The Testpiece Podcast

By TestpieceSports

The Testpiece Podcast episodes

April 01, 2024#92 T&J — Climbing At Your Limit, Make It Right USAC, Rants Continue, Gym Field Trips, and The Simplest Effective Training Routine
Tim Kang and Josh Horsley explore how often to have limit sessions. What limit sessions really mean. And what non-limit sessions look like.

They also cover the latest news, give important PSAs, Pro-Tips, and of course there is a rant. There’s always at least one rant.

SHOW NOTES:
GoFundme for Adriene
Felipe Hoo
Beastmaking Book

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1 hr 49 min
March 25, 2024 #91 Jimmy Webb — Adventure and Development, How Climbers Go From Good To Great, Southern Style, World’s Greatest Flasher, The New Generation, and The Hardest Moves In The World
That's right ladies and gentlemen -- Jimmy Webb!

Jimmy is one of the best climbers our sport has ever scene, and one of the humblest and kindest climbers as well.

Please enjoy this wide ranging but always fantastic chat with Jimmy Webb.

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2 hr 24 min
March 18, 2024#90 T&J — “Strength Forgets”, The Process SA, Team Trials Trouble, Binding Your Feet, Moonboard Rant, and Get Injured To Get Better Technique?!
The topics are in the title!
A big focus on what Tim is “re-learning” as he comes back from his serious knee injury.

SHOW NOTES:
Team Trials Instagram Post by Ryan
Paul Robinson on Hueco Rock Rodeo
Nathaniel Flashing Scarface

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1 hr 41 min
March 11, 2024#89 Martin Keller — 8C+ at 45+, How To Gain Limit Strength, How To Project, Naysayers, Avoiding Injury, and The Big Difference Between Indoors and Outdoors
Martin Keller is one of the few people to boulder 8C+ / V16... But what's really incredible is he just did it right before he turned 46 years old!

Martin is an incredible climber, coach, and teacher. In this episode he shares:
How to gain limit strength, rather than just getting tired.
The best way to project climbs (he's famous for his decade plus projecting ability).
How he's said "No" to naysayers his whole life and proved them wrong.
The way to avoid, and deal with, injury.
What the big differences are between training indoors and outdoors and what to learn from it.
This one was special because it took away Josh's excuse on why his best days of climbing are behind him!
SHOW NOTES:
Ninja Skills Sit FA (8C+ / V16)

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2 hr 31 min
March 04, 2024#88 T&J — Busting Plateau’s, How To Reclaim A Peak, Get Your Own Felipe [Hoo], ROTSW Still V17, and Sending The MoonBoard Proj
Tim’s back at it and with a big smile. Hear how he’s been returning to his peak strength after injury. Tim also talks about how he coaches clients through plateaus.
Big shout outs to the crews that make life special for Tim and Josh and what they did to help them be their best.

Bosi repeats ROTSW, and just about every other hard thing in the world.

And Josh reports back on the project Tim coached him through in the last episode.

SHOW NOTES:
Felipe Hoo’s Famous 360 Kilterboard Send
Daniel Woods on ROTSW
Will Bosi does ROTSW

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1 hr 45 min
February 26, 2024#87 Matty Hong — Big Falls & Big Fish [9a 50m DWS], Photography 101, What Makes Sharma Special and Lessons From Biographie [World’s First 9a+]
Matty Hong takes us to Mallorca where he snagged the second ascent of Big Fish. A 9a deep water solo that culminates in a dyno at ~20m / 60ft!

Matty was out there filming for the latest Reel Rock climbing with the legend Chris Sharma. Since he is often the guy behind the camera we asked him to share some tips for any aspiring climbing film makers and he fully delievered!

Last, but certainly not least, he takes us to Ceuse to tell us about the interesting things he learned from climbing the iconic Biographie -- the worlds first 5.15a.

SHOW NOTES:
Matty Hong Website
Matty Hong on Instagram
Matty Hong on TikTok
Big Fish (video of Sharma on the crux)
Reel Rock 18 Trailer
Biographie 15a Send
King Lines
Trailer
Sharma on Los Humildes Pa Casa
Ethan Pringle on La Hostia by Boone Speed
Jim Thornburg Instagram

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1 hr 53 min
February 19, 2024#86 T&J — PED’s, Breaking Down A Crux, Climbing Like A 6 Year-Old Girl, Injury Prevention, and BTS On A Moonboard Session
Drugs, cruxes, moonboarding, injuries, making climbs your b*tch... This one's got it all!

Tune in for tons of pro-tips that will help you climb better today, and set yourself up for the long term success that we all are striving for.

SHOW NOTES:
2017 V8 / 7B+ on Moonboard 2016 Set
Podcast #33 with Andy Tollefson

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1 hr 47 min
February 12, 2024#85 Keenan Takahashi — Higher Harder Better, ANTIGRAV, The Best Lines In The World, Mentorship, Manifesting More, and The Mustache Turns 10
The man, the myth, the Mustache — Keenan Takahashi!
Keenan shares his unique approach to climbing. He seeks out the best lines in the world and then uses that as fuel to transform his body and mind so that he is able to climb them.

Keenan also has created one of the coolest new brands in climbing, ANTIGRAV, that embodies his psyche and ethos for climbing.

SHOW NOTES:
ANTIGRAV
Creative Visualization [Book]
A Little Life [Movie]
Express Yourself [Song]
Physics Hyperbole [Squamish Climb]
Keenan
Josh

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2 hr 14 min
February 05, 2024 #84 T&J — Hard Hard, New New, Sessioning With The BEST, USAC Controversy, and Switching To Moonboard 2024
2024 is off the a bang with incredibly hard bouldering FA’s happening non-stop.
Is this because USAC caused one of the strongest crews in the world to stop training for the Olympics and start crushing rock again?

Hear more from Tim about what a session is like when multiple V16 climbers get together to try the hardest boulders in the world.

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2 hr 3 min
January 29, 2024#83 Sean Bailey — Devilution FA [~V16], Japan’s Gym Scene, The Future of Hard Sport Climbing, Spearheading USA’s Return to WC’s, Projecting in Bouldering vs Sport, and BTS of Making It As a Pro
Sean Bailey came on Testpiece and shared his decades of experience from sending and competing at the absolute top of the sport. Sean truly is one of the best climbers in the world right now.
Sean recently FA’d the low start to Evilution [“Devilution”] which was a long standing sought after project that clocks in around V16 and is now one of the hardest, proudest lines in the world!
How he started climbing and training at a young age and what it was like cutting his teeth on his local crags like Smith Rock.
He shares about what WC’s were like as an American 7+ years ago when the USA was not competitive at all. Spoiler — it was different and not so glamours!
His recent time spent on hard outdoor bouldering and the lessons he learned in sport climbing that help in bouldering.
What he thinks the progression in sport climbing will look like.
Sean also expands on his recent Instagram post that shared on the struggles pro-climbers have behind the scenes making ends meet. Don’t miss this part.
Absolutely incredible can’t miss podcast by one of the top climbers in our sport!

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1 hr 52 min