The Testpiece Podcast

Tim’s Strength and Conditioning Coach, Andy Tollefson, joins Tim and Josh. Andy is a climber and coach based out of SLC who is a certified Strength and Condition Specialist and graduated with a BS in Exercise Science. 

They talked about everything from injury prevention in climbing, what Tim / Josh got wrong in the “Pumping Iron” episode, and some of the cutting edge supplements that Andy thinks may become a mainstay for elite climbers. This episode is packed with tips that you can instantly apply. 

Stay tuned for a part 2, because we all agreed that we barely scratched the surface of things we wanted to cover.

You can find more about Andy on Instagram @coachandytollefson.

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Tim and Josh discuss weightlifting and climbing. What is weightlifting vs calisthenics vs prehab?  Is it necessary? Who might benefit? Who might not?

Josh’s recommendation: Hangboarding + ‘Perfect’ Pull-ups + Pistols or Jumping is all 95% of people need. Frequency and quality over quantity. Do these often, and do them right. Sets and reps aren’t as important as intention and quality.

Tim’s recommendation: Muscle-Ups + Toes-to-Bar + Hangboarding. Heavy weightlifting can teach you how to dial up limit intensity.

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Tim and Josh talk about how they use supplements before, during, and after climbing to improve performance and recovery.

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Tim and Josh get into the minutiae of footwork and shoe choice.

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Tim and Josh reflect on what stood out as the biggest themes in the 2022 climbing year and then they make predictions for what they think will be the biggest themes in 2023.

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Tim did it! He sent his longtime project — a link up of 5 highball testpieces in Bishop. All in 1 day. Footprints (V9), Ambrosia (V11), Too Big To Flail (V10), This Side of Paradise (V10), and Evilution Direct (V11). Epic. 

In this pod we go behind the scenes and learn about the reality of what it took to put this together. Tim doesn’t hold anything back and talks about what it was like to risk his life for this linkup.

Thanks to Black Diamond for supporting Tim on this goal. Keep an eye out for the upcoming video from Bobby McGee and Brennan Robinson.

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Tim and Josh tackle a few listener questions with the main focus being on "What is ‘Comp Style’?"

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Bishop is one of Tim and Josh's favorite places on Earth. Tim was there while recording the pod so they decided to go deep on what makes Bishop one of the best places to climb in the world.

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Tim shares his experience at Lead Nationals. Spoiler alert -- he placed well! Then Tim and Josh talk about what Adventure means in climbing and why it’s so important. This leads them into The Meta of climbing and how to excel in it, or anything, over the long term.

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Tim and Josh are joined by Maxim Zolotukhin, a legendary climber and setter that's been at it for over two decades. They discuss aesthetics, setting, competitions in this wide ranging conversation about all things climbing.

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