path To Being Great, The Real Role Of Strength, Dealing With Tweaky Moves, Moonboard 2024, Amazing Media Drops, and Skin Farming
Episode #100!!!! Thank you all for the support. What a journey it’s been. This episode was an absolute banger that encapsulates a lot of the Testpiece message.

Tim and Josh break down the ‘Simple’ path that the best climbers follow to being great. And then they detail the appropriate role that strength plays in this path.

They also go over the latest news and cover the amazing media that has been dropping as well as a quick review of the Moonboard 2024 set by Tim.

SHOW NOTES:
Janja on Bügeleisen sit (8C/V15)
Retro Modern with Tim Kang
Tropical Lines
Patreon for Classrooms
Steve Radar Moonboard Account

Join Patreon: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
2 hr 4 min
May 20, 2024#99 Nina Williams — Off Route While Free Soloing, The Ultimate Confidence, Being a Professional on Instagram, and The Medium Is The Message
Nina Williams pushes the limits in every discipline of climbing there is… comps, bouldering, highball bouldering, big wall, sport climbing, and even free soloing.
In this episode she takes us through a harrowing experience she had while free soloing the Casual Route of the Diamond, a multi pitch 5.10. Nina ended up off route during the climb and thus onsight free soloing, 800 feet off the deck.
Nina also shares what has propelled her to explore and master the different disciplines in climbing and what it means to be a long time professional in the climbing world.
SHOW NOTES:
Nina Williams Instagram
Bad Kitty Podcast
Too Big To Flail, V10
Splash of Red, V10
Ray of Light, V13

Join Patreon: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
1 hr 50 min
May 13, 2024#98 T&J — Your Heroes Are Human, 2 Traits The BEST Climbers Have, Honnold Says The Quiet Thing Out Loud, and Tim Tells Josh His Biggest Mistake
Tim Kang was just in SLC for the World Cup and NACS. He got to watch and session with some of the best climbers in the world. Hear from Tim what his major takeaways were that can help you too.

SHOW NOTES:
Honnold’s Comments About Competitions and $
Petzl Roc Trip
James-Caro Wedding Present

Join Patreon: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
1 hr 57 min
May 06, 2024#97 Davin Bagdonas — Alpine Fusion, Grizzly Bears, Developing 1000’s of Climbs World Wide, Chasing The Dragon, and The Call To Adventure
Davin Bagdonas has developed 1000’s of climbs all over the world. Elite climbers, fellow adventurers, and previous podcast guests, like Jimmy Webb, Jamie Emerson, Roman Yalowitz, Eric Jerome call up Davin when they want to go on a wild adventure to try to find the best boulders in the world.

Davin takes us on a trip around the world to places fraught with danger, and explains this up and comping lens on climbing termed “Alpine Fusion”. This is where you go deep into the backcountry to search and climb boulders.

SHOW NOTES:
Multiverse FA by Jimmy Webb
The Winds Backcountry Bouldering (The Revenant, V15)
Iconic Photo of The Revenant by Nathaniel Davison

Join Patreon: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
2 hr 13 min
April 29, 2024#96 T&J — Battling Mid-Send Doubts, Incredibly Hard Sends, New Shoe Tech, Update Your System By Shutting Up, Don’t Talk Sh!t, and Josh Talk’s Sh!t
You’re midway through a redpoint burn and you’re tired. There’s a bunch of moves to go and you tell yourself that you’re so tired right now there’s no way you’ll ever send.

But the truth is, you have no idea how far you will get or if the send is actually right there for the taking. You can’t trust your feelings!

Tim and Josh tackle the problem of doubt creep and how to find actual success during your attempts.

SHOW NOTES:
Testpiece Patreon
Ryuchi Almost Sending
Bon Voyage with James Pearson and Adam Ondra
Michaela Kiersch
Hueco
Era Vella
Tick List
Aidan Robert’s On New V17’s?
No Edge Shoes

Join Patreon: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
1 hr 59 min
April 22, 2024#95 Palmer Larsen — The Master Coach, Adaptability and Autonomy, Deliberate Practice, Style Then Process, What’s Wrong In Coaching Today, and Olympic 2024 Predictions
Palmer Larsen is one of the top coaches in the country. This podcast has soooooooooo many helpful tips and frameworks to get you to the next level. DO NOT MISS his description of how to foster an environment for long term success via deliberate practice @ ~1:28!
He is the head coach of Momentum Climbing Team, in SLC, one of the top climbing teams in the country. He oversees 80 kids every week AND the coaches!

Palmer is also an extremely accomplished athlete. He has been competing at a high-level for over a decade including internationally at World Cups. He’s climbed 14d and sent his first V15 a few days before we recorded this podcast!

SHOW NOTES:
Momentum Climbing Team

Join Patreon: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
2 hr 12 min
April 15, 2024#94 T&J — How To Approach EVERY Climb, New Era Of Climbing Media, Double Clutching Outside, New Patreon Offering, Warm-Up Projects, Un-Campusing and Why Trying Hard Isn’t Enough
What is the best way to approach a climb?

It’s a simple question that may be one of the most important things to ask yourself before you pull on each time, but it’s never talked about. Tim Kang, professional climber and coach, shares the fundamental strategy needed to get your best performance each time.

Announcement!!
$5 Patron’s now have access to all Classroom recordings via Spotify, or through the Patreon app! That’s 20+ hours of NEW content solving the climbing problems we all have! Go to Patreon and sign up now!

SHOW NOTES:
Devilution by Shawn Raboutou
Elias Sending Burden of Dream (v17)
Dana White on Lex Fridman

Join Patreon: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
1 hr 53 min
April 08, 2024#93 Allison Vest — THE STRONGEST FINGERS IN THE WORLD, Hangboarding Deep Dive, Comps Vs Outdoors, LeBron James’ Tip to Send V14, Not Lying to Yourself, Creating FLOAT and Her Secret Training PDF (only $9.99)
Allison Vest has THE STRONGEST FINGERS IN THE WORLD (according to the internet), and she is finally releasing her secret training plan to us! It’s only $9.99, and the best part is Testpiece listeners get 20% off for a limited time! Get it here NOW! 🥸
Allison shares about what it’s like to climb with the extremely strong fingers and why that’s important to climb hard but not everything. Then we go deep into hangboarding. Seriously Deep.

Allison also tells us about the transition from Competition to Outdoor climbing, the different joys they bring and the mental approaches she has learned to help her succeed at both. Don’t miss the LeBron James tip that helped her send her latest V14!

She also talks about creating FLOAT, a YouTube channel that emphasizes women’s accomplishments in climbing.

SHOW NOTES:
Allison’s Secret Hangboarding Protocol (only $9.99)
Hanging the Beastmaker Edge + 100lbs
Campusing on the 4mm’s
Solving a Rubik’s Cube while hanging
Jerry Moffat’s book Mastermind
Keenan Takahashi Testpiece Podcast
FLOAT Trailer
Circle Up Podcast (with Allison and Kyra Condie)

Join Patreon: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
2 hr 9 min