The Testpiece Podcast

By TestpieceSports

The Testpiece Podcast episodes

November 13, 2023#72: T&J — Smoking Sharma's Joint, Outdoor Season Prep, Pro Problems, Small Holds Small Feet, Skin Smarts, Rituals and Music To Get You Psyched
How much would you pay to smoke a joint with Chris Sharma? What about have Daniel Woods be your sommelier for the night?
Tim and Josh start off by talking about Sean Bailey’s viral post about his struggles making it as a Pro Climber.

For the ‘Topic of the Day’, Tim and Josh share tips and tricks on how to shift into Outdoor climbing mode after a long hot summer spent in the gym.

SHOW NOTES:
Sean Bailey’s Instagram Post
Dave Graham’s (The Wizard) new V16
Music Mentioned:
Slipknot
Raining Again, by Betoko
Sky, by Playboi Carti

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2 hr 6 min
November 06, 2023#71: Roman Yalowitz — Crowbars and Glue, Breaking The BEST [& Josh’s Heart], Tahoe’s Golden Era, Development Ethics and BTS, and Learning From a World Class Crew
Roman Yalowitz is here and he’s going to break your projects and crush your dreams, just like he did to Josh 😭.
Actually… Roman has been doing the complete opposite in Tahoe for the last 10 years! He is a prolific developer that is leading the new “Golden Era” going on in Tahoe right now. Roman, Jimmy Webb, and a handful of other world class climbers (including past guest David Fitzgerald), have been putting up some of the hardest blocks in America. And they’re just getting started!
Hear more about:
Tahoe’s latest Golden Era
What makes Tahoe Special
The Reality behind Developing (“Crowbars and Glue”)
Ethics in Developing and Gluing
What Roman learned from his World Class Crew
How Tahoe stacks up to Switzerland

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2 hr 7 min
October 30, 2023 #70: T&J — The Best Tasting Boulders, Bad/Good/Great Routesetting, “Cheating”, V16 Downgrades, You Are What You Climb, What To Do When Your Gym Setting Sucks and Past Guest Reflections [Andy Lamb]
The routesetting at your gym is the one of the main ingredients of getting you better at climbing.
Does your gym have bad, good, or great routesetting? Do you even know the difference? What do you do if your gym’s setting sucks?!

Tim and Josh also address some of the latest V16 downgrades as well as some controversy over a comment Josh made about “cheating”.

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2 hr 17 min
October 23, 2023#69: Andy Lamb — Banned by 8a.nu, Strong Siblings, ‘Accidentally’ Climbing V16s, Boards vs Outdoors, The Best Project on the West Coast, and Why Being a Pro Won’t Help
Andy Lamb has climbed multiple V16’s, flashed multiple V13’s, and placed as high as 3rd in Bouldering Nationals. But you’ve probably never heard of him because he’s not a professional climber, his Instagram is rarely updated, and his 8a scorecard is pseudonymous.
And yes, Andy and Katie Lamb are brother and sister!
Hear Andy’s unique path in climbing that is more relatable than other V16 climbers.

SHOW NOTES:
Paradox of Choice
"Most people overestimate what they can do in 1 year and underestimate what they can do in 10 years." -- Bill Gates / Andy Lamb

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2 hr 6 min
October 16, 2023#68: T&J — Soft Climbs Hard Tries, Flashing Spectre, Moonboard Pros, Old Crew vs Young Crew, 1st Try Tactics, Flashing Ethics and Past Guest Reflections [Katie Lamb]
First go best go!
Tim and Josh talk about flashing as a specific form of climbing. What it shows about the grade of a climb, what it shows about the climber, how to get better at flashing, and also the ethics behind a legitimate flash.

Listen in as Tim completely changes Josh’s mind on flashing and then find out Josh’s best tip for flashing hard that he got from past guest, Carlo Traversi.

SHOW NOTES:
Martin Keller sending V16 @ 45
Shawn and Brooke Raboutou on the Moonboard
Shawn Raboutou Flashing Spectre

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2 hr 28 min
October 09, 2023#67: Katie Lamb — V16 FFA, V16 FSA(?), Projects > Quick Ticks, Making Your Attempts Count, Visualization, Good Boulders Only, Pro-Level Tactics, and What Actually Makes Your Fingers Stronger
History has been made — Katie Lamb is officially the first woman in the world to climb V16, Box Therapy!
Katie is an absolute master of the mental game for high level climbing. She treated us with a detailed breakdown of exactly what she does. How to approach projecting, how to make each try count, and the importance of persistence.
The podcasts starts out with Katie sharing with us the vision of climbing that she loves. What has inspired her since she was young, and how she has chosen to pursue climbing now that she is the one doing the inspiring. Then we get to hear the details on her send of Box Therapy, V16. Then Katie shares about how she went from Good to Great.

SHOW NOTES:
First Ascent: The Movie (Trailer)
Will Fraker: Spotify and Instagram

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2 hr 20 min
October 02, 2023#66: T&J — “My Wife Says Your Setting Sucks”, Contradictory Training Advice / Hype, Don’t Major In The Minors, Morpho Climbs, Sessioning with “The Strong Crew”, Yosemite Testpiece’s, Doing a V8 vs Climbing V8, and Past Guest Reflections [Mike Heinstein]
Tim and Josh chat about Yosemite bouldering, gym climbing, bad setting, and the hard truth that just because you’ve climbed V8, doesn’t mean you’re a V8 climber.
Then Tim and Josh answer some of the burning questions from listeners:
When and how-to session with the local strong crew.
How to deal with all the training advice on social media that is sometimes contradictory.
How to handle with “morpho” climbs, and what to do if you are on the shorter or taller end of the spectrum.

SHOW NOTES:
Becoming a Supple Leopard

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1 hr 54 min
September 25, 2023#65: Mike Heinstein — $200M in Advice, What’s Next in Climbing Gyms, Lessons from Europe, The Best Model for Climbers, Chains vs Communities, The Value of Routesetting, Opening Your Own Gym, Learning from Snowboarding Culture and Climbing for Life
When Mike Heinstein speaks about the climbing world, we listen.
That’s because Mike is an extremely successful entrepreneur with more experience in business than perhaps anyone in climbing 🤯. Mike has always been a life long climber and now that he’s done with his previous business, Art.com, he has set his sights on the world of climbing by opening up the innovative Mosaic Boulders in Berkeley, CA.

But the best thing about Mike is that he is genuinely here to help. He freely shares all of his insights about the climbing industry, how to open your own gym, how to run your own gym, and even his email ([email protected]) in case you need more advice! This conversation was sparked from a recent trip to Europe where Mike had some epiphanies about where we might see the climbing gym industry head, and it was fascinating to say the least.

Someone like Mike is rare — deep business knowledge, a true love of climbing, and a willingness to share with others. We are so grateful we got to sit down with him and share this conversation with you all!

SHOW NOTES:
Contact Mike: [email protected]
Mosaic Boulders

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1 hr 19 min
September 18, 2023#64: Intention — When There’s No Time or Psyche, Doing THE Thing, Low Hanging Fruit, Plan A/B/C…F, Lack of Time vs Energy, Low Psyche Workouts, and Past Guest Reflections [Nathaniel Coleman]
How do you fit it all in when you are busy? How do you decide what is important and what isn’t? What if you show up feeling like crap?

This podcast is all about how to deal with the realities of a busy life while still progressing in your climbing.

Tim and Josh have different approaches because they have different lives. Tim is a pro-climber who has to travel often and struggles to have a set schedule. Josh works a lot and has a family which means his schedule is always short on free time.

But the key behind progress is the same for them both — always showing up with intention to do the things that actually get you better each time and cutting out anything that gets in the way of those sessions.

SHOW NOTES:
Katie Lamb Climbs V16
Dave MacLeod Rhapsody Endurance Training
Becoming a Supple Leopard
#28 -- Tim's Best Day

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1 hr 53 min
September 11, 2023#63: Nathaniel Coleman — Elite Mental Game, Why He’s Not Competing, Twitch Streaming, Proper Excitement Levels, Intuition vs Logical Analysis, WC Commentary, Future Goals and [of course] Kendama
Holy sh!t folks, this one was special. Nathaniel Coleman went deep on this pod in a way he hasn’t before elsewhere.

He's an Olympic Silver Medalist, a 3x National Bouldering Champion (in a row!), and he FA'd the iconic Grand Illusion, a V16. Just one of these things would cement him as one of the top climbers in our sport.

In the podcast Nathaniel shares what is actually going through his mind when he’s competing on the biggest stages, and the approach he uses when things don’t go as planned.

He also shares for the first time publicly why he isn’t competing in the upcoming Olympics, and his thoughts on whether or not competition is something he will pursue in the future.

Topics include: Nationals vs WC’s vs Olympics, the current WC season, Twitch Streaming, the “Power of Psyche”, proper excitement levels when competing, his outdoor bucket list, and so so much more!
NOTES / LINKS:
Kendama
Nathaniel's Twitch
Grand Illusion
Defying Gravity
Power of Psyche
Dry Canyon Series (Lee Majors FA + $6mm Man Proj)

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2 hr 16 min