The Testpiece Podcast

By TestpieceSports

The Testpiece Podcast episodes

June 26, 2023 #52: No Coach? No Problem — How to Self Analyze, Learn How to Answer the Question “Why?”, Using Video for Success, What your Friends Know (or DON’T)
Most of the time we don’t have a coach sitting behind us giving feedback. So what do you when you are by yourself and stuck? How do you do learn to coach yourself when no one is around?
Tim and Josh share how to use video, questions, and friends, to answer the questions “Why?” [did I fall]. Tim shows how this is one of the most important skills to develop in order to get better, forever.
They use real examples of routes and boulders they struggled on to show how they were able to progress without the help of a coach. By being their own coach!

ANNOUCMENT:

We started a Patreon! Support us HERE and unlock cool new ways to get more of what you love about The Testpiece Podcast. Your support means we can devote more time to helping us all learn how to go from Good to Great.

Definitely join the "LFG!" tier because then you get to hang out with Tim and Josh on their monthly live "Ask-Me-Anything" Zoom calls. This will be like a live podcast where they choose a topic and go deep, but the big difference is YOU will be there to interrupt and ask questions about your unique situation or anything else you've been wanting to get their take on. These recordings will never be public and will only be available to Patrons.

The first AMA will be on July 19th @ 7pm PST. Sign up on Patreon HERE. See you there!

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1 hr 54 min
June 19, 2023#51: Jamie Emerson — The ‘Sheriff’, Defining Boulders, What Elite Climbers have in Common, Subjectivity in Grading, Technique vs Smoothness, Sending After 100 Days, Training your Creativity, and Developing What’s Next
You care about climbing. I care about climbing. And so does Jamie Emerson. Because Jamie cares so much he is willing to dive into the minutiae to help us define our sport. The How and the Why behind how Jamie does this is fascinating and will hit home to all of us who love climbing so much.
Jimmy Webb jokingly called him the “Sheriff” and somehow that nickname stuck. But that one word title doesn’t even begin to scratch the surface of Jamie’s mark on the climbing world. Over the years Jamie has done it all — climbed extremely hard boulders, developed new areas, route set at an international level, and spent time with the best climbers in the world.

These experiences mean Jamie has a lot to share. Don’t miss this one.

You can find Jamie's guidebooks linked below:
RMNP Bouldering
Mount Evans Bouldering
On KAYA
Mount Evans Bouldering
Lincoln Lake Bouldering
Guanella Pass Bouldering

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2 hr 21 min
June 12, 2023 #50: The Best Climbing Gym in the World? — Japanese Setting, ‘Black’ Tape, B-Pump, and Reflections on the ‘Villain’
Is B-Pumo Ogikubo the best climbing gym is the world?
Japan has created some of the strongest climbers in the world, especially in the competition scene, and Tim wanted to know how they did it.
So Tim made the pilgrimage to Japan to see what all the chatter was about. He goes into the setting, the holds, the style, and the yakitori.

PS -- Here's the tripod Tim mentions in his Pro-Tip: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09WHLXN6N?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_N00JV2ETQ1EQWCQ68T1R

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1 hr 54 min
June 05, 2023 #49: Tristan Chen — Being the ‘Villain’, Grades in Climbing, Climbing 5.15 in Rumney, Surviving Cancer, What Pro’s are ACTUALLY Like (Over/Underrated), and ‘Hot Takes’ Galore
You know him, you hate him, Tristan Chen — the ‘Villain’ of climbing!
We’re half-joking, Tristan is only the ‘Villain’ because it makes the climbing world more fun and he has opinions that he’s not afraid to share. And make no mistake, these opinions are not just to cause problems — they are well thought through and interesting. The truth is, most high level climbers are already having these conversations about grades and abilities behind closed doors, but Tristan is willing to shine light on what’s being said behind the scenes and give his take. His ‘hot takes’! And he has a lot of them...

So tune in and listen to someone who is finally saying what we were all already thinking.

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1 hr 52 min
May 30, 2023 #48: Do or DIE — How to Perform Under Pressure in Competitions, Run-Outs, Highballs, Flashing, or ANYTIME the Stakes are High
Sometimes climbing can be intense. Maybe it’s in competition, maybe it’s being way off the deck and in serious danger, or maybe you just know it’s the last try you have because of skin, conditions, or the end of a trip coming.

Tim and Josh share how to handle these situations, and even better, how to prepare yourself for these moments through training. Don’t just hope that you will rise to the moment, use their practical tips and tricks to make sure that you are ready when these times come.

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1 hr 36 min
May 22, 2023 #47: Carlo Traversi — Becoming Great, The Hardest Moves and Grades in the World, How Having Fun Can Beat Training, Mastering Different Disciplines, The Magic of Yosemite, and What Makes Carlo’s Gym ‘The Boulder Field’ Special
Carlo Traversi (@carlodenali) is a professional climber that has mastered every discipline in climbing. 5.14+ trad, 5.15 sport, V16 boulders, USA Nation Team for over a DECADE! Carlo has done it all. On top of this, he founded one of the top gyms in the nation — The Boulder Field.
Tune in and learn how Carlo achieved all of this and how you can too.

Don’t miss this one. Tim and Josh think it’s one of the best yet!

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1 hr 54 min
May 15, 2023 #46 -- F*CK! I'm Injured
Tim and Josh dig into the topic of injuries. How to avoid them, how to work around them, how to train around them, and the mindset you need to get through them and come back stronger.
They both have had their fair share and learned a lot from them. They are often make or break moments in your career, so tune in to hear from our mistakes and the our new best practices.
Pro-Tip: Don’t get injured.

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1 hr 50 min
May 08, 2023 #45 -- Jared Roth (pusher)
Jared Roth joined Tim and Josh for an epic pod!
There was soooo much ground to cover because Jared has done it all in the climbing world. Be sure not to miss his stories about the early days in Bishop and his FA of the iconic Rastaman Vibration (stand start of Lucid Dreaming).

But Jared is more than just an OG crusher with some of the best FA’s in America — he also now owns the legendary climbing hold company Pusher. Jared gives us the real behind scenes on making holds, shaping holds, and all the nitty gritty that climbing geeks like us love. Enjoy!

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1 hr 59 min
May 01, 2023 #44 -- Your Home
Tim and Josh share their takeaways from the last interview with Connor Herson and an interview Tim did for another podcast. Then they discuss some of the drama around hold choice in the latest World Cup.

The pod ends with a listener question that focused on community in climbing. How it comes to be, how to build it, how to join one, and the cool communities that Tim and Josh have been a part of over the years.

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1 hr 31 min
April 24, 2023 #43 -- Connor Herson, Non-Traditional
Tim and Josh joke that Connor's background of traditional climbing actually makes him Non-Traditional. But this gives him a unique POV compared to others and it makes it all the more fun to hear his take on competitions, bouldering, plastic, trad, etc.
Don’t miss this pod, and definitely don’t miss Connor’s recent film released by La Sportiva — “Traditional at Heart”.

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1 hr 40 min