The Testpiece Podcast

By TestpieceSports

The Testpiece Podcast episodes

November 02, 2022 #23 -- Preparing for Nationals
Nationals is coming up on November 9th. This is an important comp for Tim that will likely set the tone for his following year. Tim and Josh dive into the training Tim is doing leading up to it and how he's handling the pressure.

Mentioned in the podcast: The Art of Learning by Joshua Waitzkin

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1 hr 22 min
October 26, 2022 #22 -- Modern Climbing Gyms
Josh and Tim use a recent article from Climbing Magazine to talk about modern climbing gyms. Josh goes into a few rants about how great climbing gyms have become and argues against getting stuck in nostalgia. Tim keeps it positive and adds insight as a competitive climber.
Link to the article "Opinion: Modern Gyms are Failing Outdoor Climbers: https://www.climbing.com/places/opinion-modern-gyms-fail-outdoor-climbers/

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1 hr 27 min
October 19, 2022 #21 -- Moonboard Deep Dive
Josh and Tim go deep on the Moonboard!
PS — The Jerry Moffat book mentioned in the pod is “Revelations”. Go read it!

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1 hr 17 min
October 16, 2022 #20 -- Balancing Outdoors, Indoors, and Boards
Josh and Tim start off by reflecting on the previous pod with Ethan. Tim also talks a bit about the Red and his recent experience at Rocktoberfest.
Then they get to the main event. A great listener question on how to balance your time climbing between the outdoors, the indoors, and boards.

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1 hr 31 min
October 07, 2022 #19 -- Ethan Pringle, The Jaw/Jah
Ethan Pringle hopped on the pod with Tim and Josh!
Ethan’s been at the cutting edge of climbing for decades. He shares what climbing was like when he started and how it has shaped his style and psyche. Don't miss this one.

Check our Instagram, @testpiececlimbing, for pictures of Josh's feature on a JCCA poster, and Ethan on La Hostia.

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1 hr 39 min
September 29, 2022 #18 -- Reframing Volume + Skin Q&A
Josh's pro-tip revolves around the idea of what is an appropriate amount of volume for climbers which leads Tim and Josh into a deeper discussion than expected. Then they transition into a listener question regarding best practices for skin care.

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1 hr 19 min
September 22, 2022 #17 -- Success at NACS
Tim and Josh start off by talking about their limited experience with trad climbing.

Then they dive into Tim's success at his latest comp, a NACS sport comp in Gilbert, AZ ,where he placed second. Can Tim keep up this hot streak going into Nationals?

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1 hr 39 min
September 16, 2022 #16 -- Etiquette, Grades, and Q&A
Tim and Josh start off with some rants about climbing etiquette and grades. Then they tackle a great listener question.

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1 hr 17 min
September 11, 2022 #15 -- Board Climbing as a Training Tool
Tim and Josh go deep on board climbing and the different ways it fits into their climbing routines.

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1 hr 29 min
September 02, 2022 #14 -- Quantitative vs Qualitative
Josh and Tim start off by reminiscing about setting and what's actually going on behind the scenes.

Then they dive into a topic Dave MacLeod raised in a recent YouTube video "Can you quantify climbing technique?". PS -- What do you think was the error Dave made when he was climbing at the 3 minute mark?

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1 hr 52 min