Circle Up!

In this episode, Kyra is joined by returning guest Dan Beall to tackle some big questions: What are tactics, really? How can you best support your romantic partner while climbing? And how do you adjust expectations when health or life complications shift your plans?

They bring up common mistakes to avoid both indoors and out while talking about tactics and both share how they focus when they find themselves thinking too much. They swap opinions on what makes the best climbing gyms, with Kyra making the case for why a little grunge adds character. They also open up about how their unique health situations have shaped their expectations and approach to climbing.

When the conversation shifts to climbing trips they talk about how to navigate group dynamics, the challenge of balancing priorities when climbing partners are at different levels, and how romantic partners can best support each other on and off the wall. Plus, Kyra shares what it’s been like to start something new (and a little scary): her YouTube channel and relates it to Dan's dive into making a private coaching business.

In this episode, Kyra sits down with Campbell Harrison, Australian Olympic climber and passionate advocate for athlete representation, to explore a wide range of topics. They discuss the impacts of social media on their careers and mental health, and how it can be especially challenging following the Olympic explosion in popularity. They talk about the outdoor industry as a whole, and how climbing stars may be outgrowing the scope of the climbing industry in years to come. The conversation then delves into the challenge of advocating for topics that are close to the chest and putting what is best for the group above what is best for yourself. throughout the episode, Kyra and Campbell discuss the all-too-familiar struggle of fighting the inner voice that creates guilt around taking necessary rest days, indulging in small joys, or stepping back from the grind to focus on holistic well-being.

**They discuss drinking alcohol and taking time off drinking, so if this is a sensitive topic for you, skip 27:00-32:45.

In this episode, Kyra and Allison dive into their lesser known backgrounds as lead climbers and how it has shaped their skills as primarily boulderers. They share their favorite exercises and drills for training endurance and discuss why reflecting on your goals can help you modify your training to stay on track.

They explore the challenges of climbing well while pumped, overcoming fear to push your limits, and the value of rest and focused attempts over grinding through fatigue. Whether you’re aiming to train for a specific goal or just want ideas on how to switch up your training, this episode has plenty of actionable takeaways for climbers of all levels!

In this Episode, Kyra Condie and Dan Beall went into the recent top posts from r/climbharder and talked about some of the topics and themes they saw reoccur in recent hot posts. They talk about how, if you want to, to avoid "life as a mediocre climber" and what small changes and tweaks you can make to your attitude and everyday schedule to improve your climbing. Then, they break down the art of projecting—what it truly means to push your limits and challenge yourself on a climb. Plus, they debate whether anyone could climb V15 in perfect conditions, if Kyra has what it takes to dunk a basketball, and which training exercises are criminally underrated (or totally overrated).

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Interested in coaching with Dan?

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In this episode, Kyra and Allison dive into listener questions from their Patreon, covering everything from building finger strength and improving crimp endurance to valuable lessons learned from their youth competition days. The conversation meanders through a variety of related topics, including when to consult a PT—whether for an injury or strength training, current trends in climbing science, and how climbing parents can stay engaged and advocate for safe, inclusive environments within youth teams.

In this episode Kyra brings on her parents once again to talk about what they do to support her at competitions and how they supported her dream of becoming a professional climber. Currently being in Santiago at the Panamerican Championships, they talk about specifics around supporting Kyra while at an event. Later, Tom, Kyra’s dad provides some insight into his theory of providing guardrails but casting a wide net of possibilities for your kid, while Cathy, Kyra’s mom, shares some of her own upbringing that led to her unwavering support and belief in what her kids were capable of.

In this episode, Kyra Condie and guest Dan Beall use Dan's experience with overcoming catastrophic injuries to give some advice when facing adversity in sport. They talk about Dan's shoulder dislocation and accompanying nerve damage that left him without a clear path to recovery and how he dealt with that, both mentally and physically. They also explore the nuances of confidence versus mastery, and how a delicate balance of the two can lead to an enjoyable experience for some (not all) on highball boulders, as well as how to confront fear in a safe and productive way. They finish by talking about the most common training plan mistakes Dan sees in his coaching and provide some tips to maximize your learning potential during each climbing session.

This week, Kyra and Allison get real about the struggle to balance their climbing obsession with the reality of needing rest days. The talk about the challenges of having a never-ending season both in competitions and with outdoor climbing (something is always "in-season") and how hard it can be to time things correctly between varying schedules and time windows. They chat about trying to stay in peak shape through that never-ending season and share some of their own experiments with training schedules to figure out what works for them and their goals. Finally, they take a fun trip down memory lane, back to the PanAmerican Youth Championships where Kyra and Allison first met, and Allison got to compete as a Canadian citizen for the first time.

In this episode, Kyra recounts her past two trips to Rocklands, South Africa for climbing trips and how she approached her third one differently than the first two. She remembers some lessons learned from her first trip in 2016, what she did wrong (like switching birth control right before leaving), what she would have done differently, and how that changed her whole approach to climbing outside in general. Sometimes, finding what motivates you is the most important.

In this episode of the Beta & Banter series Kyra and Allison chat about how to deal with a self deprecating climbing partner, when (and how) to avoid an ex at the climbing gym, and how does all that advice carry over to climbing with your romantic partner. other questions included what their opinions are of the recent age limit change in IFSC and how an unfunded athlete does the World Cup series. Tune in to hear all of their advice, beta, and banter!