Generously studded with a wealth of cultural and leisure attractions, as you’d expect from any self-respecting big city, San Diego’s crown of temptations is overlaid with that infectious SoCal spirit of carefree informality. It’s been a few years since I was last in town and I was awestruck by how the Waterfront district is in a state of grand-scale transformation. Beautiful new pedestrian-centric and bike-friendly promenades wrap their way around the waterfront, bracketed by meticulously maintained gardens, while a forest of ultra-contemporary glass buildings backdrop proceedings. The USS Midway continues to hold high court, swooned over for its rich military history and the 29 restored aircraft parked up on its deck.
After savouring the world’s most visited ship museum, I tootled along the bustling waterfront to the equally enthralling Maritime Museum. From sailing ships to submarines, this is a nautical headrush that underscores San Diego’s proud legacy as a commercial seaport. The collection’s towering jewel is the Star of India, which was built in 1863 and made 21 trips around the world in the late 1800s – including various voyages to New Zealand, carrying immigrants from England. Saved from the scrap yard and painstakingly restored, the windjammer is the oldest active iron sailing ship in the world. The recently constructed San Salvador is a detailed historic replica of the original ship first sailed into San Diego Bay by explorer Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo back in 1542.
As an incurable plane-spotter, I was transfixed by the roll call of aircraft touching down and taking off from San Diego Airport. This waterfront vantage point is a lip-smacker for av-fans. The airport is just ten minutes from downtown – true to San Diego’s oh-so-effortless urban spirit. Feeling peckish? You can’t beat a pulled pork sandwich from Carnitas’ Snack Shack. From the waterfront, I struck out down Broadway into the heart of the city, passing some of the old theatre dames like the Spreckels Theatre and the Balboa Theatre.
They’re housed in the city’s historic district, better known as the Gaslamp Quarter, a 16-block blockbuster of charming architecture, independent shopping and jam-packed with exciting eateries and bars. Feeling suitably envious that I had so little time to graze from its greatness, here’s a few fleeting tips. Stuff yourself stupid on Spanish tapas at Café Sevilla, enjoy Greek fusion at Meze, Volcano Rabbit is the place to head for divine street tacos and wash it all down at Tivoli, the oldest bar in town. As a history-hound, I also staked out San Diego’s oldest wooden house, which is home to the Gaslamp’s Historical Foundation. This prefab saltbox-style house was built in Maine in 1850 and shipped around Cape Horn before being assembled in town.
The gilded lungs of the city were soon calling. Balboa Park is not just a natural wonderland on the edge of the city centre, but the USA’s largest urban cultural park, spanning 1200 acres, beckons as an architectural and cultural masterpiece as well. Established in 1868, it’s the grandeur of the architectural confections and follies that first had me drawing deep breaths. Had I been spirited away to Seville? A riot of Spanish Renaissance Colonial-style architecture is the prevailing theme. The show-stoppers include the ornately domed California Tower with its trademark blue and yellow tiles, the 1500-foot Cabrillo Bridge and the soothing redwood-lath Botanical Building nestled around a sprawling lily pond.
One of the largest wood lath structures in the world, it’s remarkable to encounter a vast open-air conservatory, thronging with thousands of exotic plants, built with no glass. Then there’s Alcazar Garden, for the ultimate Seville-like experience. You may feel like royalty here as you rest on the benches by the artfully tiled fountains, feasting your eyes on the luscious landscaping. Inspired by the gardens surrounding the Alcazar Castle, its...