The Struggle Climbing Show

Tom and Ryan explore how training should be adjusted in the 4-6 weeks before send-season, what exercises to cut as the season arrives, an often-overlooked red point tactic, and behind-the-scenes stories from when Adam Ondra was in the cellar. Plus, Patron questions! 

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This episode is coming to you at zero cost thanks to these wonderful sponsors:

KAYA Climb: 50+ bouldering guidebooks right on your phone, whether you have signal or not! Plus GPS-pinned boulders and over 300k community-uploaded beta videos. Download a free version, and get 20% the PRO version HERE

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Michaela Kiersch has been crushing for decades. She’s the first woman to climb both 5.15a and V14 (9a+ / 8B+). The 5.15 was La Rambla, and as Michaela shares today, she doesn't feel like she has yet hit her limit in sport grades. Other notable sport sends for Michaela include the 14d/9a ascent of the Chris Sharma line Dreamcatcher in Squamish, a first female ascent of another classic Sharma route, Necessary Evil, and pretty much everything at the Red River Gorge, including the 14c FFA of The Golden Ticket. On the blocks she’s got a few V14 (8B+) sends to her name, including Tigris Sit and New Base Line, both in Magic Wood. And what’s perhaps more impressive than her ticklist is the fact that she’s done pretty much all of it while being a full-time student and youth coach. If you want to get psyched on what we’re all capable of accomplishing with busy lives and limited time to train… you’re in the right place. 

Dr. Tyler Nelson dives deep into all things finger strength training

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Tyler is bringing cutting edge science to the world of training for climbing and, in the process, he is blowing up myths of training that we’ve long thought to be true and helping climbers, from pros to everyday climbers, identify exactly what types of training will take their climbing performance to new heights. In graduate school Tyler completed a dual doctorate/masters degree in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading and rehabilitation. He is also a certified strength and conditioning specialist through the NSCA and teaches conferences worldwide on a host of topics. Get ready to get strong!

Topics:

• The difference between strength training protocols and hypertrophy protocols, and why many climbers are getting it wrong

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Get $10 off a Tindeq with code C4HP at https://tindeq.com/?ref=530

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THANKS TO THE SPONSORS WHO SUPPORT THE STRUGGLE:

KAYA Climb: Log your boulder sends and access 35+ GPS guidebooks and 300k community-uploaded beta videos. Download for free, and get 20% the PRO version HERE

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Coach Eric Horst continues the Road to 13a series with me as we explore my summer training (and what I did wrong), and then gets specific on how to level up my endurance and tactics for the hardest route I've ever taken on.

This BONUS episode is brought to you by Patrons and Subscribers of the show. If you're getting value from this podcast it would mean a lot to me if you'd consider coming aboard. For as little as $5 per month you get full access to Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, extended and ad-free episodes, and other cool perks. Thanks for supporting me if you can! www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

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The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. 

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As a climber, James is incredibly accomplished and well-rounded, with impressive big wall sends that include freeing El Cap’s Freerider in a day along with loads of other big wall sends in the valley including the FA of Final Frontier, a Grade V 13b in the Valley. And while James is perhaps most experienced and known for his work on big walls, he has pushed himself into other disciplines with the goal of sending V10 boulders and 5.14 sport, the former of which he has done, and the latter of which he is zeroing in on. Beyond climbing, James is a prolific writer and photographer. He served as Senior Associate Editor of Climbing Magazine for 30 issues and has contributed to countless other climbing outlets, from Rock and Ice to Outside Mag to the Alpinist. This guy has some of the absolute best stories from his dirtbag days living in his Saturn and the caves of Yosemite, climbing with some of the biggest names in our sport, and bringing curiosity and stoke to all that he takes on. 

Emil is an incredibly strong boulderer with a particular talent for compression and sloper problems, along with harnessing dynamic movement. He has sent loads of the world’s toughest blocks, flashing up to V12 and redpointing up to V15, which he accomplished on the Dave Graham test piece, Story of Two Worlds. He documented that process beautifully on his YouTube Channel – which has over 100k subscribers and is growing fast. He has a real talent for bringing us viewers into his process, riding the rollercoaster of emotions from beginning to end. He also creates fantastic training content, most famous of which is probably the No Hang Protocol video he put out a couple years ago and went viral. Emil really exemplifies the intangible traits that make elite climbers who they are – an incredible work ethic, unstoppable passion, and seemingly unlimited psych to dig deeper and try harder than even seems possible.

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and @natashabarnes

If you'd like to work with Dr. Barnes, check out her various programs and coaching options at www.natashabarnesrehab.com

Nina is a world famous climber, perhaps best known for her cutting edge high balls which include heady and impressive first female ascents of the stunning Buttermilk test pieces Too Big to Flail, a 50 foot V10, Evilution Direct, a 45 foot V11, and Ambrosia, a 50 ft V11.  She is incredibly well rounded, with big wall ascents including the FFA of Grade VI Father Time, a 2,000 foot 5.13b in Yosemite, and on sport, Nina recently sent the nails hard 5.14b Rumney classic China Beach. Nina is a mental coach, board member of the American Alpine Club, and is passionate about her education and training in inter- and intra- personal communication… and she brings it ALL to this conversation.

Part 2 explores energy systems training, proper fueling for a send go, short-person tactics, managing fear, getting off-route on a free solo, and so much more! 

Nina is a world famous climber, perhaps best known for her cutting edge high balls which include heady and impressive first female ascents of the stunning Buttermilk test pieces Too Big to Flail, a 50 foot V10, Evilution Direct, a 45 foot V11, and Ambrosia, a 50 ft V11.  She is incredibly well rounded, with big wall ascents including the FFA of Grade VI Father Time, a 2,000 foot 5.13b in Yosemite, and on sport, Nina recently sent the nails hard 5.14b Rumney classic China Beach. Nina is a mental coach, board member of the American Alpine Club, and is passionate about her education and training in inter- and intra- personal communication… and she brings it ALL to this conversation.

Part 1 focuses on a personal and vulnerable exploration into relationships - romantic and otherwise - and how they’ve impacted Nina’s climbing, career, and life. Her perspective and insights are sure to help the rest of us as we explore our own relationships, belay-tionships, and egos... in our never-ending quest to become better climbers, partners, and humans.