En-route from Vilnius to Riga, an extraordinary inflexion point on my Insight Vacations’ guided journey of the Baltics was a whistle-stop visit to the Hill of Crosses. It is a unique place in terms of its breath-taking scale and blood-stained history, with over 200,000 crosses currently adorning the hill. It is statement Christianity on an epic scale, which gained immense significance for Lithuanian believers during the long and oppressive Soviet era, a statement of resistance to the totalitarian regime.
Following independence, the hill took on added stature as a symbol of the country’s unshakeable faith, prompting visits and crosses to be placed by Popes John Paul II and Benedict XVI. I’ve never seen anything quite like it. Dubbed the “Paris of the North and “the Baltic Berlin,” reinvented Riga is Latvia’s hip little capital. Small, green and beautiful, Riga is big on architectural styles, from art deco to rococo, while stamping its mark as art and food destination. Riga’s handsome and historic Hanseatic Old Town is the locus for city exploration, which is where my loquacious Insight Vacations’ guide, Julia, came in handy, to unpack the secrets.
The city walls, warehouses, houses and churches here have been painstakingly renovated since the fall of communism – Riga feels like a giant, breathing museum. Julia shared a plethora of fascinating insights with us, like the building that was built for Soviet troops and awash with bugging devices. It turned out to be the lovely hotel we were staying in – thankfully, swept of all bugs! Riga is beloved for its head-swirling trove of Art Nouveau buildings – 800 of them, at last count. Alberta Iela, just north of the Esplanade and Kronvalda Park, is the best single street for viewing these treasures. Mikhail Eisenstein, father of the film director Sergei, designed several of the most striking buildings.
The biggest lingerer of Soviet statement architecture is one of Stalin’s “birthday cakes”, nicknamed the Seven Sisters. It’s a carbon copy of the structures still standing in the likes of Warsaw and Moscow. But the city’s Soviet gloom has been largely eviscerated by the peppy sense of Baltic optimism. The city was first founded by the Crusaders and Teutonic Knights in the 13th century. In addition to the Soviets, Riga has also been ruled by the Poles, Germans and Swedes, and all have left their mark. Dipping into Riga is a like a journey into the ravages and vagaries of European history on a very intimate level.
For a crash course in recent Latvian history, our group headed to the Museum of the Occupation With clear English explanations, it is a thoughtfully designed and well-curated historical museums. Its comprehensiveness is extraordinary, spanning everything from Latvian partisan Nazi and Soviet uniforms to propaganda posters, from chess sets carved from scrap and wood in the gulags to heartbreaking, frantically scribbled notes hurled from trains by deportees to Siberia. Among the Old Town’s cabinet of wonders, the museum is a must. Just across from the Occupation Museum, is the city’s colossal medieval cathedral, begun in 1211 by Albert von Buxhoeveden, the German missionary-warrior who sailed north to convert the Livonian heathens.
Our group were most enthralled by building directly opposite, the House of the Blackheads. Flanking the southern side of the square. Built to house bachelor Hanseatic traders and sailors, it derives its name from their patron saint, Mauritius, traditionally depicted as an armed Moor. As Julia explained, the Soviet’ obliterated this majestic Gothic-Dutch Renaissance building. Its Teutonic architecture was deemed by them to be too decadent, but after independence, it was one of the first structures to be rebuilt. Being very close to Rigans’ hearts, the work was financed by individual donations. We also doted over a cluster of merchant houses called the Three Brothers, all clad in miniature windows to mitigate the...