The Testpiece Podcast

By TestpieceSports

The Testpiece Podcast episodes

April 24, 2023 #43 -- Connor Herson, Non-Traditional
Tim and Josh joke that Connor's background of traditional climbing actually makes him Non-Traditional. But this gives him a unique POV compared to others and it makes it all the more fun to hear his take on competitions, bouldering, plastic, trad, etc.
Don’t miss this pod, and definitely don’t miss Connor’s recent film released by La Sportiva — “Traditional at Heart”.

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1 hr 40 min
April 17, 2023 #42 -- Crimp Types and the Why Behind Each One
Tim and Josh actually do love crimps. Or at least they like them…
In this episode they go into each of the different crimp types (open, half, full) and the pro’s and con’s of each one. Then they talk about how and why to utilize each type depending on the hold and movement required.

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1 hr 24 min
April 10, 2023 #41 -- Sloper Love
Tim and Josh express their love of slopers and deconstruct the techniques around how to best use them.

Slopers can stump a lot of newer, intermediate, and even advanced climbers, but they are the key to unlocking next level climbing technique.

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1 hr 19 min
April 03, 2023 #40 -- Putting the Lessons Together, Effort
Tim and Josh go into the application of Balance and Mechanics: Effort.

Tim shows us how Effort is something that is trainable all by itself.

Effort is that “jen ne se quois” that MUST be understood and developed in order to become a great climber.

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1 hr 31 min
March 28, 2023 #39 -- The 2nd Lesson, Mechanics
Tim and Josh go into the next thing Tim addresses with his clients: Climbing Mechanics.

They show the process behind how you can deconstruct hard “stopper” moves to make them as easy as possible. This is fundamental for leveling up your climbing.

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1 hr 27 min
March 20, 2023 #38 -- The 1st Lesson, Balance
Balance on the wall is one of the first things Tim goes over with all of his coaching clients. In this episode Tim and Josh go over what balance means in climbing, how to find better positions when you feel ‘off balance’, and how to execute the next move once that position is obtained.

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1 hr 19 min
March 06, 2023 #37 -- Sport Climbing Tips, Tricks, & Tactics
Tim and Josh go deep on how to sport climb at a high level. They address breathing on the wall, understanding resting, dealing with fear, how to do hard bouldery moves while tied in, and lots more.

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1 hr 48 min
February 27, 2023 #36 -- Grades Matter
Are grades subjective? What exactly do grades represent, and what don’t they represent? How do climbs get their grades anyways? What is the hardest move ever done and how are hard moves related to the actual grade of the climb?
Tim and Josh go deep on grades because, let’s face it, grades matter and climbing needs them.

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1 hr 52 min
February 21, 2023 #35 -- Bodyweight Optimization and Cutting Edge Tech
Josh brings Coach Andy (@coachandytollefson on Instagram) back on to talk about figuring out your optimal bodyweight for climbing and how weightlifting may or may not fit into obtaining that weight. Then they go on to discuss some cutting edge technologies that could be used to help you train more and recover faster including BPC-157, Red Light Therapy, and using a “Cool Mitt”.
WARNING: This pod goes into some subjects that can be sensitive for some listeners because they include discussions around weight.

Links discussed in the show:
Signs you may be Overtraining: https://www.hss.edu/article_overtraining.asp#:~:text=Overtraining%20syndrome%20occurs%20when%20an,succeed%20in%20your%20chosen%20sport.
BPC-157: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/30915550/, https://bengreenfieldlife.com/article/supplements-articles/how-to-use-bpc-157/
Red Light Therapy: https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1002/pri.1606
Cool Mitt: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p_sSjMJIi0A

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2 hr 13 min
February 14, 2023 #34 -- Pursuing Mastery with Tim & Coach Andy
Tim and his S&C Coach, Andy, discuss the pursuit of mastery in climbing. What that means and what that looks like day to day.

You can find Andy on Instagram @coachandytollefson.

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1 hr 22 min